Bought used riding mower w/ engine trouble. 21 hp intek plus b&s (could not determine model etc on engine, shroud, inside of hood). Craftsman 2000 42". Will crank in choke but only for 10-15 secs. Will not run out of choke. Tried everything me and 3 neighbors could think of. Today I did comp test w/ only 30psi....should be around 120 on 3 yr old engine. What should I do to fix the compression problem?

Well let's get the old thread rippin'... I use and abuse the predators.. #1 Get some Dura-lube put 1/2 quart in the engine then top off with good synthetic. I've noticed over the years they "small engines" hold less oil for factory fill levels. So you might jus figure a 50/50 Duralube/Good synthetic. The engine will run a whole lot cooler causing less wear. #2 use only non ethanol gas if possible. People from California can figure it out themselves or move. Add "mechanic in a bottle" it's a cheap fix for the under sized needle valves and jets. #3 store in a semi clean dark area. This helps keep the fuel from turning. Always use fresh gas. A good adaptive like stabil, marvel mystery oil, sea foam, or mechanic in a bottle is a must. #4 if you plan on having the engine a while buy an extra carb and 2 or 3 primer bulbs. #5 add a fuel filter in line. Yes your tank gets trash or chemical break down as well as the lines corrode too. Your local boat shop will carry ethanol and alcohol resistant line. It ain't cheap but you'll save a Shit load of time and labor. These comments on cart guys need to say change your rings weekly and change the bearings at most monthly.. Re grind "seat" valves weekly.. Carts can take a 5hp and push ^ 100mph on asphalt.. Don't forget Toleson in carb $250-300... Then get the adjustable carb for on the fly just couple hundred more... New copper headgaskets help with the new found cylinder head pressure... Also heat treat the valve springs for more tensile strength.. Drop 5 to 10g's in a very average cart and run in Minden Louisiana. Nationals for gocarts. Hope I helped somebody... Did I mention Dura-lube... Give it a try in any small engine.. You'll be surprised..

"using catch can, test for fuel flow to carb inlet by cranking engine. Be careful of fire." I would point out this will do no good as the engine has a fuel pump built into the carb. As mentioned way back up on this very old thread, check the vacuum impulse line from the engine block to the fuel pump. This will be the bottom line, gas line is on the side IF you took the fuel pump apart, did you find and properly replace the 2 tiny springs? I can send you a Service Manual for the engine IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me the engine model number and what you want. Walt Conner wconner5 at frontier dot com

The good news is that my mechanic neighbour took another look and concluded that although the wiring description that came with the new engine and that I wrote down above, didn't work and produced the 17 volts, connecting the orange to orange should, but not just because of the colours. Lo and behold the meter went to about 14.3 volts (in the green on the meter) and stayed there. I went out and cut for an hour and so far so good. I checked again with the meter and it was staying at 14.3. Go figure. I hope the problem doesn't repeat after some more hours but I'll keep a close eye on it. I'm also going to see if I can get a volt meter for the tractor. I'm still concerned that if the problem reoccurs as it did after 5 hours on the first replacement regulator that it may yet again so I'm going to keep all of your comments for future reference and perhaps I should also have a good technician make the checks you suggested. Mownie ... If you send me your email address to Canadave@ripnet.com I'll call Briggs and ask them to send you the electric schematics. I'll also have them CC them to justalurker and ericwi if you two are interested and send me your email addresses. In the meantime I can't say enough about how helpful you guys have been and thank you profusely (if that's the right word). How about discaboobishly? I can't say enough about this site and not just because of your help on this issue. This site made the recommendation to buy a Simplicity based on my requirements of cutting about 5 acres. At the time I was a city boy who had retired to paradise on a 6.5 acre waterfront property in cottage country NE of Kingston Ontario from the corporate life in Toronto and I knew squat about boonies stuff like garden tractors. I believe that God invented the Yellow Pages for guys like me. They made the right suggestion and have been very pleased with my Simplicity Conquest. I can't complain about this problem because poop can happen on a 10 year old tractor. I have always tried my best to take good care of it in fact a handy man was over recently to do some work on my interlocking brick lower deck and congratulated me on getting a new tractor. While I was getting the second regulator installed by a local guy who works on cars and garden tractors, a guy drove up and without knowing the story stated that it was a shame that I was having a problem with a new tractor. I try hard to convince myself that if I can keep my tractor immaculately clean then I must also be a mechanical genius. A recommendation from this site to contact Small Engine Warehouse for a good price on a replacement Vanguard engine when the mice ate the original one saved me $670 dollars which can easily buy several gallons of booze and about 800 crack whores but my wife would only let me use it buy new underwear and take her out for dinner.