Christie, I had my fence rows cleaned last fall and need to spray to keep the hedges and underbrush from growing back. Local co-op recommended a product by the name of PastureGard (Dow Chemical product). I do not need an applicator license to use it and was told that it should do the job that I want. I have not applied it as of this day because I am waiting on some of the stumps to sprout additional leaves. Should be ready in 2 or 3 weeks. Can't tell you how effective it will be but the information I found on-line on PastureGard appears favorable. It is in no way cheap as 1 gallon cost me $52.00. The mixing ratio is shown on the container. Down here all chemicals recently took a huge jump. Gas keeps on getting closer to the $4.00 mark. It just went up today to 3.67 gallon most name brands. Been reading about all the severe weather in your parts. Hope things settle down soon.

The problem is I bought 2 for 1 Kilz when they had a sale at a big box store. So I'm stuck with those and I'd prefer using it instead of buying something else. How if I put it up with rollers instead of brushes. Now I feel bad because I bought a couple of cheap brushes that I can't return I guess, but better I should give them away instead of picking strings off the wet walls.

Thank you so much for these ideas and the technical terms ! I wasn't even sure what to google other than 'hinge' which returns a bazillion results, lol. Yes, inboard of the pivot point is the problem I was trying to explain. If I have to overlay the excess not centered to the opening, I will. But that takes my mirror further to the left than I wanted to be (hinge will be on the right). Ideally, the excess would be to the right, on the same side as the hinge, with just a little overlay on the left. When I googled 'overlay partial wrap hinge', I also found these hinges. I think the plate would have to be mounted on the face of the sheetrock, with longer screws that would go thru the sheetrock and screw into the studs, but would these work ??? It looks like they would allow the mirror to have a very large overlay on the right and also the hinge would be hidden. http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/blum-compact-33-face-mount-plate http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/cabinet-hinges/blum-european-hinges-grass-european-hinges/blum-compact-33-hinges-and-mounting-plates/compact-33-hinges I see the hinge is supposed to be inserted into a drilled out cup. Vice versa, could the face plate be mounted on the mirror, and the hinge cup be drilled into the sheetrock ? Would the hinge still open correctly ? The reason I ask, is because I am not sure what material the frame of the mirror is made from and also if it is deep enough to allow me to drill the cup. Lateral hinges I think would not work, for the same reason as the drawer glides mounted sideways - I don't *think* there would be enough room. We're down at the beach house right now (our last guest broke the side rail on one of the bunk beds and we're here fixing it, no idea what they were doing to break the rail lengthwise all the way from end to end!! kids jumping on the bed I would guess), but I can measure for that idea when we get home tomorrow.

3" is an odd size flooring width. Solid hardwood is available at 3 1/4" for a standard size. You have engineered red oak flooring. The thickness is most likely 3/8". Which has been glued down. To confirm, knock on the floor. If, you have a solid knock, it's engineered glue down. If, it's hollow, you have a floating floor or hollow spots in your glue down flooring.