thanks. pic #2 and #3 are actually of same grass in same area but lighting affected color. Both grasses send runners out underground very similar to bermuda grass that I experienced where I used to live but doesn't seem AS aggressive as bermuda grass but you can get long strands with "tentacles" on them as you dig into the soil and dig them up. The runners I've seen are usually short but I've seen as long as perhaps 6". Does that give further insight? The description for orchardgrass didn't make mention of runners so I wanted to provide this additional info.

The KBG probably won't choke out the fescue, but it will fill in bare spots. However, KBG spreads via rhizomes rather than stolons. Rhizomes should be below ground. You may want to take some of the weedy grass (including some roots) to your extension service to your extension service to get an accurate ID. I've seen blades of grass from the same plant get identified as two different grasses from pictures. It can be very difficult to ID grass from pictures. Many grass seed mixes have fescue and KBG in them. I think some types of fescue may mix better with KBG, but K31 grows much faster and has much wider blades, so I think a mixture of KBG and K31 fescue tends to look somewhat patchy. Where in WA are you? You may be better off seeding in the fall. It may not matter as much if you're in the Seattle area, since it rains so often there, but if you're inland where it gets hot and dry in the summer, a fall seeding will give the grass more time to establish before the hot dry weather hits.

I agree the first weed looks like bermuda. That would not surprise me in your area. It is probably fairly weak in the shade and that far north, but during a summer like this one, it would take advantage of any weak spots in the yard. Since you have both bermuda and crabgrass, you must get plenty of sunlight - hard to see on the cloudy day. Still, cloudy day pix are 10x better than sunny day pix, so good for you. Weeds are normally only a problem in weak turf, mowed too low, with too frequent a watering schedule (or rainfall). Nutgrass is a swamp grass. Is yours growing in an area that gets a lot of standing water or runoff? If not then it is possible you have an underground bucket that tends to hold water longer right there. Perhaps it was scooped out by a rototiller or some other device. Get your soil softened and that should clear up. Softening should not be done with an aerator. The results will not be what you are looking for. For the past year I have been really happy using clear shampoo at a rate of at least 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. Spray that down, irrigate a full inch, and repeat in 2 weeks. Your soil should then be soft when you water it or when it rains and gradually become hard again as the days go on when you do not water. At this time of year you should be backed off to watering once every 7-10 days. By the time Thanksgiving rolls around you should be watering monthly. The really infrequent watering usually will take out the nutgrass. What kind of grass do you want to have? Here are your choices: Bermuda: takes a lot of work to keep it really nice. Needs heavy feeding monthly, mowing 2x per week, and it turns brown in the winter. It will not grow with any density if it does not get very full sunlight. Spreads fast enough to be considered a pest. Fescue: much less work to manage than bermuda. Let it grow 3-4 inches high (highest setting or nearly). Fertilize 3x per year with chemical ferts or anytime with organics. Grows from individual plants which do not spread, so if it is thin, or gets thin from drought or insects, it will remain thin until something fills in (weeds usually). Usually it needs to be overseeded every fall. Fescue is the only grass on this list that will grow in the shade. Your shade may be too much for even fescue but you can give it a try. The others will die out. Kentucky bluegrass: also much less work than bermuda. Feed 3x per year with chemical ferts or any time with organic. Mow at 3 inches. KBG will spread to fill in weak areas. KBG is often used along with fescue just in case the fescue runs into problems. KBG turns brown in the winter although it does not have to if you want to join a band of lawn nuts who have eked out a plan that keeps KBG green all year. Perennial rye: can be a great lawn but is seldom used east of the Cascade Mountains. Mow high. It does not spread so you will likely have to overseed every fall. Fertilize 3x per year. If all you want is green, then I would let the current situation go. You might even mix in some Dutch white clover. But if you want one of the regular turf grasses as a monoculture, pick one and we can help you get on track. Now is the time to act. DO NOT WAIT UNTIL SPRING to seed grass.

Can't tell you the name of the weed but any product with the ingredient Triclopyr will take care of it pretty quick. That nutsedge is going to be the problem.