croton and schefflera
and_now_its_en2
8 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoand_now_its_en2
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WANTED: wanted: gardenia radicans variegated
Comments (5)Amazin . . . Thank you for responding ! If you cut branches close to base of plant, mabe 1/2 of plant, the plant will recover without damage. See my web-site and choose whatever you like. Let me know where you are so we can pack a box with caution for cold weather ? Logos...See MoreDo organic fertilizers add salts?
Comments (1)Many feel or claim that organic fertilizer will not burn, but burn injury (dehydration/plasmolysis) is caused by a high level of ions in soil solution. There is no difference if those ions arrive via a chemical (granular fertilizers) or organic vehicle (fish emulsion, bloodmeal, e.g.) Tissue damage or the inability to absorb water is caused by the hygroscopic (sucking moisture) action of any "thirsty" chemicals - no matter that they are derived from an organic source. If anyone has found a (commercial) fertilizer that won't burn, it won't feed. The same property that makes elemental nutrients available - high solubility - also makes them likely to "burn". In some cases, with organic fertilizers, the damage from excessive amounts of fertilizer in soil solutions may be delayed by cultural conditions, and if the soluble ingredient which causes the excess is not flushed from soils, burn is almost assured. In our mind, we should fix the fact that any excess of nitrogen beyond plant needs will cause some degree of burn. Most organic products can cause even rapid burn if used in excess. Dried blood, an extremely popular source of N is so soluble that it causes the same reaction as a chemical fertilizer salt. The same is true, to a somewhat lesser degree, of fish emulsions. In your scenario of using 1/2 strength applications of F.E. at every watering - it can be problematic. Since nitrification is dependent on soil microorganisms, F.E. concentrations can easily build up in soils during periods of biota inactivity (cool temps, too wet or dry conditions, pH problems, etc.). When cultural conditions return to 'favorable' soil biota can convert excessive amounts of N very quickly & burn plants - often weeks after the applications. The usual grower response - "Well, I guess my plants just couldn't stand up to the heat. I should have watered them more." ;o) Al...See Moremore pics cuz Ana asked!
Comments (15)Katkin - thanks for the name of the croton. I looked it up and it seems to be common. I don't know why everyone who sees it has never seen it before and why I can't find some to buy! Oh, well..someday. Irma - that croton was one of the only plants worth saving when I moved here (rest of the stuff around was half dead orange crotons, schefflera - all got ripped out). So I care for it as best I can - cut a few interior stems when I think of it and have fed it. I think it should be cut back a bit now but I'm a little nervous to do it. I love it and was lucky to find the same variety so I have some more in my planter boxes. Randy - come on over to the west coast sometime and I'll share what I've learned over the years! Thanks for the compliment. Hester...See MoreOrnamentals! Caution: lots of pics
Comments (41)Melissa, love the pictures! Your yard is maturing so beautifully. I too, love the headboard idea and the gaura and blue basil are amazing. Yes, our yards are bad now, but with spring we'll be happily planning and planting again. By the way, I love the purple ruellia with the firebush. Great color contrast. Sun worshiper, isn't the farfugium a great plant? I have tried every which way I know to propagate them. I have spread seed, I have chilled the seed in the fridge for weeks as I saw somewhere, I tried from leaves like begonias. I also tried to secure the flower stems to the ground to see if that distal little leaf would form roots. Nothing. I do have a 3-4 year old plant that looks like it has a baby- but the baby has been the same size all year. I think maybe it came up from the roots? Mine do get bigger. Almost like they get more than one head, but it takes a couple of years. Maybe that's why they're so expensive. I buy them when I see them though, because I rarely see them. I plan on getting more because they are so easy and always look good, especially in cool weather. Let me know if you figure out a way to propagate, and I will post if I do too. Anyone out there know? Anna...See MoreGreenLarry
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRhamel (aka teengardener1888)
8 years agoand_now_its_en2
8 years agoRhamel (aka teengardener1888)
8 years agoGreenLarry
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8 years agoSans2014
8 years agoand_now_its_en2
8 years agoSans2014
8 years agoSans2014
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8 years agoSans2014
8 years agoSans2014
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8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoand_now_its_en2
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolaticauda
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agolaticauda
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)