i bought my venus fly trap in january i left it in the same lil dome but cut off the top so the plant can be exposed....i water it from the bottom so it soaks up but it seems that it is dying and lil white moss stuff is growing and little tiny insects are in the soil..(EWWWW) but anyways what should i do i live in california and its cold and i put the heater on so my room kinda gets heated and when its off i put it on top of my cable box so the little heat it gives off can keep it warmm.....any suggestions on why its dying or what i could do...

Sounds like to me that you lucked out big-time! If the whole plant is turning red, that means that it's probably a mutant form of Flytrap called Akai-Ryu, which is Japanese for Red Dragon. You should be just fine as long as your plants have adapted to their new invironment, which it sounds like they have. In the Red Dragons, the leaves turning red means that they're getting enough sunlight, which translates into a healthy, happy flytap! Full sun is recommended. Keep on doing what you're doing! Here is a link that might be useful: Backyard Bogs The Natural Alternative

Hi mukaketupat, Venus Flytraps sometimes loose traps when they get old. Is the plant still growing new traps? If it is still growing, it is probably fine. Here is a picture of what a VFT at this time of year looks like if it is grown with the seasons like a temperate. You can see how one trap is dying, but more are growing. Some things to consider about Flytraps is that they are temperate North American plants that like a lot of sun and require dormancy during winter. In Malaysia, they will do well for the summer if they are given a lot of light. If it has been in the shade, move it to a place where it can get more light. Since the plant has been in the shade a lot, you might slowly acclimate it to high light so it's leaves won't burn. Just place it in a sunny west or east window or slightly shaded patio for one week, then an even brighter, like a south facing window, or less shady place the second week, then you can put it in full sun after that. This is a picture of a trap that gets 4 40 watt florescent light tubes about 2 inches away from it. It gets some red color inside. In full sun, this plant would get very red traps and grow even faster. Humidity in Malaysia is probably not the problem. Venus Flytraps like humidity, but they can adapt to very low humidity and grow very well. If the plant has been fertilized, it's traps will start dying and the plant will slowly turn black and the roots will rot. Never fertilize a Venus Flytrap, it is too easy to kill them that way. The water sounds good. Just make sure it never dries out. They like moist soil. If the plant has been eating insects, it might be that the traps did not have enough energy to digest them due to low light. If the plant has been fed raw meat, the fat in the meat will cause the trap to die also. Venus Flytraps like a low fat diet. Most insects, like it's natural prey, flies, beetles, ants, and spiders, all have very little or no body fat at all. If the insect is too big, the trap will die too as it cannot digest all of the insect fast enough. In Malaysia, your Flytrap was bought at a mall that might not have given the plant it's dormancy requirements. A Flytrap that is not given a North American dormancy, cold winter with short winter light period of 8 hours of light from November to the beginning of February, will die within a few months or maybe a year. In tropical countries, Flytraps might just grow like an annual unless you can simulate winter for them. In North Carolina, where they are naturally found, they live for 10-20 years or longer. Ask the store you bought it at how long they had them in stock. If it was over 4-6 months ago, then the plants have not been dormant. I have to simulate dormancy for my temperates too, I live where I can't put them outside right now, so I use an ice chest. In November, start putting the flytrap in the the ice chest with a few frozen bottles of water just enought to make is cool, maybe 60 degrees, overnight for 12 hours the first week. Each week, give the plant one less hour of sun and one more hour of cool dark conditions in the ice chest at night. Make the temperature a little cooler each week by adding another bottle of frozen water down to about 50 degrees by week 3. By week 4-5 the frozen bottles should be making the tmeperature drop to about 40 degrees with he ice chest closed. During the day, just keep the plant in the ice chest and open the chest to air it out, but leave the ice in to keep the plant cold. Replace the ice every 12 hours to keep it cold too. That will make the plant go dormant for about 3 months. Just keep up all that care for 3 months and when February comes around, start to reverse the process by putting less ice bottles around the plant and giving the plant one more hour of light each week until it is warmed up and in sunlight all day again. By the middle or end of February, the plant will be out of dormancy and growing again. I noticed your from Malaysia! For me, I have to simulate Malaysia for my Nepenthes in my house. I give it long periods of florescent light and keep it warm all year and it is doing great. My Nepenthes is N. sanguinea from the mountains of your country. Here is a picture. It was just a baby with two small pitchers when I got it 4 months ago. Let me know how your Flytrap is doing.

It is hard to tell from what you are describing but I would suggest that you need to put the plants into small plastic pots. If you area is normally humid during the day leave the potted plant uncovered, covering at night with an inverted jar. these plants love brightly lit spots with some direct sun for an hour or so each day. Place your potted plant upon a larger inverted pot before watering and water with the distilled heavily. you may want to put the entire get-up into a tray in order to save the drained off water that can be used for other plants. Do not let them sit in any water. read the instructions below. Here is a link that might be useful: Care instructions