Anything to choose between various "Ladys' Mantle"?
rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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christinmk z5b eastern WA
8 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
warm temperate and subtropical plants in various climates
Comments (25)OK. the trump card the proves, beyond a shadow of a doubt, why FAR more warm summer plants can tolerate cool summers, than cool summer plants can tolerate warm summers...is glacial refugia. Let's compare the East Coast to the Pacific Coast. In the last Ice Age, the glaciers came about as far south as central Pennsylvania. The currently warm summer areas in the mid-Atlantic and upper South would obviously have had much, much cooler summers, in addition to colder winters. On the Pacific coast, they only went as far south as roughly the WA/OR border. The climate of a place like San Francisco no doubt got a bit colder, but not much. At worst, it might have gotten as cool as Seattle. But guess what...both places have cool summers now. It didn't make a difference if San Francisco had slightly cooler summers, they already are cool - the plants did not require any adaptation! OTOH, the plants of the Southeast had to adapt to much cooler summers. Hence the reason most Southeastern shrubs will grow just fine in the UK, assuming the winters aren't too cold, but very few shrubs from the world's maritime climates can grow in the Southeastern USA. There's no reason to think there would be ancestral/inactive genes in those plants to tolerate warm summers, because they never had to tolerate them. OTOH, warm summer climate plants have had to tolerate cooler summers during glacial periods. This post was edited by davidrt28 on Fri, Nov 30, 12 at 19:55...See MoreHow to decide among the various fund managers and mutual funds?
Comments (4)I agree that very few of them beat the averages ... how could they? They have offices to run, computers, phones, postage and staff ... and buy and sell a lot of stocks, and though their fees are low, many of them pretty well turn over their whole portfolio annually. Those that do that ... have a lot of capital gain to report to you (you hope!) annually ... of which the income tax people want their, in that case, ongoing, share. And they have that management expense fee (often higher than the income tax cost) that reduces their effective rate - and they get their guaranteed rate, whether they produce or not! Also - when it comes time to sell those units, you'd better have kept records of not just your original cost ... but also of all of those declared payouts that were reivested, in order to calculate your capital gain. Many mutual funds keep track of your average cost per unit ... that works O.K. ... until they get bought out/merged, etc. and usually the new system just starts from when they took over. Have you checked Morningstar, the agency that rates them? What about learning how money works and buying individual stocks yourself? I bought shares in one of Canada's half dozen or so nationwide banks over 40 years ago for about $4.20 per share, that was paying about a dime or a bit more as annual dividend. A year ago May each of those shares was "worth" (i.e. "could be sold for") $107.00 ... but they were heavily involved with the U.S. stinky problem mortgage situation, so their price slipped down through the 90s, 80s, 70s, 60s into the 50s ... and have recovered a bit to low 60s. Some here recently said that, of course, I sold ... no, I hadn't. Partly, at the time of the high price, didn't have any idea that it would slide so far ... plus, it went from 4.5 doubles in 41 years to about 4 doubles in those years ... which, apart from the increased income via dividends over those 40 years, is a pretty good rate of growth. But if I were about to buy more bank shares, it'd be a different one, as this is not their first goof in recent years. Recently dividend rate grew from $2.80 to $3.08 to $3.48, which earlier in Canada were tax-advantaged, and recently that advantage increased substantially: so that a person with solely that kind of income went from tax-free $28,000. - 30,000. tax-free, to $46,345. tax-free, an increase of over 60% in one year. Further ... I've subscribed to what I consider Canada's best personal money management magazine for quite a number of years, that carries no ads, is pretty well all text - and the writers respond to subscribers' questions. Local subscribers meet regularly in about 40 places across Canada and I've met with about 20 others monthly here for about 8 years or so: many perspectives and I've learned a lot, there. Cost? Gas to get there, wear and tear on the car - plus, time ... a couple of hours a month, and another at the coffee house after, with a few of the guys and gals. If I'd put that $4.20 into the average even equity-based mutual fund 41 years ago, would the size of that asset have doubled that well? Rather doubtful, I think. A couple of mine have - several haven't. But I don't want to dump 'em this year, due to forced sale of a major holding - Canada's largest telco going private (damn it!). And that's with the income reinvested - and my shares paid me dividends quarterly, with frequent increases, for 41 years. However - the big proviso - the average growth rate has not been that good. I've avoided some taxes as I went along, but that piper will have to be paid, one of these days. Whether while I'm alive ... or for my executor to take care of, before dispersal of my estate to my kids and charities. Had I put that $4.20 into a bank account, GIC, bond, etc. where the number of dollars of principal has been guaranteed, would I have developed any such result? No way! Apart altogether from the tax advantages in the equity-based game (whether of the mutual fund or individual investment variety)! Did I say earlier ... that I prefer to run my own show? Further ... though it was 60 years ago, I grew up on a farm, and farmers are used to irregular income, with loss of some potential income when a cow dies, or reduced yields due to drought or flood (but the price of diesel fuel, fertilizer had to be paid, regardless). And seasonal income, for many. How many town folks could handle getting paid once or twice a year? Plus, they manipulate not only capital, but labour - to repair the tractor, or trade it on a bigger one? Which would require getting bigger tillage equipment, as well. Put a new roof on the barn, this year ... or build it larger? Farmers were much more used to uncertainty than city folks. Or, rather, than city folks used to be. Now, with pensions shrinking and disappearing like fog in the morning sun ... and, in many areas, the values of one's equity in one's owned home (well, "partly-owned", considering the mortgage), and with employment being uncertain, with full-time work scarcer, there have been major changes in the economic picture for city folks, as well. Back up and look at the far horizon ... occasionally, at least. Good wishes for increasingly more effective use of not only your income, but of your assets, as well. ole joyful...See MoreAnything between 'don't touch a thing' and 'tear it down'?
Comments (18)For your project to succeed (fiscally and functionally) you need a talented architect and perhaps a structural engineer. What exists between tear down and do nothing? A world of possibilities. I am a preservation carpenter. I am privileged to have worked with some wonderful homeowners (and many less than!). When they are really committed to the project, wonderful things can happen. In this example, and architect had been retained, but facts on the ground presented themselves as we tore into the building that actually made it more desirable to abandon the 1920's remodeling to an "open concept" and replace the walls as they had been built in 1817. The structure of the house had been severely compromised by the "opening up" of the rooms. Who'da think? There was a 7" sag in this poplar summer-beam. It is the attic floor. It got a steel I-beam dividing it into two half-spans. The second floor framing was all sistered, and four steel columns support the deck. The first floor framing was entirely replaced, and eight footings for posts to support it were added in the basement. A new ledger was bolted to the masonry walls front and rear. The end result: This work also added three new full baths, reframed the entire roof (from beneath, as the standing seam metal roofs were only 10 years old). No kitchen work (except paint, new disposal, some plumbing repairs to tie in to the rest of the house, as that was completely new). The finishes included some very nice touches; Central A/C, keeping the old hot-water radiators; Original windows kept, weatherstripped with spring bronze and new locks; millwork to match original profiles; the old first floor boards all were carefully taken up, re-milled, and re-installed with some new reclaimed heart pine worked in. The second and attic floors were retained in place and just cleaned and waxed. We were able to pull this house back from the brink, literally. It was collapsing in the very center. All this was accomplished for 1/3 the cost of the house. That made good economic sense for the homeowners (and the historic tax credit doesn't hurt either). The house is in a village that is entirely a National Historic _Lamdmark_ district. And the work had to be approved for its authenticity and appropriateness. So even this level of gutting/restoration to an authentic prior appearance _can be done_ if it's carried out by thoughtful and skilled people. Banish the thought from your head that "it can't be that bad" because it probably is worse. Casey Here is a link that might be useful: Photobucket of this house, others...See MoreHad to choose between warm or cold for my trees. Do you have to?
Comments (35)I's good to hear you have a porch to winter store plants imagine if it gets to chilled at night you can simply open a door and share some inside heat or use a suplemental heater for a while With this in mind is it safe to assume your hot house is not attached to your house ? If you have a heater that works for you already I wouldn't suggest adding a lighting system (bulbs) to your hot house as the only sorce of heat simply because they wouldn't be on at night Emphisis on night: It gets to cold to often with colder temps at the minus (?) F degrees bulbs that are off aren't going to warm any area Some bennifits to a heater are it can turn on and off on an as needed basis by thermatic controls and timers helping maintain disired warmth though out the entire day and night. A draw back is loosing power for to long of time with out a second sorce on a colder day On a logical thought, a cold frame wont work for you but if it where to work you wouldn't need any added lighting to keep plants warmer I agree it's better and easier to grow some plants slower if ideal growing conditions cant be suplied with in a persons means if you dont push growth, it's not uncommon for a healthier plant to be seen in the future. Many compliments are read that are directed to Mike Mike Your doing something right...See Morewoodyoak zone 5 southern Ont., Canada
8 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
8 years agoaftermidnight Zone7b B.C. Canada
8 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
8 years agoaftermidnight Zone7b B.C. Canada
8 years agoperen.all Zone 5a Ontario Canada
8 years agoperen.all Zone 5a Ontario Canada
8 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
8 years agomorz8 - Washington Coast
8 years agoThyme2dig NH Zone 5
8 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
8 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoperen.all Zone 5a Ontario Canada
8 years agorouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a) thanked peren.all Zone 5a Ontario Canadadefrost49
8 years ago
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sherrygirl zone5 N il