You're making a lot of assumptions! The posters WIFE told him, and then he posted. She's the only one that knows for sure, how much a "small amount" is. Compared to the fuel tank capacity, it may be a "small amount"! Maybe only a pint. Who knows for sure. What if the oil level was below the add mark? We simply don't have enough information! '"Mix 32 parts gas to 1 part oil and you have a pretty good lube"' Making that statement in a thread dealing with a 4 stroke engine is very careless. The poster is wondering what to to do and you come up with a statement like that! "The thing that always gets me on this problem is how often it happens, and how people go to the extra trouble to put gas in the oil fill, apparently overlooking the small hole and oil dipstick in the process. My conclusion is that the average person is simply not qualified to operate any motorized equipment." So is that supposed to make the OP feel better because it happens a lot, or feel bad for not being "qualified"? Nice job!

"The only problem I see is you need to mow more frequently" Yep, I agree. I had let the grass grow for over three weeks until I had the chance to address the mower issue. A section in the backyard had grown to about 10 inches high. I probably missed mowing this the last time out. "How is the Oil consumption ? Any noticeable exhaust smoke during your cutting especially when you encountered the taller sections of grass ?" First restart after adding new oil the exhaust blew white smoke for about 2 minutes. I cut grass for over an hour and did not notice anymore smoke even after a few more restarts. After coool down I checked oil level and it was down from "full" to "add oil". I added a few more ounces to bring level to full. I am curious to see if this will happen again next week. As far as testing compression, I will try again next week. Is it absolutely necessary to test compression when engine is at normal operating temperature? The last test I did I cranked the engine for about 5 seconds, the guage read 60 psi. I left the guage on for 5 minutes to see if the psi would drop, but it held consistant. I was thinking that if I did not have the tool connected securely, that the psi would have dropped over the 5 minute span. Thanks for the help!!!

I had my riding mower serviced ,I have used it about 4x and now it wont start . I had a neighbor look at it and he said it was overfilled with oil and it was probably in the spark plug, he told me if I drained some oil took out the spark plug and cleaned it it wouild probably start . do you know that this is true if it was overfield with oil . The person that overfilled it said that would not cause it to not start . Thanks

I know they are different engines and I realize you are getting frustrated, but donÂt take this the wrong way. There are common items between engines even though they are technically different. You most likely have several minor items stacked up causing a problem. With out having experience looking for these things is like trying to tell you how to find a needle in a haystack. I am not going to try and train you how to trouble shoot the engine. You might just have to take it into the dealer. That being said, some of the things talked about on the other thread are relevant. Use a flashlight to shine through the paper element, must be able to see a round pattern of light. Fuel quality. Check the carburetor bowl vent hose for blockage. Wrong sparkplugs? Champion RCJ8YÂs. What is the color of the sparkplug porcelains? Spark color blue? Disconnect and ground coil wire one at a time, does engine power change. I find it common that many people donÂt know that their engine is running on 1 cylinder. Disconnect the fuel pump pulse line going to the block, is it leaking gas? Check/verify valve adjustment. Check the compression. Coil air gap set to minimum clearance? Flywheel magnet strong? Remove carburetor bowl and inspect needle and seat, is it stuck or have trash in it? Clogged/ worn air or main jet? Not common though. These are common things that can happen to any engine. You may have more than one problem, too. SpecÂs Slow Idle (governed) 1600 ± 75 rpm Throttle Stop Screw Setting 100 rpm lower than governed setting Fast Idle 3350 ± 50 rpm Cylinder Compression Pressure (minimum) 390 kPa (57 psi) Valve Clearance (cold) 0.075 - 0.125 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in.) Valve Adjustment Screw Jam Nut Torque 6.9 Nm (61 lb-in.) Rocker Arm Cover Cap Screw Torque 6 Nm (53 lb-in.) Exhaust Valve ACR Movement (minimum) 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) Crankcase Vacuum (minimum) 25 cm (10 in.) water Oil Pressure at Fast Idle 240 - 310 kPa (35 - 45 psi) Fuel Pump Pressure (minimum) 6.1 kPa (0.9 psi) Fuel Pump Flow (minimum) 65 ml/15 seconds (2.2 oz/15 seconds) Ignition Coil Air Gap 2 - 4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in.) Spark Plug Type Champion RCJ8Y Spark Plug Gap 0.75 mm (0.030 in.) Spark Plug Torque 15 Nm (132 lb-in.)