Marie, you might want to take a look at the historical data on your location for the past 5 years. I went to Weather Underground and pulled up Lexington MA for January 1st 2008 to January 1st 2010 as an example. It seems that the minimum t*emperature during that time was 'zero'. Not sure if that is considered zone 5 or 6. I am in zone 6a according to the latest zone map and my sense is that is right to me, but I do notice that Lexington, Bedford area sometimes has temperatures that are lower than mine when I notice them on the w*eather forecast. When you click on the link, scroll down and you'll see every day's weather for the past two years. You can do longer than that period too. it would be time well spent to assure yourself whether you are zone 5 or zone 6. Naturally, your property could be a micro climate in your town too, I suppose. The only way to confirm that would be with a minimum/maximum thermometer that you track the t*emperature yourself every day for a couple of years. Even though I believe I am zone 6a, I almost always try to get plants that are hardy to at least zone 5. For an expensive tree, I'm sure you thought you were buying hardy to zone 5. Since you bought it at Stonegate and it was expensive, I would call them and confirm with them that it is hardy to zone 5, according to them. Ask about a warranty. If you are aware of other r*eliable sources that report it not hardy where you live, I would ask if they would take it back. Arnold Arboretum could help you answer that question too. I know it's the last thing you want to do, but I can only imagine how much you paid for it. I've been pricing them. If that is not possible. I would ask them to come out and evaluate your 'site' and figure out where there might be a micro climate where it would have the best chance of surviving. I would explain to them that you don't want to be worrying about it. I bought a Holly at Broken Arrow last year that was supposed to be hardy to zone 6. I discussed at length with them and asked for advice about where to p*lant it. I put it where they directed me to and it was dead as a doornail this spring. One phone call and they refunded me my money without a problem. An inexpensive shrub though, not an expensive tree. Here is a link that might be useful: Weather History Lexington Mass Jan 2008 to Jan 2010

Unfortunately, that tree has some serious issues and your garden center people are very likely right......I seriously doubt it is salvageable. However, unless it is something immediately obvious, it takes more than a cursory glance at some photos to determine the exact cause. You really DO need to take samples into your extension office or a path lab for a proper diagnosis as some JM issues will preclude replanting with another maple (as well as various other plants) in that location. A couple of other notes: 1) you never want to fertilize a plant that is stressed or suffering from disease issues....they can't metabolize the fertilizer properly and it only serves to further the stress. 2) JM buds form in late summer/fall. They should be very obvious once the leaves fall as little pointy buds at each growth node. They will develop as winter passes and eventually emerge as leaves in spring but exact timing is very individual tree-dependent. 3) If you do anything now, all that should be involved is to remove any dead wood you see - it will appear as pale gray compared to the dark red of healthy tissue - and clear off the stubs (always prune back to a branch junction - never leave stubs, as they are an invitation to both insects and disease problems) and water as needed. NO fertilizer! I understand your wanting to save the tree but IME, JM's that look like this are no longer viable.

Covering it is not something I would bother with. A) It's butt ugly to do so; B) it's a pain in the butt to do so; C) it's too late in the season to bother with.....leaves will be dropping soon enough anyway; and finally D) the tree will grow out of it in a year or two and you can probably compensate adequately to avoid the scorch just by more frequent deep waterings (as long as soil drains well).

Yardvaark, Thank you for the advise. The Bee Balm does indeed get large, so I'll push it back roughly 3' feet from the path, and have the ground cover (White Nancy) probably 6" from the path. I think I'll try to plant them irregularly around the bird bath. Iaceyvail, Yeah not sure what I was thinking with the weed barrier. When starting out, the concept not having to worry too much about weeds was very alluring. Definitely proved to be pointless. And yes! I'm looking for mainly insect attracing plants. I have milkweed in the backyard that did a wonderful job as habitat for monarch caterpillars.