zucchini as winter squash?
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- 8 years ago
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help with kiddy pool planters!
Comments (1)Cutting the bottoms out would essentially turn them into raised beds. This would definitely allow the roots to grow deeper given the soil beneath the pool is not too compacted. My only concern with using kiddie pools for gardens is, what type of plastic are they made of? Is it food grade?...See MoreGarden Full of Bugs. Overall cure?
Comments (29)Pest management is complex, if you want to learn, a good place to start is here: Integrated Pest Management This lecture is presented in two parts. Each part is 90-minutes in length. Recorded in Sacramento County in California's Sacramento Valley, this lecture is by Mary Louise Flint, Ph.D., Director, IPM Education and Publications, UC Statewide IPM Project and Extension Entomologist & Cooperative Extension Specialist. Education: B.S. Plant Science, University of California, Davis Ph.D. Entomology, University of California, Berkeley Appointment: 100% Cooperative Extension Research Interests: Integrated pest management of landscape, agricultural and garden pests; biological control of arthropod pests; alternatives to pesticides; adoption of alternative practices by practitioners; innovative delivery of pest management information. Topics discussed in the Integrated Pest Management Lecture: * IPM references and resources * Preventing pest problems * Natural common enemies * Making less toxic pesticide choices * Controlling aphids, scales, caterpillars, coddling moths, tree borers, snails and slugs, and lawn insects. You can watch the programs now online: Just make sure you have Real Player installed or download it free. Integrated Pest Management Part1 90 minutes Integrated Pest Management Part 2 90 minutes You'll want to bookmark the following link to Professor Flint's Lab Research on: Controlling Pests in Gardens and Landscapes: Vegetables and Melons I promise you'll learn one or two things to put in your gardening bag of pest management arsenals. ;)...See MoreFertilzer selection
Comments (6)Along with a soil test, observe the plants. I often get a soil test that shows my nutrients are very high due to the organic matter I add to the soil, yet I will usually get signs of nitrogen deficiency in my corn. When signs of deficiency start, I will side dress everything with some 30-10 and that does the trick. While different plants may prefer nitrogen/phosphate in a slightly different ratio for best growth, I wouldn't buy 10 different mixes to get everyone their favority ratio. Just get one fertilizer, usually higher in nitrogen than the other nutrients as that is usually the most limiting factor. The other nutrients will then either be sufficient or in some excess, but won't hurt the growth. Overloading the phosphate or potash can contribute to shortages of other nutrients that are sufficient in the soil but get "locked up" by having very high levels of other nutrients. I don't mean to be contradictory here, mild excess=no problem, extremely high excess=potential problems. I like having a high component of nitrogen because it is the most likely to be lost from the soil and used by the plants in the highest quantity. The others don't move as easily in the soil and are used in lesser amounts, so a completely balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10 can leave you with way too much P and K if you supply enough to meet the nitrogen needs, or can leave you short of nitrogen if you only supply enough to meet the P and K needs. Start with the soil test, fertilize as recommended, then watch the plants and use additional fertilizer if they show signs of shortage. Sometimes the levels of nutrients aren't the reason things don't grow like crazy. Weather, soil conditions, moisture levels, heat levels, and competition from weeds or other plants can all affect performance regardless of having optimum fertility....See Moreget these little @#$%s out of my garden
Comments (2)I have heard of the flour thing I think. For squash vine borers, for next year, plant your zukes on plastic or weed barrier. I have used a variety of materials, even a cheap roll of vinyl upholstery. Lay it down, bury the edges, make an X and plant your zuke in the middle. The borers come up out of the ground from their eggs or whatever and they cant get to the vines with the barrier. This year I bought a cheap thin black plastic barrier film from walmart that had teensy holes for water/air to get through. The fruit stays clean too and watering is easy and lasts longer. I also grow my gourds and melon on plastic. If water pools, I just punch a hole in the low spot to drain it. tomato diseases- mulch mulch mulch to keep soil from splashing the plants. once its there, theres pretty much no cure. also water them regularly to avoid strss. I bury a pot, can or 2 liter bottle next to the plant when I plant it and water thru this daily if no rain. goes right to the roots, no splashes no evaporation. cuke beetles. arrghh. even with chemicals like sevin, once they were around my melons would get bacterial wilt every time. I never tried row covers though, for 2 reasons. 1 year I row covered my tomatoe to protect from a late frost. after a couple days when I removed the row covers flea beetles had eaten the plants to nubbins. I am afraid of trapping stuff under them. and 2, I doubt my ability to hand polinate. Have you tried insecticidal soap? I had some success with it, although I cant say I was thrilled. Also, even though you have these pests, are they doing significant damage? For instance, I have a few potatoe bugs taking a few bites of my beans and melons, but its not any problem for the plants. maybe the toads or whatever are keeping it in check. I also have a "trap plot". this is simply my salad garden freom spring, I let the radishes, lettuce grow and bolt, the bugs can eat as much as they like there. If all else fails, you have all winter to read up on controls for next year!...See More- 8 years ago
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