Placed near a fan would help insure that it dried. Do not have to worry about the plant not drying out here in Florida! It has been warm and dry, and sunny recently, and your plant should not mind a bath - which is a good idea Soak the plant up, and see if you can lift it. I would not get it out of the basket as the roots are all over it and you will likely break them off :( Soak it, see if you can gently pick it up - and use plastic covered wire to prop it up to the wire hangers for the pot... Beautiful flowers, indeed!

Thanks everyone for the advice! Here is more information: The shower is finished. The main wall is the American Olean 2 x 4 glass tile. (Its called charcoal - www.lowes.com/pd_355357-74035-DG7124BJHC1P_4294730930%2B4294965034 ) The other walls are the floor tile which is a 12x24 beige color. It doesn't have any pizazz but it looks fine. Originally I was going to have some of the blue mosaic be part of the shower but had the idea nixed by both the tile stores saleslady and my contractor as being to busy.... I will take more pictures tomorrow evening after the painters have finished and post. Again, my original idea was to have this mosaic "Majestic Ocean 1x1" really shine on the vanity wall...I still could have it on the vanity wall but it would only show 2 inches on the sides and lower edge. The top would have about 10 inches show since the light fixtures would be mounted above the mirrors.

No, I meant to say "glass guru" the chain, not a big-box store--there is actually a chain called "glass guru" which supposedly has a method of drilling two small holes (top right/bottom left) in outside of pane, drying out the condensation between the double-panes, then resealing the window, etc. Guess no one has heard of "glass guru". Replacing my window--will probably need custom bow window made--will run around $5K for the size. Glass guru says I can replace individual panes for around $70 each. At this price I could replace all 15 panels for $1100 or so. Still much cheaper than new window--wood frame is in excellent shape, no rot, just foggy panes. Has anyone ever replaced single double-panes (i.e. baseball accident, etc.)?

I have spent some money and some time to resurface my traditional office desk which already has a layer of stain and poly. It has few scratched and peeling, so I need to sand it down and redo the surface. I followed all instructions and still having bubble on top of the newly applied polyurethane. Finally, I created my own method. - Clean up and remove all dust on the surface of the wood, in my case, it is the table top of my office desk. - Apply oil based polyurethane with stain color with brush; I used the cheap $1.25 bristle brush from Lowe's. I chose polyurethane with stain color in it. You can choose different color at Lowe’s and it also has gloss and satin (semi gloss) choices. Apply a thick layer on the surface of the wood or on my office desk in my case. There should be many bubbles on the top. Some suggest using heat gun while applying so the bubbles pop and disappear, I have not tried that because I don’t have a heat gun. I ignore the bubbles there for now. Then let it dry thoroughly after few hours or next day. - Sand the surface with very fine 300 or higher sand paper with an electric hand sander. Sand out all bubbles on surface as much as possible. It will scratch the entire surface, don't worry. But do not sand too deep, we still want the polyurethane and the stain on the surface. It is very difficult to remove all trace of bubbles, I stopped when most bubbles are not noticeable. When sanding with electric sander, make sure you sand fully the surface, do not sand with an angle off the wood and do not create track or ditch on the wood. - Clean up and remove all dust on the surface. I use web cloth, and then dry paper towel. Let it dry before next step. - Now mix the poly (with build-in stain color) with mineral spirit in about 5 to 1 ratio. Apply the mixture on the surface again. Do not uses brush this time. Use a paper towel and fold it into a square 2"x2" shape. Then wrap it with a fine cloth, I use silk cloth in my case. Use it to apply the mixture on top of the wood surface. The mixture must be thin enough so that you can swipe across surface without resistance. Add more mineral spirit if necessary. Follow the wood grain and "sail" along the surface with the cloth. Make sure the mixture cover entire surface. - Now let it dry. The surface should be shiny again. You could repeat above step if necessary until you have an almost smooth wood surface or table top. The stain in the poly will create darker or lighter color on the wood surface, that is ok and that is nice. - You are not done. Now mix the oil based fast drying polyurethane with mineral spirit and use new cloth and paper towel to apply one more layer on the wood. Again, make sure the mixture is thin enough and your cloth is fully absolve with the mixture. Apply the mixture to entire surface, you don't need to follow wood grain direction this time. You make sure the entire surface is wet. After it is dry, you can apply 2nd layer until the wood surface is smooth enough for you. Notice that this fast drying poly will deepen the color of your surface. The more layer you apply, the deeper the color. It takes a few days :-)