Looks like Horseweed. Here is a link that might be useful: Horseweed

Same here! This is my first "real" year gardening, and I'm about to give up. Outside of vegetables (and my wall of mg) none of the ws annuals made it. I have one lil petunia that keeps trying too bloom, and it just started a week or two ago. There was one other, cant remember the name right now that put up one bloom then keeled over. My sunflowers (the mamoths) range from 1ft tall to 6ft tall, only 3 out of like 24 are 6ft tall, making for a very uneven sunflower house. My cukes aren't growing, they just finally had a small growth spurt this weekend, and some mole or ground hog decide to dig a huge tunnel under my cuke tunnel!! My pole beans are just starting to grow. No zukes showing yet, only 2 summer squashes. My toms aren't ripening, I thought they were just starting, some were going yellow, but today they're brown mush. My Yellow pear tom stopped growing and went backwards, it only sits 3-4ft tall. I've gotten about 10 toms from that. Gave up on the broccili. It's weird, we got warm weather early this year (been above 70 since end of April, more like above 80, into 90's w/ 100+ heat indexes!) I would've thought things would've grown early w/ the head start and the heat lovers would be going nuts. But it's like everything is just starting to grow, in AUGUST!! My cocks comb is just starting out, well I have one that's 2ft tall and hasn't bloomed, but a few others have (at 4 in tall!) I bought a bunch of young perrenials this spring, they have done NOTHING! Haven't grown a bit!. 1 out of 6 Calla Lily bulbs came up, no blooms from that yet either. The only good things have been my daylilies. All the ones I planted last year gave me, and still are giving me a great show, even the majority of the ones I bought this spring gave me a nice show. And the lovely morning glory foilage that is finally covering my ugly wooden retaining wall, just wish it had more blooms to go w/ the foilage. If I wanted all green I would've planted Ivy! So I guess I should chalk it all up to the weather? I just assumed it was me. Ehh...I still blame my crappy soil!

Yes, thx river and spring areas arevsafest for water quality. But Gunnera are not that fussy. I've seen many Gunnera doing quite well around ponds in our wet (= rain flushing) PNW area. I've also grown G. tinctoria in the ground in average soil with no bog. But even here in our moist environment during the summer the huge leaves on my 8-9' teenage plant would lower each afternoon towards the ground. A the plant looked water stressed each summer afternoon in a partial shade location. A larger 11 to 12' plant would thus edge burn before I got home from work to water! When we kayak Lake Washington the Gunnera growing there (mostly G. manicata), in yards boardering the water, keep their leaf turgor and have no leaf edge burn. Landlocked and wanting that effect more secure I decided that the next one I grew it would have a kiddy pool or other significant backup water source buried under it. Our is Gunnera bog pit ground water is not connected to the slow rain flushing fish pond. Our bog pit more rapidly drains surface and near subsurface water that a pond. The top 1' (20%) flushes because is only lined below. I did the perc test to make sure. Also a second 2' x 2' deep soil connected water outlet is to Canna / Hedychium side to help ensure that the surface ground water drains over time. The point of the test is to determine best hydrology balance and give simple low effort hydrology control if needed to balance it. If the bog pit proves too wet over the summer I will dig on down hill side to lower the burried liner there. If it needs different adjustment in wet versus dry seasons a gate divider can be slid into place there (eg 2' x 1' board). The attached Japanese Iris bog is similarily being tested and adjusted this year The Iris are about 12" tall now. Gunnera growth is in action now. It started with green Gunnera "leaf hands" reaching for the sun rays. When a volcano like mound of leaf mulch lifted upwards a couple feet I removed the leaves and saw them. Gotta love this monster species for drama alone! Below is the newly planted Japanese Iris Bog just before ground freeze late last fall. It connects to the Gunnera hydrology plan. The moist Iris zone is ~2.5' deep and average 3'+ wide. The tench shaped bog was again lined in bottom 1.5' with a pool like plastic liner. The bog has 50% compost. the Hydrangea paniculata 'Fire & Ice' root pit above to the left of the Iris is not lined. Some of the Siberian and Japanese Iris planted here are shown below (bed order is taller Siberian Iris nearer the Canna). The colors contrast with our warm color Cannas, which are up to 8' tall. These are some of the varieties both in that bog area and seen behind them in beds running along the sides and back of the 15' long fish pond. Our most stunning canna is perhaps Tropicanna = Durban = Phason. The tallest a German? hybrid variegated leaf Canna 'Stuttgart'. Canna 'Cleopatra' a Chimera plant living together in leaves and flowers with it's miracle mutant partner is shorter than the Arian giant, is also pretty hard to ignore. Hosting some valuable plant collection favorires, there's understandably some careful hydrology design to this test area. The Iris Bog liner does not connect pooled bottom water directly to the Canna / Hedychium area. The subsurface water drops into the deeper Gunnera Pit. If the average moisture balance is too dry in any area I can dig the edges down 12" and add an edge liner runner. The overall test starts as best guess, but is easily adjustible. If is stays too wet and goes too stagnant a hole(s) can be punched into the bottom (slowly adding them) as needed. If the Canna / Hedychium area stays too wet, I can seperate it from the Gunnera as much ad needed by digging in a slotted liner or adding in a season adjustable gate. As the moist Canna / Hedychium test zone hydrology is adjusted then proves out, I can accordingly lower the plant density and use excess plants to populate new 2nd generation moisture beds. That's the plan anyway. (My professional background is science research with microbes, plants and environmentally related tops. I love doing fun home tests like this! When a test "fails" one quickly gain solution ideas. And it can often be adjusted to soon prove out. If not adjust the plants varieties or specices tested.) Our front yard is white different. The photo below show it currently during Spring warm up phase. The Red Crown Imperial Fritillaria near the turn in the walkway are not open yet. But their skunky scent contrasts the ~115 Hyacinths, 1/3 of which are open here already. The right central photo drift of Daffodils are Mt Hood currently doing their amazing magic trick of morphing from a smaller yellow/white flower (foreground) into to large full creamy white (background). These were planted at different times last fall and will synchronize by next year. It shifts visually in late Spring-Summer-Fall to a hydrangea floral backdrop with perennial Liatris and Japanese Wildflower upper bed meadow like runners. They are in light pink and white tones to add a moongarden night element. And they actively sway with breezes adding motion to the sound of two timber bamboo behind them added for movement and sound effects (we get a lot of breeze activity through here). And yellow dwarf fragrant Daylily and red Crocosmia flairs along the driveway to drive our visitors, family and hummingbirds wild. Our main design theme is actually NO LAWN GRASS cutting and be glad for it visually. Was easy to tak my wife into it. I do all the msin design and garden work. She cuts the grass.

Sammers510: Let us help you down that Rabbit Hole by sharing our addiction Funny you should mention that. Itis best not go down that rabbit hole neurologically by gastronomically sampling these these belladonna toxin plants, even if tempted! Correct dosing is hard to figure snd varies by how the variety and how plant was grown. By the way the eye drops that dialate your eyes at the ophthalmologist for a couple of hours are made from similar toxin plants. Thevtoxin temporarily paralyzes muscles. One poor soul was watering a Brug in a greenhouse and saw a little water droplet roll down a leaf and go into their eye. The eye stayed dilated for a couple days! If too much is ingested reports say that the toxins work up from the extremities slowly knocking out muscle functions as they go. If this effect reaches one's core one does not recover from a temporarily paralyzed heart! We have 3 cats, Brugmansis drop leaves inside houses. I watched carefully and our cats were mot at all interested in tbe bittet smelling leaves. Like tomatoes they have their oen characteristic smell and msybe surface oil or chemicals. For instance our Nicotiana (flowering tobacco), which is in the same plant family, has a sticky leaf surfaces that kills our outdoir whiteflies and knats here. It is also the nicotine source used to make greenhouse insecticide and a MILDER producing cousin is used to commercially buzz, addict and gain $ worldwide. As HS kids we were told that we could make our friends turn green and throw up if we put in in their socks so it got between their toes. (Hum ... still wondering and kinda tempting to see if it this is true ; - ) I've already had 'Little Angel' for 4 yr now and grew from seed what looks similar to 'Frosty Pink Xself'. The * marked plants below I've had before when I hadn't saved them by cuttings or inside. My largest Brugs were left in tubs and brought into a lighted shed w 55 F nights and also brought into an unheated garage that is staying 40 F. If left in tubs and not growing let them dry out only adding a very small amount of water if large branches start to droop. If they are too most at all the roots and stems will rot. My garage housed plants had mot been watered. They dropped all of their leaves but look great. My lighted shed ones need a little water. But if I let them get enough to grow, spider mites become a real problem inside afgecting other plants too. So I'm letting them become very dry. On cuttings I stored the ones I needed for backup in the garage rolled up in newspaper. I made a mistake putting them in a lose open plastic grocery store bag. It holds too much moisture and so the newspaper felt moist on some bottom ones and I lost a couple to surface rot that takes the cambium layer and quickly kills a cutting. Of the methods so far tested. The cold garage method looks the best to maintain a 3-5' multi-branch structure. To make backup plants and propigate. 8" long 1" diameter cuttings work great, if prepaired and stored right. Cut and let sit a a day at room temp so they can heal the cut. Make sure surface is dry. Roll up in a sheet or two of newspaper. Stack no more than two deep. Do not put in a plastic bag. Do not wet. They store better than potatoes. Most of my cutting are great and I have started most. All of my purchased cuttings (5) have sprouted and are hrowing in the lighted shed. I've been getting some nice varieties for $10-15 per cutting on eBay. Look for reasonable shipping costs. I picked up these: 'Adeline', *'Maya" = 'Sunset', *'Peaches and Cream', 'Painted Lady', 'Naughty Nick", 'Super Spot'. Only one came on as a, 1/4" small diameter cutting. It looks like it will make it too, but I wont buy there again. I'm growing from seed 'Pink Equador' and an orange single that just came in from India. By growing from seed ai hope to select a nice cultivar and it's fun to do. Brugs and tomatos grow easily from seed for me using a Park Seed Biodome sponge system, heat mat and very bright T5 lights, I grow several Datura this way and a huge variety of interest plants from seed. I grow from seed to fill around our 80 hydrangea and over 180 kinds of German Iris, Japanese Iris, Canna. and modern colorful Echinacea and Red Hot Poker varieties. In fact, the lack of fragrance in many of our plants and strong fragrance from our Brugmansia, Echinacea, Lily areas and last year's test of Nicotiana alata and sylvestris is what convinced me to focus this year on growing from seed other fragrance plants this for day or night interest, We also hace a lot of Hummingbirds around. Growing from seed now are 4 O'Clocks, Old Fashion Vining Petunia, (Tall Garden and Night) Phlox Nicotiana, and Wallflower. The annuals have been selected ad those that also self sow. If they can handle the winter moisture the 4O'clocks should be hardy here. For the hammock zone things all go white to connect you to and bask in a moongarden zone. White Brugmsnsia 'Little Angel', Hardy Hibiscus 'Blue River II', Foxglove, Dephinum, Liatris. Liilum martagon album and speciosa album are also featured in that area. Brugmansia on my list to get include 'Bergkonigin', *'Charles Grimaldi', 'Cherub', 'Cypress Gardens" 'Flamenco' (UK type), and 'Langenbuscher Garten', and *'Snowbank' (a fabulous variegated leaf Maya tertraploid mutant). I will propigate and keep growing the ones that work best. I'll never be without 'Little Angel" and 'Maya'. By the way 'Snowbank' grows great here in our cool climate and blooms, but takes longer to get to a blooming height than 'Maya'. I think it eas released from an OR based grower. Below is a photo of Snowbank large beautiful leaves on our yard. I grow it for the leaves alone. Internet photo of it on flower. Also yes the great majority of Brugs want to branch before blooming. I've started Brugs before from Y DUAL branch and TRI branch cuttings of Maya and Little Angel and got blooming before with 1.5' plants. And I've routinely had Little Angel and also a Charles Grimaldi bloom on a 2' single stock.plant (grown with heavy addition of 10-10-10 cheap slow release 4 month pellet fertilizer). Frosty Pink is a good grower and bloomer yes, but it starts blooming a month later for me here than Little Angel or Maya so I get two less flushes and 1/2 to 1/4 the flower production from it compared to some others. It will be fun to see what other varieties do here. Our home not far from Seatac is much sunnier than our former Woodinville yard. Right now I'm in an expansion phase growing enough of 'Little Angel' so that I can compare inside overwintering with in ground overwintering methods. Brugs here are supposed to come back from rootstock and grow several feet in a year. With my compact 'Little Angel' a strong cutting started in Feb will yield a 4-5' tall & diameter plant with 32 to 64 flowers in the final flowering just before the final frost. So working from cuttings alone is rewarding and makes nice patio container plants. However, my goal is to yield large outdoor summer bushes with 128-256-522 final fall bloom size. We are thinking of attaching a greenhouse to our house a 1,044-2,088 flowering sounds neat to see at least once, but the fragrance would likely be two much ... even dangerous? I have a Little Angel and Frosty Pink outside now under cold frames gor my first in ground tests. It did not freeze in the cold frames, even with 22 F outside temps. I also keep the tops dry this way. To begin the test I cut 4.5' and 6' plants to about a 1' on each leaving a 3 or 4 stemmed base on each. I got these to start tomatoes amd vegetables early ... and heck a couple Brugs getting a rocket start in the middle of them sounds just right. The design is that the Hammock Stand foot end just inserts between the two bushes rooted here. Once i s while the summer/fall breeze deviates 90 ° and wafts you with a fragrance hit. I don't want grass. Any suggestions for a nonfragrant ground cover here? Brugmansia are not expensive but they take strategy in our zone or we are rebuying small starters each year. Try a newer variety hardy gardenia too? Also plant Witchazel, Sarcococca, Hyacinth and an old English Rose in the yard. Sammers510 you're a Portland Neighbor, so I should be able to save you a 'Little Angel' and possibly 'Pink Xself' rooted cutting. If for no other reason than to ensure that you are solidly pushed off that deep end. It also gifts me external backup should a storm take everthing here. I truely do understand the citrus hook, for its fragrance alone But all bright lights or greenhouse heating gets expensive.