Agree. leaf miners. They don't pose any real threat to the plants. As mentioned just remove the leaves and/or squish the worm. As for the yellow bottom leaves, that is usually from over-watering, a common problem when using containers as you are. Since nutrients leach out of the pot every time you water you need to replace them regularly and make sure your water pattern is one of consistency - not too much and not too little. Plus there is clearly lots more room in your pot for more soil. The more soil in the container the easier it is to stabilize the watering. Lots of info about all this over on the Container Gardening forum here. Dave

I trust Dave on the temperature thing because he's got smarts and much more experience than I do. Please forgive the long post, but I'm bad at being concise. I certainly don't intend to be critical, but some of the information can help stave off some common but easily avoidable problems. I'm suspicious about what's going on inside that pot. So tell us--how exactly do you water? Do you give a measured amount, or do you soak the soil? Was the plant's root ball very stiff and dry before you replanted it? What kind of soil did you use? Have you ever checked right after you water to be sure that the old soil gets moist? It's very strange for potting soil to need water more than once a week at most. That makes me think the old soil was very peaty and fine grained, and had become so compacted that it was hydrophobic. The best solution to that is to break up and remove all of the hardened soil and replace it with fresh soil, but this isn't a good time of year to do that kind of work. But simply submerging the pot in a bowl or bucket of water until no more bubbles come up (which may take a while) will rehydrate the compacted soil and make it easier for it to accept water normally. For moisture management, your finger is fine so long as it reaches all the way to the bottom. My concern is that your new pot has a reservoir to catch drained water, which can then be wicked up by the soil and keep the bottom wet. The issue is that roots need air to get the oxygen that lets them do their job, so they suffocate, rot, and die if the soil they colonize is wet for any length of time, and obviously can't supply the plant with water. This adds up to overwatering, which has almost the same symptoms as underwatering. Then the plant has to spend energy regrowing the lost roots, which eventually weakens it. That's why we tell people to remove the reservoir so the pot can drain into a saucer and to remove the drained water right away so it doesn't get taken up again. Lenore

That could be drought stress or fertilizer burn. skuiiy: We bought the plant with the shown plastic pot and kept it in there since it seemed to be doing well & producing flowers and fruit. A plant from the nursery producing fruit is often doing so because it's stressed. When tomatoes are stressed, they fruit because the plant rushes to reproduce before it dies. So assuming it's happy because it's fruiting could be incorrect. Even if the pot is OK now, it won't be much longer unless that plant is a dwarf or small determinate. skuiiy: -Gave it liquid fertilizer. -Added about a spoonful of epsom salt to the soil/mulch mix it's in and mixed it in a bit. Epsom salt is really only necessary if the plant has a magnesium deficiency. If not, it could cause problems. Also, it's possible you've given the plant too much fertilizer, which can manifest as leaf burn skuiiy: now I'm watering(about 2 cups of tap water, instead of just 1)every other day starting today to see how that goes. First: Pot it in a much larger container. Gently knock off as much of the current potting mix as possible so that almost all of the mix is fresh, as this will help correct the problem if nitrogen burn is the problem. Use a normal, fluffy, well-draining potting mix, not a mix advertised as moisture-retaining, and not anything labeled as "garden soil". Mix water into the mix well before putting it in the pot, as peat-based mixes can initially repel water if they're dry. Second: Don't measure your water or water on a set schedule. To determine when to water, stick your finger down into the mix a couple inches. If it's dry, water and water very deeply, until the water is running freely out of the bottom of the pot. If it's still wet a couple inches down under the surface, hold off. In your climate, when it gets hot, don't be surprised if you have to water daily. As for fertilizer, you can give the plant a dose according to instructions once a week or every two weeks (depends on how frequently you have to water), or you can water at very dilute strength with every watering (dilute more the more frequently you have to water).

To me it looks like it got wet enough to damage some roots. Dry leaves due to lack of water go tan and crispy for me, turning black after this, is not what I have seen in my experience If the plant is growing new growth the roots have overcome and you will be fine. Trim off the unsightly tips and good luck.