Actually, good chance the wood DID dry out. As it dries it contracts, which would explain the cracking tile. One way or the other, there's movement due to moisture getting to the framing, whether it's from being wet and drying, or after drying out, it's now getting wet again. Either way, it never should've been covered up wet. You don't know how long it was wet, and how much damage has been done top the wood. Sometimes, there's more damage than can be seen while it's wet. No real way to tell for sure without opening up the wall, but then again, it's certainly a moisture/ movement problem involving the framing, and the only way to solve that is to pull it all apart and redo it.

Hi, Michael. As a design firm we have never specified this product, but whenever we consider using specialty products we always provide the builder/installer with the installation guide from the manufacturer. It may seem obvious but we think you should confirm that the installer followed the guide below. Our experience has been that "handymen" may not take this extra step, but instead just assume they know how to install something. Lastly, the product has to be mounted within a certain time frame else you risk it curing sooner than you wish which would lead to some of the problems you are experiencing, i.e., cracks. Good luck. -AS

per NWFA rules; Wall Line Layout Choose a starting wall according to the most aesthetically or architecturally important elements in the room, taking into consideration fireplaces, doors, cabinets and transitions, as well as the squareness of the room. The starting wall will often be the longest unbroken wall in the room. Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, allowing 3⁄4” expansion space between the starting wall and the edge of the first strip or plank run. As a general rule, a 3⁄4” expansion space must be left around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions. Random-width plank is laid out with alternating courses varying by widths. Start with the widest board, then the next width, etc., and repeat the pattern. Are you installing rift & qtr? *By its nature, wood can shrink and expand relative to the surrounding humidity. The way the annual rings run through the board determines the direction of movement. Plain Sawn will move across the width of the board creating gaps and other problems. Rift and Quarter sawn movement is restricted to the thickness of the board and movement is vertical so the boards are not moving against each other and stay tight. This dimensional stability of each board makes it the best option for radiant heated floors & wide plank flooring. The direction of expansion and contraction in the various board configurations is shown below. Note the end grain patterns and how movement corresponds to the grain direction. *Allegheny Mt. If installing solid floor it is also recommended that it is glued and nailed.

Full disclosure -- my contractor was my neighbor for 10 years, at my previous home and took on my renovation, including looking at houses with me, after my husband died from brain cancer at age 60. So, before I purchased my house, he, and an engineer friend of us, looked over everything in my basement, foundation, attic, roof, etc. to make sure I wasn't buying a money pit. They didn't charge me for looking at houses I was considering. He also let me manage the crew, buy my own fixtures, use my cabinetmaker (who had built my kitchens in two new builds) so that he didn't have to charge me for as much of his time nor for markup on the fixtures and cabinets. He also had his guys do the repairs for the house I sold, when the buyers asked for a few things. I am very fortunate to have a neighbor like that --and, that's another reason why I didn't bother him until he showed up!