LOL, that's the craziness we all hope for! Post pics for us when it blooms, please! And make sure you do as Mike suggests and remove those rocks. They'll burn the cuttings out in the sun, and that can kill a newly rooted plant like that. You may want to be sure those plants are getting good drainage, too. Don't want them sitting in wet soil. Good luck!

Mango trees like a period of winter dormancy if they are going to fruit well the following spring. Dry winter means more dormancy for the mango tree. If you water the mango tree during the winter you get more leaf, branch and root growth and less dormancy which might be just what you want for a young 1-2-3 year old mango tree. IOW you want growth right now and not fruits. Northern fruit trees like apples, pears, cherries, peaches, apricots also need a period or winter dormancy and rest to fruit well. They go dormant due to the colder temperatures in places like New York, Michigan and Oregon. Mango trees go dormant due to winter-early spring dryness which is usually what you get in Florida. Plus is what you get in the prime mango growing regions in India/Pakistan where most Florida mangoes originate. Thai/IndoChinese mangoes like Nam Doc Mai are another matter. I think the winters are dry there but I'm not sure. My older mangoes that I want maximum fruiting from in 2012 are getting zero water right now. My young mango trees are getting water every other day. I even gave one young seedling mango (not grafted) some HD vigro fertilizer a few days ago. I water that one every second day and sometimes every day

Arnel De Lara, Of course I will. I would say when you root in soil+pot it is completely different from rooting in plastic bags - for a simple reason: when you root in a plastic bag you wet the soil inside and then close the bag wrapping it tightly around the cutting. This way the moisture has no way to "escape" or evaporate and that is why you don't need to water cuttings rooted in bags after the initial first moistening of the soil. You can just simply wait until it sprouts roots as the moisture is there all the time. (which is probably an easier method, I may use it next time). With cuttings rooted in pots the moisture evaporates and the soil dries out so from my point of view you need to make sure that the cutting has some water to work with and to keep itself alive. Of course when the cutting is fresh I would be VERY CAREFUL with how much you add, in the beginning I was literally waiting until the soil becomes COMPLETELY dry and then just literally moisten it with few tables spoons of water, then slowly moved into half a cup, full cup and now I just take them under the shower and hose them down as it is middle of summer so they do drink it up like crazy and need much more. I will insert some pictures once I have any significant difference in growth to show you guys, I may add a picture of the nice looking root system that's already developed. and yes, I would say that watering your cuttings rooted in pots is the way to go because I don't believe that leaving it to dry out completely and then hoping it will keep itself alive with no water for months is the way to go. I think rooting in plastic bags does not equal rooting in pots and different methods apply to both. My non-watered cutting was literally standing in the soil doing nothing for months once the watered one was already sprouting its 4th huge leaf. Once I started watering the second one it started sprouting too so it's enough evidence for me to continue doing it this way. I must say that the second cutting is a lot behind the first one and it also grows a bit slower because of overdrying it from the beginning.

Cuttings need bottom heat. Try heating mat, dont water till real leaves are there, you can lightly mist. And remember some varieties harder to root than others.