Thanks for the advice. Per your suggestion, I will be moving the electrical box out of the ground and onto the vinyl siding. It will be mounted at the same height as my garden hose bib which means I'll be able to drill through the sill plate instead of drilling through cinderblock. A couple of other things...the electrical box (which I've already removed from the ground) is still in very good shape. It has a like-new GFCI outlet in it and I plan to reuse it. Since the outlet in my garage is on the same breaker (but not in series with the light switch that controls the outdoor outlet) should it be changed to a GFCI outlet as well? I was always under the impression that you could only have on GFCI outlet per breaker. When mounting the outlet box I will be drilling a hole through my sill plate to the exterior of the home. I assume you just keep drilling (eventually through the vinyl siding) until you see daylight. The question I have is how to mount the box in such a way to make the hole I just drilled protected from moisture? First I have to install a romex connector in the knockout and snake the wire through the wall. Then what? Is there a compound that fills the hole? Next question....specifically what type of wet-rated wire should I use from the box inside the basement to the outlet on the outside of the house. I will only need about 18 inches or so of this wire so I'm hoping it can be purchased in very short lengths. Maybe at HD I can buy it by the foot off a spool. After I run the wire through the hole should I seal it from the inside in my basement with any type of cement before mounting the metal box? Below is another video I posted showing the new plan, some work already in progress, and more questions that I have moving forward. Additional help would be greatly appreciated... Here is a link that might be useful: revised re-wiring plan

I would fix it and move on, but I am seriously concerned that you're being taken in $200 increments. You need to get something from them that when this is fixed there are no further issues so that you can move on rather than fix this problem and have them come back with yet one more. That being said I can't imagine putting a cast-iron sink into a cabinet where the material split and not being nervous. The last time I looked at one of Kohler's manuals there were several ways to hold that sink in the cabinet. Rather than be a little nervous about it, you should make sure that the sink is supported properly. It will be much much more costly for you if after you have the granite countertop installed the sink separates from the countertop and begins to fall downwards.

I don't know the details of the fixings for the granite. We had a granite table previously (see picture) for 16 years but it was so well fixed and stable, they were unable to remove the granite to move it for the current garden renovation, so sadly it had to be destroyed! So we're having to get a new piece of granite! I love the fact it needs absolutely no maintenance whatsoever, other than a scrub and wipe before use! As far as the banquette, we don't really have a choice. We've removed a higher level garden to create a new patio area and intend to have a firepit table that needs a minimum 3 metre footprint. If we have the fixed table away from the house wall and far enough away to be able to pull out chairs all the way around, it will be in the way of the chairs of the firepit table and make the whole area look/feel cluttered. I'm hoping that with a 12" gap between the seating and the table top that slim adults won't find it impossible, even if it isn't ideal. We'll have the five folding chairs for regular use, so it will only be when we have "extras" that the banquette will come into play. Does that reassure..?

As G & S states, there is WAY MORE going on here than just 'cracks'. A concrete slab cracks...but they are normally hairline or spider cracks. You have BIG cracks running in straight lines (concrete doesn't normally do this....so what is CAUSING it to do this?????). And you have voids in your concrete. Something (from below) has damaged it SOOO badly that chunks have come out of it. Ouch! I think you will need to put your flooring purchase on hold and call a 'wet basement' specialist that deals with damaged concrete slabs and moisture issues. They will deal with this...but it is going to cost the same amount (or more) as you had planned for the vinyl purchase + install. To fix your basement slab, you will want to set aside at LEAST $5/sf...with the knowledge that it is very possible it will go up. I've seen badly damaged cement slabs with +++ water damage cost $10/sf or more to permanently fix. Gasp! I know. I get it. That's not what you wanted to hear. At least I can say it here (and you can read it in private) so that when the quotes come in, you will be mentally and emotionally prepared to 'hear them'. You will not feel like you are being 'ripped off' if you start hearing some of these numbers come back at you. Take a deep breath and start calling companies in your area. I can guarantee they have seen this before. And more than likely they have seen it in the same neighborhood as well.