Craftsman tractor/mower won't start

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

I have an old craftsman tractor/mower that was refurbished 2 years ago. I turn the key and nothing happens. It has fired without problem every time thus far. But today, nothing. I connected the battery to my car battery (car off) and still nothing. Any ideas?

Sears model 502.255290

(Like I said, old tractor)

Featured Answer

romore_gw

8 years ago

Is the brake set and the mower disengaged. If so probably a safety switch has likely failed.

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Comments (9)

javert
8 years ago
The "502" in the model number identifies it as a Murray product. Murray went belly up a few years back, and I believe I heard that the remains of the company was bought by Briggs and Stratton. Depending on just how old the tractor is, there might not BE any safety switches. I would start by removing the battery ground cable, cleaning both ends of it, then remove and clean the ends of the positive (+) cable. While you have the battery disconnected take it to an auto parts house and ask them to test it; if it's okay, give it a good charge, and if it doesn't test good buy a new one. Put the battery back in place, then reinstall the positive cable, making sure that you get good, tight connections on both ends, and then do the same with the negative (-, or ground) cable. If that doesn't cure the problem, report back with the model and serial number of the engine.
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It is possible that you have 2 different issues. It is hard to tell from your description if you are saying that the wind down noise is the noise of the starter running and if it is, is it running w/o the key switch activated. Solenoids are the most likely cause for allowing the starter to run on- but not the only one. They are not typically a fuse blower- but could be. On a 4 post solenoid one of the 2 small wires supplies a ground and the other 12 volts when the key switch is activated. If I am assuming something I shouldn't, please elaborate on what you believe the noise is.
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Thank you for the advice. I tried touching both heavy terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver, got some sparks but no movement of the starter. I checked the voltage on the battery and it is still ~12V. I connected the battery charger to the battery and got the voltage up to near 15V then tried the touching the screwdriver to both heavy terminals again. Now the starter moves a little but in a way similar to my previous tests. Could it be a bad cell in the battery even if it is putting out 12Volts (or 15 with help from the charger)? I was talking to a co-worker today about the problem and he told me that most lawn tractor batteries don't last more than 4-5 years. The one in my tractor is original and a little over 7 years old. I remove the battery every season and store it in my basement. Before replacing the battery every season, I charge it up. Given all the information you gave me yesterday and learning that my battery has lasted a few years longer than is usual, I'm back to thinking it could be the battery. Before you told me that connecting a charger directly the starter doesn't necessarily provide enough juice to turn the starter, I'm back to thinking the battery could be bad. I'll buy a new battery tomorrow because it could be the problem. Even if it doesn't fix the problem, it sounds like it's time to get a new one anyway. Thank you, Scott
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I would check all electrical connections starting first with the battery. Remove and check fluid(if not sealed battery and replenish fluid with only distilled drinking water)and put battery on a charger, unless you find battery is bad, while doing these next routine maintenance procedures, start with spraying the ignition switch with some WD-40 and just putting in key and turning on and off for at least 30 seconds to get rid of any electrical contact corrosion, then move on to the back side of ignition switch and pull off all electrical wires(remember to do this 1 plug at a time to not get wires messed up) and clean any corrosion that may of built up over the years and put on some dialectrical grease to keep moisture away. Next move to the starter solenoid and clean up all the wires there and move on to the starter wires on starter motor. What you're doing is looking for, brushing off and cleaning up, any corrosion on these wires, and to check on if there's any weak links in the electrical system and either repair or replace any wires or connectors if needed. If you do find corrosion, especially with the larger starter cables, remove them and neutralize the acids with baking soda and water mixture. If too far gone, just replace. After all this, then move on to checking spark plugs and with them being so cheap, I would just replace(don't forget to check on the air gap--don't trust factory). Clean up/replace air filter if needed and do the same with the fuel filter. These procedures will get you more into the habit of doing a process of elimination and finding and correcting future problems and saving money than taking your mower to a repair shop.
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scottmccarthy30
Original Author
8 years ago
I won't have a chance to work on it again, but I did pull and test the battery, it came back "good" with a 50% charge. I placed it on the charger. I suspected the culprit may be the switch that makes sure the brake is depressed. I'm not entirely certain how to test it or bypass it. But I'll be back once I've had a chance to get the battery back in and try again.
javert
8 years ago
I don't know specifics about your mower, but on mine the brake switch is closed (i.e. continuity between the two contacts) when the brake is engaged. But, on mine, the transmission must be in neutral and the cutting blades disengaged. In other words, make sure transmission is in neutral and the blades are NOT engaged; unplug the connector at the switch, and there should be continuity between the poles on the switch ONLY IF THE BRAKE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED. ****DISCLAIMER: I don't know for sure if this is the way your's works, but logic tells me that it probably is.
scottmccarthy30 thanked javert
tinkerer200
8 years ago
"I connected the battery to my car battery (car off) and still nothing. Any ideas?"

Yes, jump directly to the starter from your car thus bypassing all safety and other switches. You don't give your engine model number and I do not do look ups from Craftsman numbers.

Walt Conner
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romore_gw
8 years ago
I worked for the Briggs/Murray distributor, we had no lookups for the 502 series as it was old Murray-Ohio. Most parts are obsolete anyway.
Walt's suggestion will tell you if the starter works. If good you need to start working through the interlock system. With a 12v test light check for power at the small terminal on the solenoid with the key in the start position and work from there.
scottmccarthy30 thanked romore_gw
scottmccarthy30
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

I checked the fuse. Battery is charged. And I'm still SOL. Currently trying to find the limit switches so I can bypass them. Here is a wiring diagram from the manual
scottmccarthy30
Original Author
8 years ago
I never found the second limit switch, but I jumper from the back if the key switch to the solenoid, thus bypassing both switches. Mower starts. Switch that checks for blades off had already been bypassed, so I just removed it anyway. Thanks for everyone's help. I'll just make sure my foot is in the brake when I start it. Wouldn't have figured it out without all the help from the forum
rexlex
8 years ago
seat sw

Craftsman tractor/mower won't start

romore_gw

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Craftsman tractor/mower won't start

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javert

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