hcmcdole, can you explain how to root begonias using the water method?
8 years ago
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Comments (21)
- 8 years ago
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Water Rooting Versus Potting Mixture Method!
Comments (5)I root all mine initially in water. I am careful about how much water I put in the glass, temperature, and changing it. I feel I can control the rooting process better this way. I use my reg. tap water :) I used to use the reverse osmosis that we have but then had prob. with chlorosis so just went to the reg. water and haven't had any problems. There is a difference in rooting green, wood, and semi-wood cuttings. I start all in water but wood usually comes out much quicker sometimes in a few days even- because they just root faster. Semi- wood are my favorite to root. Green ones that start dropping I put into humid enviornment and then have to wean out and that can be a PIA! But sometimes they are worth it :) I don't use a bubbler because I don't need to keep brugs in water that long because the winters are not that long here so I can't comment on using them. There is also a difference in cultivars. I notice that the ones that have a really smooth bark (not many bumps) take longer to root even if they are semi-woody/wood. Once a cutting has a few roots that are 1/2 long at least then they go into potting soil mixed with plenty of perlite. It will be a fairly small container, goes under lights-no cold drafts etc. I keep whatever foilage misted but try not to get the stem too wet especially if it is woody. Water then let go a little dry on top before watering again. In all I think you need to try a lot of diff ways and see what works for you in your particular enviornment. I have noticed there is a huge difference in rooting and growing in different areas that I have lived in. Humidity seems to play a huge role too....See MoreWhat methods are you using now to root cuttings?
Comments (10)I do pre-soaked 50/50 perlite/potting mix in clear containers. Then add an 3/4 inch of 100% fine dry vermiculite on top to seal out any fungus gnats or moisture loss. Then place them in a plastic ziplock bag. Once I see the roots in the cup and buds are starting to swell I take them out of the bag and put them on a south facing window (use suction cup shampoo holders). I put the clear cups in red solo cups to absorb heat and block UV from damaging the roots. Then I can pull the clear cups out and take a peek at development anytime. For watering if any pools at the bottom of the cup its too wet. If nothing condenses on the inside of the clear cup in full sun its too dry....See MoreI'm Lazy--What can you root in plain old water???
Comments (174)It's not appropriate to pitch a particular brand or type of rooting hormone because different plant species respond to different chemicals. The most effective concentration levels of rooting aids vary by species and type of cutting and the most effective chemical to use also varies primarily by6 plant species and can be much more important than concentration levels; so, it is a combination of the concentration AND the choice of chemical + type of cutting and time of year that determines the effectiveness of a rooting chemical. Rooting aids are synthesized forms of the plant hormone/growth regulator 'auxin'. Indole butyric acid (IBA) and naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) are the two most common chemicals that have been found to be reliable in the promotion of rooting in cuttings. IBA is widely applied in general use because it is non-toxic to most plants over a wide range and promotes root growth in a large number of plant species. Some plants respond better to either IBA or NAA, some respond to ONLY one or the other, some may have a toxic reaction to one but not the other which will lead to poor or no growth and actually, mortality; and, some respond best to combinations of both chemicals, or to other variations of either IBA or NAA based on K (potassium). Both IBA and NAA are commonly available in talc or in liquid formulations of varying concentrations. I do lots of propagating of several hard-to-root species, but only use a rooting aid occasionally for the most difficult. As a generalization, you should know on a per plant basis which chemical and concentration is most apt to be effective before applying it. I have found it mostly unnecessary. Learning a little about the cultural conditions cuttings prefer and some other tricks (like methods of wounding) along with cleanliness will add more to what it takes to be successful at propagating (plants) than rooting aids (except in the very hard to root plants). Al...See MoreCane begonias: how to root ?
Comments (27)Rosie, You and I don't have to worry about that since we do have each other's email and can go private when we want to. I guess when GW came under the Houzz umbrella, some things changed. It didn't used to be difficult in the good old days. HAHA! At least we can post up to 10 photos on each post which is a good thing. In the past only one photo and that was from the thread starter. The only other way was to put in a link using HTML to where you stored any pictures on another web site which was okay until the pictures were scrubbed from the other web site(s). We may see our first frost Monday so I may have to cover some of my plants until I can get them in. We will probably experience our "Indian Summer" after Monday though which will give me an extra two weeks to bring everything indoors....See More- 8 years ago
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