My experience with a 'sear burner' is that it really isn't 'all that'. I watched a video of someone cooking two steaks on the same grill, one side with a sear burner, the other with it's 'normal' burner. Both steaks turned out the same. When I was searching around several years ago for a grill I saw that there are mostly 3 levels. Those from $99 to around $999, those from $1000 to around $2900, and those above that. The lower level used cheap steel, cheap valves and cheap burners, all of which would rust to death in a few years. The middle level used better components (stainless in more places, valves that actually had a low setting, stainless tube burners), but there construction was a bit less (screws instead of welds). The higher end used 304 stainless throughout, heavy stainless grill surface rods (instead of porcelain steel that will eventually crack and rust), welded seams throughout the firebox and lid. So it really depends on your budget. What I would look for: 1. stainless steel cooking grates over porcelain. Cast iron is going to rust unless you take constant care of it. There are some stainless grates that are 'non-stick', not a coating but a special way they are made. 2.alternative lighting system. Pretty much all have electric start, either by spark or by glowplugs. The alternative "emergency" lighting Ive seen uses a 'flame tube' where you hold a match over it and the flame flows down to the burner. Nice to have it the batteries or power go out. 3. Decent rotisserie system. Look for how much weight it can support and how big the burner is in relation to the whole cooktop. 4. Lights. Sometimes good to have at night but they do get sooted up over time. 5. Easy opening/accessible splatter tray. Cover with foil and cleanup is a breeze. 6. Stainless tube, stainless cast or brass burners. They should never rust out on you. 7. Some gas grills come with dividers that separate the grill sections for each burner. This allows you to cook at different temperatures on the same grill. So one section for steak, one for burgers and one for chicken. This can come in handy. BBQ grill source

I have a gas module and an induction module. Several of us here do. You do need a few inches between the two, but since you were talking big hood, it should be fine. The trick to looks is symmetry. My induction has a stainless bevel frame which matches the bevelled edge of the stainless gas module, and the black grate matches the black induction. With the Wolf and BS 24" you have size and black in common. You can have a range top shaped frame made for the induction, or you can just do a contrast drawer/apron front to mimic the front of the rangetop. The simplest way would be to do the countertop in stainless (sheet or tile) all around both cooktops, and also clad the drawer/apron with it. That makes them visually one unit with some balance. Wrapping a drawer/cabinet front with sheet stainless isn't a big deal. Or you could just say function is function and let them dance. :) It sounds like it's the solution you were looking for.

Adding to this again. We spent over a year designing and planning every aspect of our home, and we are 99% happy with it. There's always something though! Things we added that we love: Electric - Again the Lutron lights. Very flexible, programmable, any switch can control any "connected" light in the house Outlet planning. Both sides of bathroom countertops, power strips under kitchen cabinets so you don't have to look at them in the backsplash, where you might install a future Sonos speaker (high on the wall, outside where you entertain, front porch, etc), in every closet (cordless vacuums etc), 220v for a garage air compressor, 220v for future electric car Extra circuits. I've had kitchen circuits trip during holidays for having just a few crock pots plugged in. I think every "wall area" is on a separate 20a breaker in our new home. Also (funny example) we have a huge christmas tree that pulls close to 5a so turn the TV on and some lamps then pop goes the breaker. We did a dedicated "christmas tree" circuit right in front of our big window where it will always sit. Dedicated circuit to IT rack and/or security panel... Oh and I forgot soffit outlets for hanging christmas lights. Did I mention those are on the Lutron system so I can program them to turn on/off from my phone whenever ;). Rough in a PVC chase from your IT rack up to the attic, future proofs ever needing to add wiring/security/etc HVAC - While we never use "programming" I'm happy we did zoning. Helps when you like bedrooms colder, or if an "entertaining area" will have the door open all day and you don't want to overwork the condenser etc. Since I use/work/hangout in my garage so much, I heated the floor (boiler, hot water). Can't beat warm concrete, completely silent, there's no fan to blow dust around, and keeping it low at 65 feels like 75. However, it was stupid expensive, another thing to break, and I'm gonna have to stay here 20 years to justify the ~$15k cost Our outside AC condensers are close to our entertaining space (didn't have a choice). I have 3 of them. Chose to upgrade to the more quiet/efficient and VFD Carrier options. Super glad I did, literally all 3 will be running full blast and I can barely hear them from 5' away. Plumbing - hot/cold mixed spigot in garage for washing cars. Utility sink in garage. Line drains in garage instead of dinky 6" can drains. Floor drains in basement area where you might see flooding/water on a bad day. Rough in radon vent PVC if it might be in your area, so if you need it it won't be on the outside of your house. Multiple hose bibs outside for cleaning/play Things I missed: I wish I planned better for a future screen porch Some doors hit cabinets when open instead of opening all the way to sit flush against the wall One light switch ended up on the wrong side of the door swing Didn't realize my custom front door lock wasn't the same as the other exterior doors, now I have 2 house keys... Should've done a ceiling fan on my outdoor porch (plan how you'll entertain) Underestimated landscaping cost. I figured we would just "worry about it later" Plan furniture arrangement very well. We made some mistakes but made it work in the end... One half bathroom is too dark, we only did sconce lights but it should have also had a can light for its size

Julie. Thank you for the ideas. We are going to use a few of your suggestions. We will move the master bedroom door and have one big window like you suggested adding more light. I had 2 windows because I thought I’d put the bed on that wall between the windows. We will add frieze boards, deeper overhangs too. Thank you. You have very good ideas about the laundry and bath but I think I will leave. The house faces SE and I wanted that front upstairs window to bring in some light to the hallway. The window was made bigger than the original house it’s 5’ 4’6”. But I think now I will see if she can make taller not wider. As per my inspiration house. It won’t be used as a sitting area like marked in drawing too small, more I guess to add light. I really like the porch think it makes the house look smaller and cozy. The only thing about porch I worry about is how much light it blocks. I will have a solid main front door with clear glass all around. The windows on the SW side are 7’ long x 5’6”. Windows at the back are the same size . Windows on each side of fireplace SW are 4’ wide x 5’6”. Downstairs ceilings 9’. I’m pretty sure will only add grids to top of these window so fire place is main focus in room facing that direction. See pic attached. The small porch on the back of living room is only 5’9” and I though of eliminating all together. We are empty nesters and entertain a lot so we wanted no bedrooms downstairs and upstairs the 2 bedroom will be used for grandchildren, visitors or office. The attic space will be a tv room and the main living room will not have a tv. The house would look totally different without the hip porch and the windows would pop out. That’s a very good idea too. Thanks for your suggestions. I appreciate it. We have a future elevator drawn in if ever need be.