Thanks, Randy; I wish I could, too...perhaps I'll reconsider at some point (might see if they have anything to say about the matter at Longwood Gardens or Winterthur). In my opinion, sea buckthorn & autumn olive (wineberry, too, for that matter) have gotten bad raps (though, except for wineberry, my experience is limited to named cultivars-which, as I understand it, are named partly due to the fruit, but also for their more manageable/less invasive growth habit). You do have to watch the propensity of wineberry to tip root, but that is also the case with other rubus - jewel black raspberry, for instance. Also, perhaps it is due to a somewhat clay soil, but neither my sea buckthorns nor autumn olive (nor goji, nor aronia) - all considered "invasive" by some - have here shown no such inclination. They are all extremely healthy, both in plant & nutritional value (and larger fruit than the nonnamed varities). All these, as I understand it, are currently under scientific investigation for very high health benefit (including the possibility of fighting cancer!). I've read that the ability of the plant to fend for itself, in edible plants, is also an indication of its potential health benefit. And, there is also purslane (and dandelion (now there's an invasive alien, but also most beneficial; root, leaves & flower each have a particular use))...... Also (on a different perspective, as I (at least not yet) am not considering them as a food source) earthworms are also invasive aliens.

besides the fact they seem to be natural & well outside the "official" native range is that they are growing on bottomland soil as far as I can tell, possibly even in the Potomac floodplain! Not where you expect a "hard" maple to be! ==>>> exactly who is this 'official' who takes the time to draw up maps of of mother earths preferences???? when one relies on a government bureaucrat.. for anything... they soon find.. the bureaucrat.. has no real clue with reality ... one might suggest that the 'official' range is perhaps.. COMPLETELY WRONG ... ???? where does one go from there??? now.. as for your excitement.. and new knowledge.. all the power to ya.. i hope you do burn the gas.. to go the 35 miles.. and get some pix while you are there.. to share with us .... i dont understand why you are hesitating about the decision at all ..... GO FOR IT ... ken ps: i had the same thoughts in regard to your other post on those un-named.. OFFICIALS... changing zone maps .... if you take nothing else from these two post.... it should be.. to ALWAYS question the OFFICIAL ...

Unfortunately, I am not parting with my Black Bamboo. I've been growing it for about 15 years now. A couple of years ago when I moved, I took a clump of it along with several other species of Phyllostachys (aurea, vivax, viridis, and nidularia). I like black bamboo (P. nigra) and P. viridis "Robert young" best. The latter has very colorful, sulfur yellow culms. And although both are runners, neither seems as aggressive as P. aurea (common "Golden bamboo"). Nigra may show some leaf burn in your zone, especially the first year or two before it really gets established but in my experience this lessens with the passage of time and as the grove establishes itself and expands (creating its own little microclimate almost). Fargesia rufa and other species are locally available and cultivated but as zudzu says, they would have to be planted as separate clumps (and the expense of that really adds up). But to be frank, I really don't think any bamboo is going to deter the deer (which they NEVER seem to even consider eating). In fact, if I were a deer I would seek out the quiet shelter of an established grove of bamboo (how cooling on a hot summer day). Good luck with your grove! P.S. I also live along area dense with deer.

I will not vouche for how good these online tomatoe plant suppliers are, but it is a start for prices as they are expensive. On a local nursery location you could yellow page shop, but alot nurseries only stock hybrids now. One though that is older is Big Boy, there is an open pollinated version available from Glen Drowns in Iowa, but only as seeds. I would only offer that I know you did not want seeds, but I had to go that route several years ago for several reasons and I never regretted it as I learned I could sprout the seeds, put them immediately into the garden May 1st in my location, under a hot cap the same day and they did just fine with only watering and later caging them. It brings a great deal of accomplishment to save seeds then and start new plants each year as they "become yours". While I am trying Big Boy open pollinated this year, I was impressed last year with Red Pear, Sioux, Druzba, the mid season Oxheart, Amish Rose and for an early determinate Silvery Fir Tree for variety suggestions. Last year Fir Tree and Oxheart was sprouted May 1st and I had ripe tomatoes the first of August to the 14th. I hope that helps some. http://www.appalachianseeds.com/catalog.html http://www.selectedplants.com/ http://www.whiteflowerfarm.com/