Yes, it has drainage holes- I left it in it's nursery pot. I put rocks/gravel at the bottom of the "decorative pot" that sits on the floor and the nursery pot sits on top of the gravel so it won't sit in water.

Teracotta pots will dry out alot faster than ceramic or plastic pots. Perhaps the plant is not getting enough water for the roots and leaves and the actually root ball is not getting wet enough. The plant looks good to me but lack of water could make the leaves droop. Water, than wait 15 minutes and water again until it comes out of the drain hole, this will ensure the plant has enough water and help salts from accumulating from fertilizer and chemicals in water.

The wilting is caused by the heat, and it may bounce back soon from part of that, not all. I see it's been 22 hrs since you posted, so this may look a little better already from just chilling overnight. However specific damage to the leaf surface is hard to tell in the photo, but you're likely to have some. It doesn't get revived or repaired, you'll need to grow new leaves to replace those. Often the full extent of the sunburn damage isn't fully apparent for days. Usually it starts as whitish areas that quickly turn yellow then crispy brown. For now, just take care of it the best you can as for a normal healthy plant. I notice some of your leaves are larger than usual for Monstera deliciosa before getting their splits. This usually means not enough light. If you can increase the light in any way, it would help in recovery. Moving closer to a window is the usual way, but perhaps in way that will give it direct sun only before 11 or after 3 pm. I'm sure you are already familiar with the dangers of sunburn! Another way is to add a floor lamp or light fixture above it for some extra supplemental light. Good growing!

Completely agree w ken~I never fertilize a plant until it’s been in my care several months bcuz you don’t know exactly what it’s recent situation was & you don’t want, or need, to over feed! It’s perfectly fine w/o fertilizing 2-3 months. I agree it looks pretty good too, not too stressed. Look into making self watering poles~the type you’re using offers support only but if the roots higher up get moisture & nutrients also, as when climbing in nature, you’ll get bigger leaves on an overall bigger & happier plant! To be honest, it’s watering needs greatly depend on how it’s been growing previously. I had a Monstera cutting I chopped after a hailstorm last summer, then dropped in a nearby bucket under a giant crepe myrtle, & promptly neglected, take off after it collected rain water a couple of times, & so, to this day it grows only in water! Lol. It was thriving as well as the mother plant in custom coco husk mix, so I didn’t see a need to change it. When I got my 1st albo cutting, it had started rooting already so I put in my usual custom aroid mix that plants love, but after a couple of weeks it just didn’t seem happy~no obvious issues but not as strong & crisp as it had been. And just didn’t seem like stress~I mean, it was overnighted. So I switched to a semi hydro set up w perlite & it perked up & took off!! Only recently, after leaving it for a year or so since it was so happy, I moved to just coco husk, bcuz they hold moisture in a similar way but a step closer to a drier substrate. If I sent the cutting I separated in dec, but already well rooted, to a buyer who planted & followed the usual “let dry out or nearly dry out first” rule, it would stress much more than if placed in a semi hydro set up. But you risk root rot, practically guarantee it, if the reverse happens. My Thai constellation came from a seller who tried aroid mix & perlite, but it only maintained~no deterioration but no growth either~until she moved it to leca in a semi hydro set up. It went quickly from 1 to 2 leaves & was working on its 3rd, so she recommended I do the same. I did, & it just split out it’s 3rd leaf since November or December. It’s growing as quickly as my albo. So that’s my very long winded way of saying~I would ask your seller what it’s previous environment was. Then, unless you’re given some specific info to follow up with, I would leave exactly as is to settle for a bit. I would look into a different pole & increase the humidity, period. Even if your humidity measures ok, an increase can only help & boost the energy available to devote solely to new growth because it has abundant moisture w/o drowning the roots. Personally, I feed my plants a fabulous mixture of nutrients added to their watering. I use something made locally but PhiloGrow, available on Etsy from the lady who makes it herself & it’s fabulous, or Liquidirt are my top choices otherwise! The perfect assistance for weak stems & growing stronger roots. No worries of burning like fertilizer but the difference is obvious. I’ve never had plants grow so much from November thru February as they have since I started using those (& switched everything to some form of my custom soilless substrate). It’s difficult to be patient when we get new plants we want to love up, but patience, ie. time to observe & get to know what’s actually needed, is often the best form of love you can provide! Good luck~