Hi, I am a new gardener still learning my ways to successful harvest. Herbs: A great cost effective crop. I agree with most here that herbs like basil, parsley, sage, rosemary are cost effective. Veggies: Category 1: It really comes down to what one eats. Like for me with an asian background, I like a lot of Asian vegetables that are very very expensive even if I am able to find them in the market and so most of the time, I don't even buy them. Growing them at home(for eg: ridge gourd, bottle gourd, bitter gourd, some asian greens) gives me the opportunity to savor them all to my hearts content. Category 2: What is most perishable: These varieties in the market tend to be more expensive as the cost of transporting and selling them in time leaves the seller and grower with lot of wasted harvest. I can think of berries, esp raspberries that come under this category. Okra, Thai eggplants, bottle gourd, greens(salad greens, spinach etc) are some vegetables that do not have a longer shelf life. So I find growing these very cost effective. So vegetables you would otherwise eat except for the cost at the supermarket are worth considering. Category 3: Long term storage: I find the best price for tomatoes in summer to be 59 cents a pound and bell peppers some $3 for 5 or 6. Come october, these are no longer valid prices. The prices go up. So, if I can make my harvest last thru Jan, I am saving on these staples. Well, again, for these veggies and others mentioned in the other points, one should base their judgement of what to grow on the space vs cost based on space constraints. I do not know how cost effective it is to grow onions, but am trying them this year for the companion planting benefits it gives. Green onions, They store very well in the fridge for me and are reasonably costeffective, so I would be growing these. I don't have a large yard, probably a few hundred sq ft. But with the vertical growth advantage some of the veggies present and the succession planting, I hope to last my growing season long to gain the most of what I put in. It appears to me that some investment is needed, like good compost( I cannot make compost due to my association rules, I am thankful that they did not object my veggie gardening yet), mulch, irrigation system. But like with any project or hobby, we build slowly, starting small and growing as our resources permit and our energies permit. More conveniences, the more our time is spent on growing more and tending to everything that we grow. Like for eg, if I have irrigation system, every evening I can find time to plant more companion plants and reduce the pest problem to grow organic. I can find time to prune my tomatoes. I can find time to harvest the produce right on time, thereby increasing my harvest. Also, my occasional vacation plans do not need to suffer my plants. My mulch should help reduce some weeds. Getting a wheelbarrow helps get the mulch task and several lugging around tasks much easier. Oh, I forgot to mention that I recently asked my community landscaper to give me the empty flats after he planted pansies. He was happy to deliver them which he would have thrown into garbage. So, this solved my problem of finding transplanting containers for my growing seedlings. I am sure craigslist and few other sources are available for the resourceful hobbyists which should help save on some of the investment. For bell peppers etc try roasting them on grill after smearing them with oil and take the skins off and you can store them either in glass jars or freeze them. When thawed they can be used in soups, sandwiches, spreads etc..

Thanks tox. The 2nd pest guy uses the Sentricon Bait method. Two different pest guys said the one who doesn't dig the trench but just polls Termidor into the perimeter of house is taking the lazy way out of having to dig a trench. I concur which is why I posted to see if that way sounded "off" to others as it did to me. I've done a lot of research. Had a 3rd guy out who uses the Termidor trench method but actually digs the trench, polls the trenched area with chemicals into the ground AND fills the trench with liquid chemicals, then covers over with dirt. He also blasts holes w/ chemicals in the garage and other concrete areas, therefore, making a barrier around the house. The 3rd guy told me that if one has termites, the barrier method is always used first to rid the termites quickly. The bait method is only used when you do not have termites, but, are preventing yourself from getting them in the first place. Thanks for the link.

The friend I have that does stained glass,but doesn't plan on doing anymore herself.... now says.....she will loan me everything to make a few pieces. My intension would be to make 5 pieces, as cabinet inserts in my home. I've looked online and even watched utube videos. One video showed a girl buying a broken half sheet of glass in a hobby store for $1.79, another video showed a person soldering saying the solder is VERY expensive so don't waste it. I would think copper foil would be a HUGE expense. I'm wondering how the cost adds up to $100 for a 24" X 18" piece. I have a little time to look this hobby over, my friend says she doesn't have time for me until after X-mas.

Organic Weed Control Methods ~ Mulching What is Mulch?" Mulch is a protective covering (such as of bark chips, compost, or grass clippings) overlaid on the ground. Mulch reduces the moisture loss from the soil by preventing evaporation from sunshine and desiccating winds. Mulch prevents erosion by eliminating or reducing the "splash-away" effect of torrential downpours. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature by shading it in the summer thus keeping it cooler and helps insulate it in the winter from chilling winds. This temperature regulating effect helps encourage the root growth of plants. Mulch helps to keep fruit clean (such as strawberries and tomatoes) by reducing muddy splash-ups during rainstorms. Mulch controls weed growth by smothering seedlings, prevents daylight which helps foster germination from reaching weed seeds, and prevents air-borne seeds from taking hold in the soil surface. Mulch helps prevent damage to trees and bushes by protecting their stems and surface roots from damage by mechanical garden tools such as weed whackers, edgers, and lawn mowers. Mulch helps prevent soil compaction by providing a cushion to walk upon. Walking on bare soil will compact it reducing its aeration and ability to drain. Mulch provides a more unified and tidy appearance to flower beds and borders. Mulch helps reduce yardwaste disposal and cash outlay. If you utilize your own yard wastes by chipping pruned branches and limbs, make your own compost, or use grass clippings and raked fallen leaves for mulch you won't have to bag and haul them to the curb for collection or pay for their disposal, you won't utilize land-fill space, and you'll keep your wallet in your pocket because the mulch you create is free. Mulch enriches the soil as it breaks down and releases nutrients back into the ground. Mulch, if not already decomposed, will encourage microbial organisms which are beneficial to healthy plants. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ "What are some common mulches?" Chipped hardwood bark mulch: Is readily available for home-owners from township landfills. It is made from ground and/or chipped trees. It is often free or available at a low cost. The downside of chipped bark mulch from municipalities is that it may contain bark from diseased trees. Compost it for a year before using it in your garden. Before you apply the aged bark mulch topdress your garden soil with fertilizers high in nitrogen such as blood-meal, cottonseed-meal, manure, or guano. Softwood bark mulch: Made from pine, fir, or redwood, is available in many different sizes. It is long lasting and excellent for use in foundation plantings. Compost: Is an excellent mulch that you can make at home by composting various yardwastes such as leaves, grass clippings, plants and soft-wood bush prunings, coffee grounds, and non-animal kitchen wastes. Partially decomposed composted material is one of the most nutrient rich mulches you can use. As it breaks down it releases nutrients into the soil. Crushed Corncobs: Regionally available inexpensive mulch. It is generally available as a dyed or natural product. Corncob mulch is a cushioning mulch and is often used in playgrounds. Hay: Often used in rural and farm gardens because it is more likely to be available at the least expensive cost. The use of aged bales may reduce the weed content. Apply hay mulch after the ground has warmed to discourage mice and voles from tunneling under it. Spent Hops: Available from breweries. Can be a bit "whiffy" after application but the scent will dissipate after a few weeks. Buckwheat Hulls: Buckwheat hull mulch is fluffy and is excellent for use around perennials and annuals. Cocoa-bean Hulls: Cocoa-bean hull mulch is a rich brown color and smells like chocolate-heaven (yumyum!). Apply it in a thin layer as it can otherwise become slimy or moldy. If applied at greater than a three inch depth you may wish to occasionally rake it to stir the hulls about, thus reducing the dampness which fosters the mold. Peanut Hulls: Peanut hull mulch is available from garden centers near peanut growers and processors. As it breaks down it provides some nitrogen to the soil. Lawn Clippings: Grass clippings are best used after they've been allowed to dry. If applied while they're fresh they can compact and generate heat while decomposing. They can produce strong odors the first week or two of decomposition but the scent will subside after that. It is not recommended to use grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides. Leafmold: This mulch is available from most municipal composting facilities or you can make your own. Autumn gathered leaves left to decompose over winter will provide you with leafmold ready for use the following spring. Fallen Leaves: The least expensive form of mulch available. It is readily available in Autumn near woody areas. Fallen leaves may be used as is, chopped with the lawn mower to reduce their size, or compost them during winter and use them as leafmold the following spring. Manure: Available as a bagged commercially composted product at garden centers, or available fresh from stables and farms. Fresh manure should be composted for at least six months to reduce nitrogen burn when applied around plants and to reduce the viability of weed seeds in the manure itself. Mushroom soil/compost: Is available at garden centers or sources near commercial mushroom growers. It is generally inexpensive. Peat Moss: A commonly used mulch, it is attractive when applied thickly. Look for course-grade peat moss when using it for a mulch. It can be cost prohibitive when used for mulching large areas. Peat moss will shed water when it's dry rather than absorbing it. You can help maintain it's moisture by watering this mulch regularly when you also water your lawn. Pine Needles: Are a light colored, fluffy, and pretty mulch. Leave them in place under pine trees rather than removing them. Rake them from your lawn grass and use them to mulch around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, blueberries, and rhododendrons. They are also excellent to use as a cushioning mulch for garden paths and will release their pine scent when walked upon. Sawdust: Available from timber mills or other wood processing businesses. As it decomposes it can cause nitrogen loss from the the soil so if used in garden beds apply nitrogen rich fertilizers regularly. Sawdust is an excellent mulch for garden paths. It is not recommended to use sawdust from chemically treated or painted wood. Straw: Can be used for winter protection as an overlay in muddy areas and will provide some traction on icy paths. It is also frequently used as a mulch in veggie gardens. Do not use straw mulch in frequently used areas as it is highly inflammable. Do not use it to mulch walkways as it can be easily ignited by a carelessly tossed smoldering cigarette butt. Wood Chips: Can be obtained from arborists, utility companies, municipal yard waste facilites, and garden centers. They are very long lasting and make a good overlayment for paths and walkways. To learn more about mulch and the wonderful effect of compost and micro-organisms in the soil please visit the "Soil, Compost, and Mulch Forum" and do read their fabulous FAQs. Taking care of your soil is vital to having a garden of healthy and vigorous plants.