Look at the message-boardâÂÂs info at the link below. This explains why my truckâÂÂs rear flasher was faster and I was told that indicates a bad bulb (which was the problem). âÂÂYour friend is right,,,the blinker relay flashing rate is based on the current draw of the circuit....more lights or a heavier current draw like hooking up a trailer would make the blinkers flash slower and less lights or a burned out light will make the blinker flash faster. LED's draw less current than the original bulbs which tricks the flasher into blinking faster as if the bulbs were burned out. The hazard circuit has more bulbs in it....both sides and front/rear... so it is less likely to be affected by a lower drawâÂÂ. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110121202753AASTliB Here is a link that might be useful: More Info

Make sure it is beefy enough and large enough to do at least a cubic yard of dirt , and gravel. I can get 3 cubic yards in my 16 footer but now we have a new van and it struggles to haul that load. The old van was so much stronger. I miss it. It looked like rusty hell, but it had spunk. This new van looks nice and shiny but is a slug. It is important to match the size of your trailer to what you are hauling it with. I love my 16 footer when it comes to hauling brush out of the "back forty" ( not actually 40) and do not wish it smaller. For hauling, I could probably uses smaller trailer but a strong one. A 10' or 12' long one. I think an 8' would be small for me. If you are going to haul dirt, compost , it will need sides or something that sides can be built on. My trailer came with a metal frame that was open. I paneled mine with some old 2X 12's and bolts..

**Gary.Where the hell did you get the dual wheel idea from ?** From this comment... **with a twin axle rig you can't see if a tire is flat so you've got to use your jack handle, hammer or piece-a-rebar and thump yer tires every time you stop. Every time.** That is the process you use to check duals. I'm calling bs. that might be true IF both axles are independantly attached to the frame without that rocker peice between the two spring packs allowing the axles to move independantly. If it is built that way, it's a POS anyway. Even a tire on an empty single axle trailer might only have 13 lbs of air out of 30 - 60 lbs it's supposed to have and still appear fully inflated...untill you put your load on it. Same with the brake control. Same trailer, same load, gotta have a brake control. I call bs. Even if so, $40 material and an hours time and it's done. Big deal. Same with the comment about ez lift hitches and added weight. For $200, all he can be getting is another axle, not an entirely different trailer. Same with **If the trailor is not fully loaded you are wasting the capability of the trailor.** You will not find a single example ever of an axle or tire failure because it was underloaded. I bet just about everyone's seen a single axle trailer laying dead along side the road missing a wheel...spindle and all. That didn't happen because it wasn't loaded to capacity. **you might want to talk to my brother about flats and blow outs on a tamdam axil.** Why would I want to? I believe you. Maybe your brother hit the lottery for a million too. That doesn't mean everyone that buys a ticket does. For comparison to your brother's experience, I've worked for a construction outfit for the last 26 years. Got lots of tandom axle trailers that leave the yard daily. There are staples, nails, and bits of wire on the ground where the things are parked. Not to mention the stuff in the road like that your brother evidently failed to avoid one time resulting in the loss of two tires, and then the construction sites. Those are always tire freindly environments you know. Anyway, in all that time, I've seen a lot of flats. Don't remember a single time where two tires went bad on the same side at the same time, much less the front tire causing the rear one to fail. The positives of a single axle, all other factors equal, are it's ease to move around by hand, and the once every 12 years you need tires for it, most likely because the originalls are rotten from old age, it will in fact cost half as much. The positives of the dual axle in this instance are twice the capacity, virtually the same money. Either one will serve the purpose.

Look at prices of similar new trailers at suppliers and catalogs. If the used trailer is in good condition, figure 50% of new price. Start bargaining less than this figure keeping in mind your top price. (If it is a nice trailer and you really want it, you have to go a bit higher.) If some repair is needed, reduce the price accordingly. Jack up each axle end and spin the wheels. Listen for bearing noise. It'll be a grinding like, grumbling noise. Good bearings are quiet. A common problem with trailer wheel bearings is water invasion, especially for boat trailers where the wheels get immersed during launch and take out time. A poor bearing will likely fail on a long trip at highway speeds. Before you finalize the deal, check out the lighting. Does the tail lights and signal lights work? Does the correct set of lamps flash when a turn signal is turned on? (I am assumomg that your tow vehicle is equipped with the proper setup to handle trailer lamps. If not, get it equipped before picking up the trailer.) Match capacities. The capacity of the vehicle hitch should equal or exceed the trailer and the tow vehicle must be rated to handle the trailer load. Same goes for braking. Match the hitch ball size to the railer's tounge. The trailer must have safety chains. Criss cross the safety chains and pass under the trailer tonge, e.g., the left chain goes under the tongue and hooks up to the riight side of the tow bar and the right chain goes under the tongue and fastens to the left side of the hitch. The object is in case the tongue comes off the hitch, the chains will cradle the tongue keeping it from digging into the street or soil - think stuffing the tounge into a pothole. Properly installed chains will keep the trailer fastened to the tow vehicle, yet not bind in a sharp turn, and will and prevent a run-away trailer. A loose trailer on a highway is a lethal object. and you are responsible for it.