Hydrangea Bloomstruck!
guyground
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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Steppskie (5a/b IN)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Frost tonight and hydrangeas
Comments (3)I would plant it in its permanent position, but cover it with Agribon, Reemay, or a similar fabric held well above the plant on supports such as arched wires or capped bamboo sticks if there is a chance of frost while you will be gone. You don't have any location info, but here in New England H. macrophylla do best with morning sun and afternoon shade. Too little sun and they don't bloom well, so I wouldn't recommend the north size of the house unless you are in a really hot area and there is lots of indirect light. If you want to add location info to your profile so it posts by your name in GW posts and we don't have to ask, here's how: Go to Your Houzz in the upper right of every page, click Edit Profile, and on the left side click advanced settings. Well down the advanced settings page is a blank labeled Climate Zone for Garden Forums along with a link to find your zone. If you add info on your state or the nearest large city you will get even better information since zone only relates to average coldest winter temperatures. Then return to the top of the page and click Done Editing....See MoreBloomstruck
Comments (6)In warm locations like mine, it is very difficult to grow mophead hydrangeas in a western exposure, especially if they will get hit with afternoon sun in the summer months. You in Z5 are not as warm but, in the west side, it would be best to make sure that the leaves will get afternoon shade, little winds and plenty of moisture during the summer. Temps can also get hot in the summer when sunlight bounces off the house's walls and indirectly hit plants so inspect the location well. All that can be troublesome, especially for mopheads that typically like/need lots of water. However, things are relative. On the west side of my house, I grew a mac with golden foliage for several years. It was actually planted on the east side of a small pine tree that was growing close to the house so, the plant was both, on the west side of the house and on the east side of the small pine tree that provided it with afternoon shade. There was probably a 2-3' distance from the house to the pine tree. It worked fine for me. Eventually though, I moved it. I usually give hydrangeas more water than I give the other shrubs and, this location required that I water the plant by hand (no drip irrigation there). As you can suspect, after a few years, I grew tired of doing that just for one plant. So, I feel that west is always hard for camellias, azaleas and hydrangeas so I would not recommend it here but, you being in Zone 5, maybe... if you know that it will get afternoon shade, if direct and indirect summer sunlight is not intense in that location, if the spot does not get too hot or windy in the summer and if you can appropriately water the plant there. . If you decide to try, consider first growing it in a container so it can be easily moved. Keep it in the container for 1-2 years in the location you are considering... to see if that location 'works'. If not then just move the pot. If the plant likes the spot, consider winter protecting to get more reliable blooms....See MoreWhen planting a hydrangea, what nutrients do you add to the soil?
Comments (10)Nutrients are different from amendments. And I add neither :-) It has long been determined that amending individual planting holes is of no benefit to plants and in fact, can prove detrimental. Especially when dealing with a clay soil, as the enriched, amended soil in the planting hole absorbs moisture from rain and irrigation that is unable to drain freely because of the heavy, slower draining clay. The result is a bucket of overly saturated soil surrounding the plant roots and a very real risk of root rots. Working with your native soil is always best but if you do need to amend - and sometimes there are valid reasons to do so - amend over the largest possible area you can manage. Hydrangeas are not "heavy feeders" and do not require a lot of fertilization. I have never fertilized any of mine except those I grow in containers. But I do mulch all my plantng beds with compost each season and that adds to soil quality and provides some nutrient supplementation. You can add nutrients to fine tune flower color on macs but I prefer to wait to see how they adjust to my soil conditions first before coming on strong with aluminum sulphate or similar product....See MoreTrying to save new Bloomstruck hydrangea in this heat
Comments (5)If I was planting it so close to the summer months, I would water the soil -never the leaves- every time that the top 4" dried out: start watering the soil at the crown/base and then continue watering outwards in all directions. Then provide 2-4" of organic mulch, protect from drying summer winds and give it extra shade (like you already have). I do not know if Bloomstruck can really tolerate "extra" sun (not on year one) or if the garden center was trying to make a sale; however, you are very close to locations where some macrophyllas can tolerate unusual sun exposures. My MIL, for example, had Nikko Blue growing on the west side of her home. That would never happen in my home (Texas). The plant has a limited root system at this time so expect leaf/bloom/stem wilting during days when temperatures reach or exceed 85°F. But if the soil is moist enough, they should perk up on their own in the morning (if not, the soil was not moist enough so water them right away). In an extreme wilting event, you can either water immediately or you can extract the plant from the ground and dump it in a pail full of water until it stops throwing air bubbles. Then replant it. That should re-wet the rootball when it becomes hydrophobic and begins to repel water even when the soil is wet. The extra shade should help minimize the problem but it always sensitive to this in year one....See MoreKayla
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