Doreen - see the response in your same post here. Wish you luck with your "baby".

how green are the maters on the broken stem? You can take the stem and put it in very moist potting soil and see if the plant continues to ripen the maters. Generally a damaged plant will expend every last ounce of it's available energy trying to ripen the existing fruit. In fact one 'trick' to get green fruit to ripen at the end of the season is to damage the plant to get it to hurry up. This damage is generally using a shovel to hack off part of it's root system, but damage is damage ;-) Let the plant ripen them as far as possible and then let them finish ripening on their own. I wouldn't suggest leaving the maters outside in the sun after they are removed from the plant though. Bring them inside and place in a paper bag with a sliced up apple to ripen them. Apples produce ethylene gas naturally. Ethylene is what commercial growers use to ripen tomatos harvested green for shipping.

added hummus & manure mixture, peat moss, hay, oragnic compost, 2 bags of old leaves, dried grass. While it is a slim possibility that the 38 degree night may have had enough wind to freeze the plants, I'd agree with Dave that it is most likely the mix in the bed. It depends on the proportions you used of all the above additives but there is easily way too much N. 4-6 months from now it will likely be a great bed. Right now it is way too hot and will burn most things planted in it. Leafy greens like lettuce may tolerate it but not much else. You can salvage the bed sooner by removing 1/3 of it and set it aside to compost and use later. Replace the removed stuff with good quality soil (dirt) and mix it in well. Then try again. Good luck. Dave

The blueing/dark color on the leaves indicate to me that the plants are not getting/uptaking nutrients adequately . In my opinion 9C (=48F) was not and is not cold for tomato plants PROVDED you hardened them off , for several days, prior to planting. The second issue is the soil temperatures. In order for the plants to be able to uptake nutrients, a minimum soil temperature is required . 50 -55F ? ( = 12 C) should be ok. Again, in the hardening off process the roots also are introduced to cool temperatures gradually, so when they are placed in cool soil ( 10 -12C) they won't get a shock.. MY Recent Experience: On 4/8, 9, 10/15 I planted bunch of tomato plants, some with protection some withoiut. In the following week we had lows going down to 38F ( =3.5 C) .few nights. I have seen no ill effects. BUT before planting out I did check the soil temperature. It average around 52F. So far our average lows have been 42-43F. My plants are normal, though they are growing very slowly. I have seen buds on several of them. I think your plants should rebound. I would water them with lukewarm water (~ 26-27C). When I want to water mine, i fill watering cans and let the warm up in the sun for several hours. Warmer water will raise soil temperature and help dissolve the nutrients better for the plants uptake. JMO Sey