Buy enough seeds that you can experiment (say from Geoseed). Plant at different times of the year. Plant seeds as they would reseed in nature. In other words when do they drop their seed? (usually spring, summer, maybe, maybe the fall). Most seeds just drop to the ground. Most are exposed to the sun; some drop under the mother plant, thus need shade to germinate but that is not as common. Give your seed looser soil so they have a fair chance to shot their roots into the ground. (Ants can carry off seeds.) Consider where a plant orginates. Always plant 25% more varieties then you need to make up for those that do not germinate. Don't count your chickens before they hatch. Feel lucky if you get some seedlings from each variety. Plant seeds in 1 ft squares. Then move them. A neighbor walked passed the yard today and told my wife that she will start a garden next year to compete with my flower gardens. I know I had a puzzled look on my face when my wife told me. She thought I didn't like the challenge. I told my wife, no I would be glad to help guide this neighbor anyway I can. The weird look I gave her was because I didn't really plant the speculator parts of our garden. The plants planted themselves. No one could have a garden like this unless they introduced self seeders and let the plants plant themselves over the years. My role is to keep them under control and move the seedlings around so that they are organized. Example, I have some amazing vincas this year. No, not from the 6 varieties of seeds I bought, but from a fluke Cora Vinca who should not reseed, but did. I moved her seedlings all over the garden. The different colors and size of bloom are breathtaking to me. That's one example. Another is Guaras which look really great in a garden. I tryed to plant them from seed; had no luck. A plant I bought on the discount rack at Lowes reseeded at it's perfect time. Now I have self-planted guaras every year. Incidentally the down side of having a garden of reseeders is that you really can't disturb the soil much or you will bury the seeds. Bob Here is a link that might be useful: Geoseed

tHANKS FOR THE NOT... oNE OTHER THING i WOULD SUGGEST IS TO ALSO TAKE NOTES ON ANY PRETREATMENT OF THE SEED SOIL TEMP COVER NO COVER ETC... THESE NOTES WILL HELP YOU AND MAY ALSO HELP OTHERS.

Yes, I agree, it is most certainly L. clethroides. Thank you so much! From what I have read, it seems to be invasive. I'm thinking about pulling it up. Although it's presence does help inhibit weeds... decisions decisions....

I agree with jeff_al (beautiful garden bed by the way!). You would be surprised at how many so-called "sun" perennials do well in shadier spots. Especially in the South where hot temps can be brutal on even hardy perennials. They may not flower in shade as much as if they received 6-8 hours of sun but they still often do bloom dependably and brighten up shady beds. Darker daylilies in particular benefit from some shade because in the sun on hot afternoons the bloom's texture and color often "melt" into a different sun-scorched color. I have darker maroons and purples planted in a shade bed and though they don't bloom as profusely as the field daylilies, the blooms themselves are much more pristine and the foliage seems happier not getting so scorched. I also second the recommendations of Hydrangea, Hellebores (Lenten Rose -- mine is blooming right now and gets full shade), and colorful foliage plants such as Heuchera and Hosta, though there are many other kinds. I used to HATE foliage plants....I was a flower-snob as a teenager just getting into gardening. After a couple of years in my own home I soon learned the value and beauty of colorful foliage as a typically seasonally longer-lasting alternative to flowers. Good luck with your shady spot.