Janet, do they have any labels with names on them? Are they all the same type of plant? Pictures would help as well as where you live; zone 7 for instance in SE seaboard USA. Not all orchids need the same conditions. Try again for answers with additional info.

bottom plant looks like a stanhopea, when it blooms, we can easily identify the species. I would soak the stanhopea and ease it off the mount and get a wire basket with coco fiber liner and filled with sphagnum moss. Stanhopea do so much better in baskets. By the size of their leaves they go through a lot of transpiration and need a lot of moisture to compensate for it. Leaving in the mount will require constant watering and not grow nearly as well. A cool thing about stanhopea is that they will bloom pointing downward from bottom of basket, so basket needs to have many openings for flower spike to push through. They are heavy feeders when in active growth and although the flowers last only a few days, a well grown plant (n a basket) can be blooming for quite a while and finally they are incredibly fragrant. I mean knock your socks off 50 feet away fragrant.... in case anyone there is allergic to plants (like I am) Pic is of a stahopea candida in basket with flower spike hanging below it, just to show how much better they do in a basket. To remove the mount, I would soak it for an hour or so, cut any retaining string or rope, then grab all the bulbs together and gently wiggle them side to side as a unit until the roots loosen off the mount. Then the bulbs can be placed on top of the sphagnum filled basket and tied with a wire through the bottom to keep it steady until it roots into the medium, then wire can be removed as plant is established into new medium.

I also have several plants that have leaves as that. Mainly, Cattleya's in all sizes not necessarily a mini Catt. I have raised orchids for years and I am a collector also. I have done everything to correct the leaf issue. I did change lights in the last few months and I also switched to osmosis water. But with all this transitioning everything was fine and all orchids growing exceptionally well. I do receive orchids from other countries and that is mainly where the leaf issues are. But again I have been doing that for years. I'm just at my whitts end on this problem. I have done everything I could think of to correct the damage but I feel now that it isn't a dehydrated or over watering issue. I feel like it has to be a fungus/bacteria problem. I have been reading constantly on different articles and still have no rhyme or reason why this is happening. Some of the plants that have the issue are outside under a hangover, where they are protected from direct sun and major heat. I currently have about 50 in this area and there is probably 4 that has this problem. I have never been on a forum before but I had just ran across your posting of the curling leaves on your orchid. Sorry for not making complete since in my wording of my problem but I'm trying to finish dinner at the same time. Please any thoughts would be truly appreciated!! And when the new young leaves come out the same way that truly makes me wonder!! Dawn

PRO AVOID MISINFORMATION tapla As a younger man, I worked in a lab for The Jergens Company, developing hand cleaners and hand creams. Even though Ivory AND Dawn dish detergents work hard to leave potential purchasers with the impression they're miraculous unctions so gentle to hands they should be applied straight from the bottle at least thrice daily, they are very phytotoxic to plants for the reasons I noted above. And it's not just the detergent that's toxic. The chemical dyes, and perfumes they contain are toxic; and the ingredient methylisothiazolinone is extremely toxic to aquatic life, as well as a skin sensitizer/irritant that causes dermatitis ........ so just how gentle CAN these dish soaps actually be to hands? Extremely high levels of sodium in sodium laurel sulphate and sodium laureth sulfate (surfactants) both contain Na (sodium) at levels toxic to plants. Vegetable soaps from natural oils (like palm and coconut oil) that contain long chain potassium fatty acids are the least offensive/toxic to plants (Safer's and other brands of insecticidal soaps), and much, much different than dish soaps. These long chain potassium fatty acid soaps are very effective on mites, but if mites are the only concern, they'd be overkill. All you need for mites is a thorough spritz of 1-2 parts of water and 1 part rubbing alcohol (the 70% isopropyl stuff) every 4 days to keep mites under control. Avoid misinformation