Advice from hardwood professionals
dum7117
8 years ago
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dum7117
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Refinishing Red Oak Hardwood (questions to ask professional)
Comments (0)We are having a professional come and give us a quote tomorrow to refinish our existing red oak floors, add (extend) the red oak into the living room and possibly install it on the stairs. We have two dogs (thick nails) and get traffic from the deck to the breakfast area (Colorado snow). What questions should we be asking? We want it stained a bit darker and want a very good, strong finish for the top coat (he mentioned something about commercial grade to use when I initially called him). Thanks....See MoreAdvice from a hardwood rep for those shopping
Comments (124)Regarding fading...Can organic_donna or anyone comment on how well Mirage Floors UV protection works? We have newly installed Mirage Walnut hardwood with a cashmere finish in the medium/dark Savanna color. We have large view windows in our Great Room that we cannot cover completely and prefer not to have window coverings anyway but we're a bit concerned about the possibility of the wood color fading as the room faces East and gets direct sunlight in the morning. Our windows are Low E and Mirage does have UV protection but we're wondering if that's enough protection over time. Can anyone give any feedback on their experience regarding Mirage and/or Low E glass? We do have friends who have Mirage Red Oak in a room with south facing French doors without window coverings, and after many years in place it's still impossible to see any difference in the floor color when comparing the rug covered areas to areas of exposed hardwood. This was so impressive to us that we went with Mirage in part for their UV protection. Now with our new flooring in place we're wondering if their experience was typical and if our Walnut will hold up as well, or if it's best we find some way to cover those windows, at least in times of direct sun. Any comments or advice anyone?...See MoreDifferences between traditional hardwood and engineered hardwood?
Comments (3)Wow...that's a huge question. I know it sounds simple, but it is quite complex. So complex there are entire books on the subject (both professional and lay-man). So....solid hardwood is just that. It is solid. It is the same wood cut from the same tree, from the same plank at the mill. Traditionally it is 3/4" thick. Widths vary but the classic is around 3" wide plank. A 3/4" solid hardwood can be refinish 3-4 times with a total lifespan of 60-100 years. These are either factory finished or site finished. The industry has realized that some people are too afraid of large purchases so the solid hardwood industry has come up with the idea to make their planks THINNER and thereby making them cheaper. I've seen 1/2" or even 3/8" solid hardwood. They can be refinished once...maybe twice and have a lifespan of 20 - 40 years. These thinner solid hardwoods are often factory finished (cheap, thin and fast). And that's the easy part. Engineered hardwood...where to start. First off the TOP layer is the ONLY LAYER that contains the pricey hardwood that you are paying for. Everything else is like "plywood". The body of the plank is made up of cross-hatched layers of wood (not always hardwood) that are glued together. The top layer will range from 2mm - 6mm. The ability to refinish will depend on the thickness of the top layer (known as the wear layer). You need 3mm of wood to complete a full sand and refinish - just once. So the 2mm wear layer is a "one and done" type of floor. It has a life span of roughly 20 years (though many people rip them out after 15 because they look beaten up). The 6mm wear layer in a 3/4" engineered plank that is site finished is the Holy Grail of the engineered hardwood world. They are the most expensive, the most beautiful and offer the longest life cycle of all engineered hardwoods. They are so expensive that they are MORE expensive than solid hardwood floors. Whew. There is so much more but that's the difference in a nutshell. Shaw has had some complaints. The biggest issues with wood will be humidity and indoor climate control. Ask your builder to check the heating/cooling system. Ask them detailed questions about the unit's capability to handle climate control that is REQUIRED for a hardwood floor - regardless of the presentation....See MoreUrine soaked hardwoods under hardwoods
Comments (5)If the smell is unbearable after pulling one plank then I will hazard a guess the stain is either rather NEW or it has obtained LONG TERM multiple soaks. Either way, the former homeowner KNOWINGLY covered it up. Here's my issue. The homeowner knew of the damage and, depending on how long ago your purchased the home, could be legally and financially responsible for the 'fix'. I don't know your state nor how long ago you purchased....but talking with your Realtor will help you understand what type of recourse you have. The 'fix' = rip out all the current hardwood to expose the layer underneath. Then you will need to investigate (ie. rip out a few planks in the worst places) to see how much the subfloor is damaged. The possibility of ripping out the old hardwood AND the subfloor is high. And that gets expensive. That's why you want to find out what your recourse is with the purchase and who is responsible for paying for the damage....See Moredum7117
8 years agodum7117
8 years agodum7117
8 years ago
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