Hi Pokerguard. The symptoms shown on your tree's leaves are not iron defiency so don't apply any more Ironite. Instead, save this product for your lawns. Lack of iron produces yellowing of the leaf tissue in between the veins, which stay green - this is called chlorosis. The damage to your trees leaves almost look like salt burn or even sunburn. How do you water this tree? To prevent salt burn be sure you are watering to a depth of three feet each time you apply water. For citus water once evey 10 day to two weeks in the summer tapering to once a month in the winter. It's hard to say how big your tree is from the photo but a citrus that has a canopy diameter of 8 feet will need about 70 gallons of water each time you apply it. A tree with a 5 foot diameter canopy will need about 30 gallons each time, while a tree with a 15 foot canopy will need 250 gallons. Citrus like to be watered deeply but infrequently. Soils that are too moist can actually prevent the uptake of nutrients, like iron and nitrogen. The best way to apply water for citrus is to construct a basin under the tree with a 6 inch earthen berm mound at the drip line (edge of canopy). Fill it with water and allow it to soak in. If the moisture isn't soaking down to three feet, fill it again. You don't say what part of Arizona you live in. The damage to your leaves could be caused from frost/freeze. It could also be caused from lawn sprinklers hitting the leaves. The water drops could freeze or also act like mini magnifying glasses in the sun and could be burning the leaves. Be sure not to overfertilize your citrus. The best way to apply nutrients is to use the holidays of Valentine's Day, Memorial Day and Labor Day to help remember. Apply 1/3 the annual requirement on these days by spreading it evenly over the rootzone of the tree and watering in well. Don't use fertilizer spikes as these tend to concentrate the fertilizer in one spot which can cause salt burn. Don't be too concerned if your tree produces flowers occasionally throughout the year - lemons often do this. The most heavy flowering will occur in March. I hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: Information on citrus

I'm on a laptop ..I don't own a cell phone people nowadays are just to "busy" their like pod people everywhere you look someone is using one..anyway I took the aeonium out of the soil and washed the roots off and pulled any dead roots I saw off it has lots of lil white roots (Dear God I hope that's a good sign) and it doesn't smell funky and the stem all the way down to the root system is strong and sturdy there was some dark coloration near the bottom of the stem but I rub it with a q-tip and it cleaned up.. Thanks Rina i'll try Houzz Photos maybe that will work for me.. Nope still nada no pic =( It worked one time and then when I tried to change the pic (I uploaded the wrong one) it wouldn't let me ..darn.. Should I spray the roots with an organic fungicide before I repot the plant just to be safe?

Hot, wet weather provides ideal conditions for fungal infections in rhododendrons prone to them. There are many, many different possibilities for the precise type of fungus causing the leaf spotting shown in the photos. Normally, such spotting is much more an aesthetic issue than a threat to the plant's overall health, but in this case it is pretty severe and spraying with a fungicide is probably warranted. The whitish residue on the leaves may be left over from a previous fungicide application. With no clue as to your location, it is impossible to recommend a particular fungicide. A nearby garden center or the place where you bought the rhododendrons should be able to help.

Mine always have that banged up look =S Luckily, they grow new leaves rather easily. I remove all mechanically damaged leaves. Here's what mine looks like now: These below have teeth marks from one of my critters. I caught the cute pup jauntily walking across the room with one of these rosettes in her mouth =O I'm letting them sit for a few days before re-potting.