We redid flooring in house built in 80s -- concrete foundation was the surface that carpet and linoleum was laid on originally--no tile even in bathrooms. We did tile in kitchen and new carpet once and then a bigger remodel in 2008--and changed all flooring to either same larger format sq 18" or 20" tiles or laid new carpet... there were some areas that were problems because the foundation was not level-- the original builder didn't care about it because he was not installing anything that needed a very smooth finish---carpet and vinyl linoleum are very forgiving. Porcelein tiles aren't--and the larger the tile, the less the forgiving. MY contractor was a good tile guy for some things but he did not check for areas with significant slope/irregularity--and I didn't know enough then to ask for it. He should have poured leveling compound or used the liner in several areas--one in bathroom hall and one in area of kitchen especially. He wound up having to grind down one spot in the hall because he just couldn't add enough mortar base to level the floor-- even after he did there were some "joins" where there were corners sticking up--you couldn't grind those down w/o causing cracks or flaws in the tile... so many people are going to the larger format tiles and most don't know that the floor below has to be very level to make a quality install...same with walls in bathrooms for larger format tiles... maybe that might be factor in the width of the planks being installed but I would bet that is more the installer not being accustomed to tight joins and just doing it "his" way... He should have givien you a sample board with the same grout he will use on the install before he laid any of them...

If you are not sure, find a certified tile inspector (google) in your state and pay him to inspect the tile and give you a report. I suspect that the inspector will find issues. Take the report to the contractor and insist that he fix the issues. If the contractor doesn't repair, then file a complaint with your state contractor licensing agency (the Registry of Contractors in our state) who can force the contractor to fix it or suspend his license (and then you can also file a claim with the state agency to get money to repair). You can also file a dispute with your credit card company if you paid by credit card. I just went through the process in my state after a contractor installed a large format wood look tile. It cost me $300 for the first inspection report and then $300 for the inspector to come back out when the agency representative came to the house. There were other issues such as appliances not fitting so that they were removeable. The agency agreed with the certified tile inspector and the contractor ended up removing all the tile (although my concrete is now pretty beat up from being jackhammered to get the tile out) ... but it was still better than living with a terrible tile job. The credit card company had also given me a full refund on my credit card so I was in a pretty good position (if he had fixed my floor somehow, then I could have deducted my costs anyway). You just need to do a good job on your write-up and make sure you have expert opinion (which is why you get a tile inspector). I was lucky enough to accidently call the most respected inspector in the state. If you tell the contractor tactfully that you are going to go through this process before you do it, then maybe he will just fix the issues and save you both time, grief, and money. By the way, the state agency representative that came out took out a credit card and any areas that had more lippage than a credit card were found to be faulty.

Hi there, I'm a S.F. bay area tile contractor for the past 23 years and now I'm slowly remodeling my second house. I totally "get" these issues with tiled countertops. I thought I made the perfect choice on my last house with porcelain 6x6 with epoxy grout, but not so. The new epoxy grout is easier to use than the stuff from long ago, but it's still difficult to get it to turn out just right. I overwashed my counter a bit too much and the epoxy didn't seal as it should have. I always had dirt issues with those joints and when it came time to sell I got the magic cleaning answer from my realtor. Mix liquid Clorox with powdered Tide that has bleach in it, leave it on the joints a half hour and scrub with a toothbrush. It really worked! I would take a look at Customs Prism grout, which has just come back on the market. This is a grout where they've substituted the sand for glass. You end up with a very dense and tight grout joint that seems to repel dirt very well. So far, I've used it on fireplace hearths, which have got to be the second dirtiest place in a house. I still seal with Miracle brand 511 Impregnator (solvent based). I haven't seen how Prism holds up on a counter because it seems like everyone has switched to slabs. Just be aware if you're doing it yourself, that Prism grout mixes up a lot differently than normal sand based grout. It won't mix at first and you have to let it slake for quite awhile.

Those are really nice. FYI - longer boards need flatter floors and generally thicker layer of bonding to get them to be smooth and flush with each other. It takes an experienced tilesetter. Tip: after having our own wood-look porcelain installed, I recommend using a darker shade of grout than you think you need. The more noticeable grout is, the more it betrays the illusion.