There's an excellent discussion further down the page on TYLCV, and I didn't know we had some experts on board here now. That's very good to see. (I don't recall any a couple of years ago.)

Leaf curling alone is a physiological condition caused by stress; it's common in stressed plants, including young plants which don't have the root system to support all their foliage yet, or in times of unusually bright sunlight. If you get it by itself, look to see what may have stressed the plant recently; often it's nothing to worry about. The wilting, dead green leaves symptom resembles bacterial wilt, but that's pretty rare in your neck of the woods, and tends to take the whole plant down very rapidly. Stem borers can sometimes do it; look for little holes in the affected stems. Look for any damage to the stem, in fact. With the yellowing and necrosis -- it's hard to see in that small a photo, but it looks like the dark lesions are following the veins. That's diagnostic of a toxin of some kind -- no virus I know of does that in tomato, no bacterium or fungus is that specific, and no deficiency kills the veins before the interveinal spaces. I've seen a symptom almost identical to that in a case of alcohol poisoning (someone had a cocktail party in a library foyer and apparently the drinks weren't very good, as the potted plants looked pretty rough afterward). It was an unusual enough symptom that it became a teaching example. Toxins can come from outside or from the soil. Pyola is perfectly safe for tomatoes, and the heat wasn't excessive, but make sure the dilution was correct, as too high a concentration can burn leaves much like that. Spray damage can also cause wilted and dead green leaves. If you can sacrifice a plant that's badly affected, dig it up to look at the roots, see whether it has lots of crisp, white, fine roots, not dark or knobby ones. Shave away the skin at the soil line to look for discolorations in the woody stem underneath; cut open wilted green shoots to check for hollow centers from stem borers; and finally split open the main stem to see whether it's hollow or discolored inside. I don't expect much except maybe root symptoms, but you really never know. My personal guess is soil toxicity, especially given that the lower and terminal leaves are the worst affected by the yellowing and dying, and some things take a while to build up in the leaves enough to kill them. One important thing to note is that not all toxins are synthetic chemicals -- an excess of certain minerals or nutrients can poison a plant. pH affects root uptake of anything enormously, especially minerals, but it can have its own effect as well. You may need a soil test -- call your Agriculture Department, Cooperative Extension, or U of O to find an affordable lab. I don't see your symptoms in any of the common nutrient toxicity listings, though, which means it could be something chemical, and there is no general panel for that. Down here in California I'd send it to Sacramento's Plant Diagnostics lab or the extension pathologist at U. C. Davis, but I don't know what pathologists you have at your disposal. This is certainly not a cut-and-dried common disease problem, and even a specialist is going to need some lab work to figure it out, I suspect. I wish I had more answers for you, sorry. --Alison

The plants in self-watering containers and in 5-gallon grow bags are both exhibiting the leaf roll. However, I do have 2 5-gallon grow bags that have plants in partial shade which do not exhibit leaf roll and are just as big, if not bigger, than those in the self-watering containers. I'm thinking the leaf roll may be root stress related. Either the 5-gallon containers/bags have become too small, the container gets too hot thus stressing the roots, or the potting soil has finally compacted and isn't delivering enough oxygen to the roots. I have tomato plants in raised beds as well and I haven't noticed any leaf roll with them. I have noticed a few had yellowing leaves w/brown spots (3rd picture), however.

simmran1, thanks for the compliment on the pics. i've been through the tomato problem solver so much now i think i've got those pics memorized :) didn't help much here, but definitely a good resource. Dave, we did have a brief aphid visitation on our tomatoes earlier this month (among other plants...artichokes and pomegranates) a light pruning and spot sprays of insecticidal soap seems to have taken care of that. nothing noticed on the peppers... no spider mites either. we did have some ladybugs show up around aphid time :) yay! over watering was a concern earlier but we've gone from twice a week to once a week, based on the earlier leaf curl symptoms. checking with a moisture meter confirms this, the root zone was 'wet' even after quite a few days. hence the previous leaf curl on lower leaves 'overwatering' stress. in AZ i think we tend to overwater, just cause it's a desert really ;) but looking objectively, our beds have really great soil, mulched heavily and temps have only been avg. in the high 80's lately. (although we did hit 102 yesterday!!) again, I'm leaning toward under fertilization/overwatering. we've only been giving light fish emulsion and seaweed 2x/month. (after a good planting with chicken/cow manure compost) which would give a great start like we've had. i agree with you on nutrient deficiency first/ disease process later. so we'll see how this latest fert. works over the week. now for more questions if people don't mind :) Is 1 TBS/gal sufficient mgs04? i've seen recommended up to 4 TBS/gal. err'd on cautious side.... (what i most want to know) will the affected leaves correct soon or should i judge by new growth? I'm not worried about the old curled growth, thats been there for while. but the new growth yellowing and curling worries me a bit. fruit production seems right on track for all varieties. do i ride out the symptoms and get what fruit matures or cull the plants and spare the other healthy ones? ahh... the suspense of gardening!! will monitor over the next week! :) we have had major aphid infestation on our brussels sprouts on the bed next to these. we've been gradually feeding the greens to our chickens. i'm a bit hesitant maintaining a 'pest resevoir' like this just for sake of chicken feed. I would mostly prefer to uproot and toss...please advise. my feeling is to just get rid of them, but dont' want to waste resources if aphids and plants are better in the stream for chickens rather than compost. upcoming... i did notice whiteflies on some of our youngest 'tumbler tomatoes', they're in a basket and doing great so far. thanks and look forward to any more insights and wisdom:) rob