Susan's NXR oven safety valve is broken. What's the part number?
Maddy Reynolds
8 years ago
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Maddy Reynolds
8 years agoMaddy Reynolds
8 years agoRelated Discussions
NXR parts?
Comments (8)Stacy: I replied to some of your questions in olahego's thread, but for the sake of anybody who doesn't find that thread, here is what I know about the reignitor/ignitor units: The OEM reignitor was a Tytronics unit. When I checked on prices and availability a couple of years ago when I was stove shopping, one of the local parts warehouses here had a couple of them in stock as they were used on other stoves. The warehouse now tells me that they will have to order it at a cost of $140. The price might (or might not) be the result of Tytronics selling its reignitor line of business to a German based company called Elektro-Gerätebau GmbH in Oberderdingen which, in English, uses the unfortunate-sounding moniker "E.G.O. Hightec." The $40 price mentioned above may be an Amazon price for generic reignitor replacement for Viking gas ranges. IIRC, Viking also used Tytronics 0-4 ignitor/reignitor units as original equipment. Since the generic reiginitors use the same connectors, those generic replacements may work in the NXR, at least in theory. I Haven't been able to track down any info on the interoperablity, yet, though a quick google search turned up some current Amazon prices for under $30 for the units. Before replacing the reignitor, though, I would follow the above suggestions to clean out the burners and fiddle with the adjustment screws in shafts of the burner knobs to make sure the flame is adjusted correctly. I would start with a thorough cleaning of the burner assemblies. When I've had the symptoms you describe, I've found some crud, or boil-over foam and water in the burner ports and also found that that the burner parts were not seated tightly together. It is worth taking a paper clip (or pipe cleaner if you can find any small enough) and ream out all the ports. Some washing may be required. Then also blow them out with compressed air. The store-bought cans of electronics duster work great for this because you can get the red straw-nozzles into the the burner ports. Also, I blow out the vertical brass feed pipes that connect to the burner assembly just in case there is something in there.. So far, that process has always fixed the problem for me. If you get them all cleaned out, and still have too much clicking I would check the flame adjustment as suggested above. (If you had found there is clicking on just one burner, I would say to check the bezel position around the knob to make sure the knob is not sticking.) IIRC, you've had your NXR since 2009, so it may be time to check flame adjustment if you still get clicking after cleaning and reassembling the burners. (FWIW, my NXR's burners are a dark gray and seem to be cast brass instead of cast iron.) If you do all of the above and still have the problem, the next thing I would check next is the burner ignitors themselves. They are like sparkplugs in a car. Periodic cleaning (and blowing off) may help. Also, like spark plugs, they wear out over time, When the wiring starts to go, it may no longer register heat rapidly and that will trigger the reignitor circuits when they are being fired up after a complete cool down. (As I understand it, electrical resistance changes with the heat level and, as things wear out, they will not be sending the correct resistance signal to the reignition module.) An ignitor will be much less expensive to start with than the whole reignitor module. A stove repair person may have the information and tools to check the resistance, but it might be less expensive to just buy one ignitor and see if that improves things. I would look at replacing the reignitor module only if the stove keeps clicking on the burner with the replaced ignitor. This post was edited by JWVideo on Thu, Jan 9, 14 at 16:19...See More$2000 budget for range - GE Cafe or NXR?
Comments (18)Thoughts on placement of NXR burners? Fine. Never had a Viking, so cannot comment on that. Most pro-style stoves are the same, however. Front to back the burners are roughly 11 inches on center nine inches from the bullnose of the knobs. . In comparison, the measurement was about 9 inches on center, front to back, on my former GE DF stove. How far frm the edge of the range are the burners? Which edge? The side? From center, left burner to left edge is 6.5 inches. Same for right burners. Same approximate distance as on my former GE Profile, too. What is the problem here. Are you using 24-inch diameter canning kettles or commercial size stockpots? Clicking: In the oven? Hunh? Did you read Susan's (aka, DirtyBloomer's) post about replacing the oven glow-bar ignitor? The oven uses a glow bar, not a sparking (clicking) igntor. The glow bar gets really reallly hot, kind of like a small electric coil burner. There is nothing to click. Should be the same with your Viking, AFAIK. The glow bar should not click. Unless it is failing and shorting out. The oven may click as it heats, but that is structural metal responding to increasing heat. Your Viking should work the same way. AFAIK, Viking ovens used glow-bars not sparking ignitors as on the stovetop burners. As for for the oven cycling on an off to maintain temperature, there is nothing in the NXR oven that uses any kind of sparking iginitor. As with every other modern gas oven that I have seen, you definitely hear the gas ignite when the burner reignites to maintain temps. It is a "whoosh" and "hiss" sound, not a click. Seems to me that, if you are getting clicking sounds from the oven in your Viking, then either your glow-bar is broken or something is shorting out intermittently (aka, sparking) I bought the DRGB from Costco. The NRG has been discontinued, at least in North America.) 304 versus 430 stainless: does it look different? Well, I do not see it. Never heard of anybody complaining about it. Never occurred to anybody so far that the the 304 panels would look grossly different. Usually, the paranoid worry that the 430 parts of the stove will rust out in front of your very eyes if someone is breathing moist air anywhere in the room where the stove is located. That worry was pretty thoroughly discussed in one of the long NXR threads which you've probably already read. Does the 430 clash with the 304 stainless? I've never seen it. I've never heard of anybody complaining about it. But, maybe you are a much more elite and perspicacious person than me, and the differing steels will look as different to you as a mauve plaid and a metallic chrome yellow? I suppose, over time, there might be some subtle differences. The 430 is harder than the 304, so the 430 oven door will be less likely to incur and show scratches than the 304 cooktop. This post was edited by JWVideo on Sun, Feb 3, 13 at 12:59...See MorePremier vs NXR
Comments (16)Thanks everybody for input. I have a tough dilemma to replace old Caloric served reliably f/some 40 years . Actually, it has a second oven attached to the top of the unit. I had 2 ovens w/1 stove!!!! Cry out loud! I want basic. I need a range to be able to COOK/can/dry stuff in the oven at 140F, not to look at it or show off to guests. I want a stove to serve me, not other way around. One of the mechanics said to have no dreams finding anything close to that reliability now-days. I called service centers of both NXR& Premier to make sure they are available in my area and also to survey repair reports. None reported having a lot of calls for both. Maybe just not many people own them? JWVideo, especial thanks to you for details about parts!!! I think my hubby will be the mechanics! He can fix & repair unthinkable -- just give him parts! Will buy NXR from Costco only. Premier from Gerhards appliances, maybe Lowes. Less likely Best Buy. NXR looks more solid. Weights 320 lb. Premier -- 183. Talk about heat insulation? Parts, eyes, from China -- both! Leaning towards NXR as of now. I wish my stove not to be near fridge -- would go for AR30-2WB-2B.... Hey hubby, ready for complete kitchen remodeling? 36" commercial! I've got to learn to use search engine f/this forum. Placed NXR -- got out nothing....See Morenxr range, 30"; drgb3001, just ordered
Comments (39)To staceyneil; Sorry, I've been off-line for a few days, but I see you're getting good advice from others that have also helped me here in the past. What JW said very well about one mfg product's being sold, I can't say for sure but he certainly seem to know the story well. When I quoted $40, it was for teh exact blue box re-ignitor unit, on e-bay when I last looked in Oct'ish. I just did a search for it using BOTH the RI120e-4 number that's on the Tytronics OEM unit, and also the part number (also on that blue OEM box - i snapped a pic of mine upon delivery to be sure I know what to get later if needed), and that # is PA020041. That PA number appears to be the same OEM unit used on some Viking stoves. I found a $60 buy it now and a $110 bid price on another. AS JW or another said, if you also search for either of those numbers, or # PA020047, on Amazon or even Google, you'll find alternatives much cheaper than your indicated $140 est. I THINK but cannot say at 100% certainty as I haven't tried it, that the PA...47 unit will work, but the spark cycle/speed is a tad slower than the OEM blue unit. Taht said, I can see no reason it won't work, and even the old OEM blue units you can likely still find some at various internet sites at cheaper than $140. It may take some time, but I bet you can find it. Black88, thanks so much for teh info on how to get to the (spark) electroids under teh top, make sense. FWIW, I did find replacment individual burner electroids on-line, VERY reasonable, at only $21 apiece, but the shipping was $15. Maybe you can check there if you order your module AND a spare electroid, perhap a better deal... reach them via e-mail at sales the atsign guaranteedparts dot com As for teh rest of you with oven temps... Our normal cooking is around 350-425, and I noticed right at the start, at lower temps, the control varies, so I got 2 fairly good oven thermoters and placed on a rack in about the center of teh oven. After some pre-heat, and sometimes fairly extended run times, our oven out of the box was about 15-20 degrees on teh LOW side (real temp compared to teh markings on the painted-on dial). SO I took to the adjustment. Now, I cannot recall if I turned the set-screw left or right for my adjustiment, but I do remember researching on You Tube and/or other Googled sites, and just an FYI, the adjustment on gas vs electric is very different. I dount you should be afraid to try, but do realize, you probably want to tweak the adjustment screw NO MORE than a QUARTER of a turn each time. A little goes a long way. THe process, just as a poster above suggested, was EXACTLY as mine did. The flat-head screw way in the center of teh shaft is almost (to my bad old eyes) invisible, but with a long, thin (almost jewler's screwdriver), I gently kept placing and "feeling" until I felt the blade bottom inot the screw head, and then slowly turned. If I recall (this was right before Thanksgiving), I think I tried/readjusted 3 times, 3rd time being the charm. Again, we use mostly 350, or 425, and ours is about as dead-on as I can imagine. It worked thru everyday family cooking since Oct install, thru a great Thanksgiving and Christmas cooking event for a house-full. So far, very happy with the unit, even moreso now that (thanks to user above) I know I can get to change the spark electroid on the burners if need be, easily, even tho it means pulling the unit out a bit. Cheers all... If I find a cheap source for any of teh parts, I'll update, but do try the site above or call them at 514 685 5202...See Morebarryv_gw
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8 years agoMaddy Reynolds
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