Here, let's know what we're really discussing: On a practical note, when the adult moths will fly a couple of miles to find a mate or an appropriate host crop for their eggs, will 20 or 50 or 100 feet of isolation space make any real difference? Probably not IMHO. Your best bet is heavy use of Bt powder during the summer. I spread it around my garden on various crops about every 10 days. Alas, I admit that I do not get black swallowtail or monarch larvae in my yard, but I also don't have problems with cabbage worms or corn earworms or tomato hornworms. Unless I forget for at least a month. The beauty of Bt is that it's safe, cheap, and easy to apply. I use my "Dustin' Mizer" and do it on a windy day for maximum dispersal. Biologic warfare at its best. Here is a link that might be useful: Corn earworm aka tomato fruitworm

Hello! it is Draceana Janet Craig. Not compacta, what it looks like is inconsistent watering mixed with no humidity. What i would do is since this plant works wonderfully when pruned is you can cut this plant into 12 inch peaces and push them into a fresh pot with dirt. Water until evenly moist and allow to completely dry out inbetween waterings. This makes a fuller more beautiful plant. ALSO you can cut about 8 inches below the first leaves that show up on the stalk. it will grow new heads from the cut stalks and the bushiness of the crowns will camouflage the naked stems that were left. goodluck! and post anywhere you want:) thats what we're here for!

Thank you so much for the replies, everyone! To answer some questions: To test to see if the plant needs watering, i usually stick my index finger down into the soil and if it feels dry, i give it about 1/2 of a liter of water. I usually put the cold and hot water on equal amounts so the water is lukewarm . The terracotta pots the corn plants are in is 11 inches. There is a big issue with light in my house. I live in the middle unit in a condo so I have NO East or West facing windows, they are all North or South. The only North facing window that gets adequate light is on the 2nd floor where it is warmer, but there's no real place for the plant. I may move it up there though after what naturelover said. I never even thought about the cold that could draft in from that window. Yes those are patio doors they lead out to my backyard and are really the only source of bright light I have for my plants. So here's what I'm thinking. I probably killed this plant in many ways, not just one. I probably poisoned it with Miracle Gro (foolishly thinking it wouldn't go into shock if it had food to eat, hey that's what I'd want is plenty of food if I were moving into a new home, but I guess plants may feel differently). I probably drowned it. And then I probably froze it. Haha. Miracle it's still alive at all. This is what I'm going to do: Prune the dead, brown leaves. Soak the pot and shower my plant as breenthumb suggested. Move the plant to a warmer, non-drafty room where it will get slightly less light, but hopefully will be happier. Don't water the plant for a couple of weeks. Pray. Should I leave the pale leaves on and hope they recover? In the future, is 1/2 a liter of water too little water or "little sips" as rhizo said? Mind that these plants are about 3ft high and in a 11 inch terracotta pot. I'm at work right now, but I'll post pictures of my plants and of their new locks when I get home. Let me know if there's anything else you guys think I should/could be doing to save my little ones :) & Again thanks so much :)

If the plant was in the shade, it's doubtful that heat was much of a contributing factor to the plant's ills; and I actually think that your husband's efforts might have been a blessing in disguise. I say that because pots without holes will always become progressively limiting as dissolved solids (salts) from tap water and fertilizers accumulate and make it increasingly difficult for the plant to absorb water and the nutrients dissolved in water. The end result is a plant that dies of thirst in the middle of a sea of plenty. That you transitioned the plant to a pot with drain holes is assuredly a good thing, but the drain holes can only do half a job unless the soil also drains well. If it was my plant, I'd bare-root it (now is a very good time to do this) and repot into a durable medium I KNOW will drain well & retain its structure until it's time for another repot. You'll be quite surprised at how the plant will respond when you eliminate the old collapsed soil and alleviate the root congestion that is undoubtedly limiting its growth and vitality. LOTs of people bring me plants that have some sort of sentimental value, and the story behind their decline is almost always the same - congested roota along with a collapsed or poor soil that forces people to water in sips, which promotes high salt levels in the soil. The remedy is to bare-root and repot into a fast-draining and durable soil if I get the plant in the summer, and a scoring of the root ball and potting up if I get the plant in the winter. The later practice is only a stop-gap effort that allows the plant to limp through until the following summer when a proper repot can be done. Have you examined the roots to assess their condition (rotted?)? If you're still undecided about what to do, I'd slip-pot it into a larger pot. That is, fill a larger pot with about 4-6" of soil, then set your pot on top of that soil and fill in around the sides with more soil. The soil at the bottom of the larger pot acts as a wick & will 'pull' excess water from the smaller pot - much like the wick Jean described, but the pot-in-pot technique offers the added benefit of helping to keep the soil cooler - especially if the larger pot is gas-permeable (terra cotta or mesh, like a pond basket). Let me know if you decide to do what it takes to rejuvenate the plant. I'll ask the right questions, and guide you so there is little risk that you'll lose the plant - unless it's already infected with one of the damping off fungal infections. Al