Fruitgirl - I think you are right about the climate in that area. I only tried 1 kind of peach from the "Chambersburg" type since they were much more expensive to purchase than the others (even within the same market where I bought them). I don't know exactly what variety it was and the people at the market get more than one variety (depending on when it's ripe) from the Chambersburg area. So, depending on when you go to the market, one week may be one variety from Chambersburg and 2 weeks later they may be selling another variety. They also had other peaches there not from "Chambersburg" and were less expensive. I purchased some the week before I went at another local farmer's market in Ohio. They were nothing outstanding and quite boring actually. So I'm guessing that it's a particular variety that grows extremely well in that climate. How much success I'll have may depend on how different my climate is from the Chambersburg area. Although it's only a few hours away from me, I still think it's worth a try. What's odd too, is that I read online somewhere that there are only 2 peach growers from that area and neither ship their peaches. So either the market where I bought them physically went to that area to get the peaches, or they had them shipped in from a nearby area still claiming to be in the vacinity of Chambersburg. http://www.explorefranklincountypa.com/whats-new/detail.cfm?id=10 http://www.freshplaza.com/news_detail.asp?id=5760#SlideFrame_1

Ironhorsedriver, You sound like you need a little fruit growing 101. First, peach trees should only grow about 10% of their blooms. To put it another way, after the shucks come off the fruitlets, about 90% of the fruitlets need to be removed by hand. This is called fruit thinning. I know it seems counter-intuitive to manually pull fruit off, but peach trees will set about 10 times the amount of fruit they can realistically carry. If you don't thin, you end up with very small fruit, broken branches, and stressed trees. If you don't thin, the tree will naturally abort some of it's fruit in June (called June drop) but it won't get rid of enough to eliminate the problems listed above. Plant spikes are a poor value for the money. Mostly they are a marketing gimmick. If you feel your trees are poorly growing, apply a small amount of a mild fertilizer (something like 10-10-10) under the canopy of the tree. Now more directly to your pest issues: Bacterial spot and scab can cause spotty fruit, but neither disease will cause abortions. The most common insects for peaches in the Midwest are Plum Curculio and Oriental Fruit Moth. Both will cause infected fruit to drop in my area. The best way to tell if this is your problem is to cut the fruit open and look for evidence of a worm or worm tunneling. An good insecticide starting at shuck split will generally control this problem. Triazicide Once and Done liquid concentrate is a good one. You'll probably need to spray it every couple weeks (maybe less). Make sure you follow the label directions. Olpea P.S. I've always wanted to blow one of those train whistles.

You all are all right and make good points, though somewhat depressing ones in some cases (1/2 peach trees die!!!). I suspect I have learned a hard lesson about fertilizing during a dry period. I also know that many people say not to fertilize at all, but as an avid gardener who sees the benefits of fertilize to most veggies, its just so hard to convince myself that a little fertilize won't help my trees also! And yes, its also crazy as #$%* for me to be trying to mix my own pesticide concoctions and strengths. But the Japanese beetles that showed up about 2 weeks ago here are absolutely destroying everything and seem almost unstoppable so I was desperate. All in all, I think this little experience just reminds me one more time that I really have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to fruit trees and what little success I've had is mostly just good luck and following advice from the good people here. Finally, again, its somewhat hopeful hearing that MrsG has had similar situations more than once and managed to hold on to the fruit and the tree, so maybe I'll survive my own stupidity. Thanks all.

Well, in spite of my hydrangeas, maples, camellia blooms (the buds seem ok) and various perennials being toast (oh, gosh...the fern fiddleheads are mush. But I covered the hostas, and that's a whole 'nuther epic story), the roses are faring much better. Other than the ones in low-lying frost pockets, most of the roses seem to be fine, other than just the tips of new growth. Almost all of that got burnt. But the canes themselves and the majority of leaves look ok....for now. I'm sure the new basal breaks are probably damaged, but I won't know the worst for a couple of days. I do know those big, fat, glorious, *succulent* new canes on climbing Maman Cochet are goners. The roses in frost pockets are mostly big ramblers/climbers/house eaters. The majority of the plant is above the coldest air, so what damage they have won't affect the main flush. *I hope*. Only 18 more days and counting until our last frost date, lol.