Labeano - the initial advice that Jefe gave is good advice. His comment immediately above is also spot on. If you use a soil that is well aerated and primarily composed of ingredients that don't break down quickly (pine bark, Turface, crushed granite, perlite, pumice ....., it will be very difficult to over-water, a primary reason for gnat infestations. In addition, the slow decomposition of the organic component (pine bark) is unlikely to support much in the way of gnat numbers unless you work very hard at over-watering. A high % of fine organic components in the soil, especially those that decompose quickly, and organic fertilizers like fish/seaweed emulsion can also cause an explosion in soil borne pest populations (promotes algae growth, too). Mike also makes a good point. I would consider very carefully whether it is wise to use a "chemical garden bug killer on top of the soil", as was intimated upthread. It's probably best to accurately identify the actual pest, and then use the least offensive remedy that includes your pest in its net of effectiveness to bring the numbers of pests back to an acceptable level, or eliminate them. There are MANY chemicals that are used in outdoor applications that are wholly unsuited to, and too dangerous for, indoor use. Al

Anna When I moved here I was introduced to the famous gardener from the neighborhood, she told me we can't grow tomatoes here, it is just impossible! I am glad I didn't listen. On the other hand we all have trials and tribulations with the tomatoes, no matter where we live. Nobody is a "miracle worker" who produces perfect tomatoes all the time. So, we have to work with whatever we have. And start to make a plan. 1. Throw the old and start fresh, don't reuse soil, recycle it instead. Wash the pots through, I use soap and water. The bigger the pots the better. Use a good draining potting soil mix. A lot in the market, later on you can make your own. 2. Try to pick different varieties that are determinate, indeterminate, and fruit at different times. Florida 91 is determinate, once it gives fruit it goes. If you had more varieties you could still have tomatoes. 3. Try to grow the seeds yourself, it is too many variables and poor selection at the big box stores. Let me know if you want a starter seeds for tomatoes. I can share a lot of varieties with you and if they don't work for you, at least you don't end up with a packet full of seeds. If you are interested send me an email with your address. 4. Once you have your seedlings up and running, it is important to have them on a weekly schedule to control bugs or diseases. I only use substances that don't harm my pets or the environment. I was told in Phoenix from a chemist friend not to use ironate on edibles that is very toxic. I don't use coffee grounds on pots either because attracts bugs and can get moldy. I use everywhere else in the garden. And the last words to everybody, don't give up. Everything is possible and we will all succeed (even those that have the tomato diseases now, like Corrie and Denise) By the way I love my currant Hawaiian tomatoes that I use to grow them in Phoenix ( I was told there too that is impossible to grow tomatoes there and I probed them wrong when I gave them baskets full of tomatoes (heirlooms, hybrids, currants) Willy

Hi Steve It is probably not as bad as you think, if you still have tomatoes on the vine, there is the possibility that at least you will have a harvest no matter how the plants look. Since you already tried the copper and the milk and did not help, there is an organic fungicide that can be used as a foliar spray or drench in the soil, it is called Actinovate, it is expensive and not readily available. I found it at Ace one time, a hydroponics store or the internet. However I am not saying it is a cure all product, it is just something else to try... You already cut the damaged leaves, just have to keep trimming and keeping on eye, if possible put the infected plants separated from the rest. With the strange weather that we had we can expect a lot of disease and bugs this season. Silvia

The beetles, which look like lady bugs are squash bugs. They like squash, sometimes cukes depending on the cuke leaf and that's pretty much it (tiny red ones like that are bean beetles). I've personally never had a stink bug bother my fall vegetables, but I never know. One year they thought yard long beans were all the rage. This year they land on every tomato in the main garden, but apparently dislike anything in the temporary garden? So go figure? I doubt they will like your leafy greens though. They tend to like squishy things with some "give" (such as almost but not totally ripe tomatoes) that they can stick a probiscus in and suck. Annoyingly.... grrmmmm For your own piece of mind you can plant and put some Diamotaceous earth down, but I bet in a day or two your bugs will have vacated the premises for greener pastures (but don't send them here!!!) What's this about cold winter frosts killing bugs. We had a cold winter, this is the worst bug year (ants, cockroaches, palmetto bugs, stink bugs....) ever.