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dreamoftheflood

Briggs & Stratton OHV Intek Hard Starting

dreamoftheflood
16 years ago

I am another of the seemingly many people fighting the hard starting problem with a Briggs & Stratton OHV Intek I/C engine (in my case, a 28N707 15.5 HP model). I have read many posts on the forum about adjusting the valves, and I have adjusted the valves. I have done this many times, but the engine continues to resist starting. I have watched the valves with the cover off, and both valves are moving strongly on their respective strokes. One thing I do not see is any kind of "bump" in the exhaust valve for the compression release. My understanding of the compression release for these engines is that it is driven by the exhaust lobe of the camshaft--that a small bump on the exhaust cam briefly lifts the exhaust valve during the compression stroke to relieve compression pressure. Am I correct? If so, mine isn't doing it. I have even tightened the exhaust rocker down until the exhaust valve is hanging slightly open and then turned the engine by hand. The valve moves strongly during the exhaust stroke, but otherwise not at all. I think this is my problem, but I don't know how to proceed from here.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Troy Hunt

Squalor, Austin, Texas

"That government is best which governs least." -- Thomas Jefferson

Comments (92)

  • zabella
    13 years ago

    21 HP Briggs & Stratton ELS Twin OHV in a Husky Lawn tractor. Have oil leaking from one of the fins on cylinder head. No real compression loss to speak of but I still suspect head gasket. I am a novice and am having trouble figuring out how to remove valve springs. They do not look like keyhole retainers. Do I need a spring compressor and are the retainers the auto type that have to be taken out with a special tool? I need to get the head off replace head gasket and need to remove valve springs and valves (I think)any help greatly appreciated.
    Thanks

  • tomplum
    13 years ago

    " I need to get the head off replace head gasket and need to remove valve springs and valves (I think)" Best to ask that question ahead of time. In short, no leave the valve springs on the valve. You should either remove the rocker or push down on the spring end so the push rod can be removed. Put the rod back in and set the valve lash after torquing the head back down. I suggest starting a new thread and posting model and type #s if you need more help. You may want to pull the shrouding to get a good look at the leak so that you perform the correct repair.

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  • denisnb
    13 years ago

    I had the exact same problem on my 28n707. I had adjusted the valves many times insuring a .oo4 on intake and .006 on exhaust. I continued to have compression release problem. I finally adjusted the intake a 1/4 turn more toward .003 and lo and behold the thing fired up like a new one. I guess the .003 to .005 was a range, not a absolute.

  • mownie
    13 years ago

    ***"I guess the .003 to .005 was a range, not a absolute."***
    OR.......it may reflect a number of variables including the accuracy of the feeler gauges used and the ability of the user to feel the correct clearance. Not chiding here, just saying that there is required a certain degree of experience with the "basic type" of plain feeler gauges.
    "Stepped", or "Go-No GO" feeler gauges are better for a novice, but most would balk at the cost of this type gauge.
    A dial indicator can be used instead of feeler gauges, but here again, cost and complexity could be a drawback.

  • Mikewfox_gmail_com
    13 years ago

    I have a 14.5 ohv bs l/c quiet model#287707 type 1272_e1. I have replaces starter,solenoid,batt. And still cant this thing to start. When I put it up at end of season it was fine ,but now cant start it with all new parts. It has power all the way to starter but not enough power to turn mower maybe to much compression, but I removed spark plug and same thing the starter engages to motor but cant turn over any suggestions?

  • mownie
    13 years ago

    If it still does not spin the engine with the spark plug out, I think it's safe to safe that compression does not have a role in your problem.
    Have you tried to turn the engine by hand with the spark plug out?
    If you are unable to turn the engine by hand with the spark plug out, something really bad has happened to the engine.
    Try turning the engine by hand. See if it will turn either direction.
    If the engine turns a bit in either direction and then stops, you need to pull the valve cover and inspect for something wrong there first.

  • David_Entercomp_com
    13 years ago

    I had a similar problem on my yardman. I turned it on it's side to replace the blade. When I turned it back over I tried to start it. The starter bumped but would not spin the engine. After reading this post I took the plug out and had some oil come out. I tried the starter and the engine turned over fine spitting some more oil out. I decided to leave the plug out for a couple of days and try it again. What do you guys think?

  • mownie
    13 years ago

    If you have already spun the engine with the plug removed, and expelled the oil from the cylinder, it is safe to try cranking the engine to see if it will start. You might need to clean the oil off the spark plug (or just buy a new one) as oil fouled spark plugs can sometimes have trouble tossing a spark across the plug air gap. Make sure the oil level is up where it should be.
    And........expect a good deal of blue smoke out the exhaust until all the oil gets burned out of the muffler.

  • joesloop_hotmail_com
    13 years ago

    I need the valve adjustment procedure. I am experienced in adjusting VWs and Fiats....should be able to do a Briggs--I hope!

    BUT, Walt, your email keeps rejecting me. ... wconner5 at verizon dot net (correct format of course).

    I have an 18 hp ohv Intek, Family Y: YBSXS.5012.VP on a Craftsman LT1000 model #917.273396 electric start 42" ridiing mower.
    Thanks,
    Joe

  • mownie
    13 years ago

    Walt' new e-mail is
    wconner5 at frontier dot com (usual format rules of course).
    Sorry Walt, I hope you don't mind.

  • gardennutjoe
    13 years ago

    Thanks for Walt's new address Mowie!

    But I got it done. The first time I looked at it I didn't find the lock screw. I'm used to seeing lock-nuts. But when I found it was a screw in the end of the shaft I adjusted the valves and it starts and runs great! Thanks for all the info.

    Joe

  • ben_trailgraphics_com
    12 years ago

    This thread got me pointed in the right direction... Just as I was about to send Walt an email, came across this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjzX-PUjKmo
    Fixed! Thanks for the help folks!

    Here is a link that might be useful: B&S Valve Adjustment Video

  • sleblanc567_gmail_com
    12 years ago

    I have a Briggs & Stratton 14hp OHV model No.287707 Type.1224-E1 Engine, Yard machines tractor. It was running running a little rough so thought I'd give it some TLC. Took the fly wheel off not knowing it didn't have points and condensers. Didn't knock the Ignition module at all. Went to fire tractor back up, it keeps spinning but won't start. It "Pops" out of the air filter like it is back-firing. New spark plug too, even placed a spark plug tester to make sure Plug is receiving power and it is. Ran fine before, wasn't a LOT of fuel in the tank and it was stale, but just doesn't seem to want to Lite. Try a different brand of spark plug and fresh fuel? Never had these troubles and figures try to give it TLC to run better and now won't start.. Any suggestions appreciated!

  • mownie
    12 years ago

    Sounds to me like you used improper technique to remount the flywheel and its key, and probably did not torque the flywheel retainer nut enough. So the engine is now out of time, and may have sheared the flywheel key.
    Use only a genuine Briggs key for this.
    Proper way to remount flywheel and key: Wipe the crankshaft flywheel tapers with clean cloths, do not oil the tapers.
    Carefully set the flywheel down on the crankshaft and align keyways in crank and flywheel.
    Very carefully insert the key into the keyway, you can jiggle the flywheel a little here if it helps. When the key is started into the keyway, gently tap the key to help it seat. You can stop when the key is just flush with the flywheel surface, or just 1/16" above it.
    Place washer (if used) and nut on the crankshaft and torque the nut to 100 foot pounds.

  • taffybuffytag_yahoo_com
    12 years ago

    need procedure on how to adjust valve and how to tell which is the intake and exhaust

    model---287707

    type---015301

    code---9305064a

  • rcbe
    12 years ago

    see link

    Here is a link that might be useful: B&S Valve Adjustment Video

  • b_lmorphis_yahoo_com
    12 years ago

    I recently worked on my neighbor's Intek engine with the same problems. I have to agree with the Kholer fans. I have a Snapper mower and a Husky mower with Kholer Command engines. One is about 20 years old and the other about 13 years old, both have OHV. I haven't had to adjust either of them. Simply change oil and filters.

  • robradatz97_yahoo_com
    12 years ago

    14.5 ohv b&s motor.Got it for free cuse it wouldnt turn over.Installed new battery and a couple taps on the starter and it turns over.It is backfiring LOUD out of the carb.I cleaned the carb and pulled the valve cover off and seen nothing visually wrong.Whats next?

  • mownie
    12 years ago

    It's always best (and courteous) to include the specific engine model number AND type number taken from the engine itself.
    But, you say it is OHV and that a look under the valve cover shows nothing obviously wrong.
    With the backfiring it will pay to remove the flywheel and check for a sheared key.
    If key is found sheared, use only a genuine Briggs key to replace it.
    Flywheel must be torqued to 100 foot pounds or it will soon shear again.

  • kmc24_hotmail_com
    12 years ago

    Briggs 17hp Turbo-Cooled Intek 311707 0132-E3 00040426

    The flywheel, on the above engine, isn't retained by a nut...the top of the crankshaft is tapped and the f'wheel is retained by a bolt/washer.

    The top of the crankshaft is inset, somewhat, and lies about half-an-inch below the top face of the f'wheel boss.

    If I were to follow the above instructions, and insert the key flush, or above the face of the f'wheel, the bolt/washer would push the key down, flush with the face of the f'wheel.

    In either case, the key would be only partially located in the f'wheel groove ( about 1/4 of the key).

    So, shoud the key be pushed down flush with the top of the crankshaft?

    Isn't 100 ft lbs rather a lot of force? Does this torque figure apply to an engine with the BOLT, as opposed to a nut?

    Thank you for any information or suggestions you may make.

  • mownie
    12 years ago

    Briggs shows the same key part # is used across a wide range of engines, but some IPLs show the number as 222698 while others show it as 222698S or 222698s).
    The IPL for the 311700 series lists it as 222698s. I don't know if there is a difference in the length of the key depending on whether the part # has the s suffix or not.
    I don't recommend you try to seat the key flush to the bottom of the recessed pocket, it wouldn't stay there even if you could get it down that far with nothing to capture it.
    Might be a good idea to e-mail Briggs on this aspect of the operation.
    They have a "contact us" provision at their web site.
    Also, it appears that all 31 series engines use a bolt to secure the flywheel, but the torque chart refers to "flywheel NUT", so I'm thinking perhaps the term nut is simply a "hold over" from other applications.
    Whether the threads are internal or external does not matter, the diameter of the threads is what counts.
    If the threaded portion of the bolt measures to be 1/2" (or approx 12mm), the torque spec of 100 ft. lb. will apply.

  • waterwheelman
    12 years ago

    I have a Craftsman riding mower with a 18.5 hp Intek Plus engine, model 31P777, Type 0348E1, Code 040310ZE.
    I have adjusted the valves .04 and .06 but still can't get the engine to turn over enough to fire. When it finally does turn one complete cycle, it backfires through the carb. I don't know, maybe I'm adjusting incorrectly - It's seems difficult to determine what is 1/4" beyond TDC.
    I also suspect the compression release is not working correctly but I don't how to check it.

    Any help would be appreciated

    jgordon@centurytel.net

  • mownie
    12 years ago

    E-mail sent.
    If further help is needed, PLEASE CREATE A NEW THREAD.
    This thread is getting too populated to serve as a discussion platform now.

  • mownie
    12 years ago

    Well, I sent e-mail and got a delivery failure notice.
    Send me an e-mail if you want my outline on Briggs valve adjustment.
    Use the forum member profile to get my e-mail address.

  • dbkh
    12 years ago

    FYI: In response to one of the first posts in this thread.
    Apparently some cams are designed to have a small "open" bump in the exhaust valve just after the intake valve closes on the compression stroke. As seen in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbj4wk5YbnY
    Don't know if this is on cam or a CR arm.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Link

  • brkndown1
    11 years ago

    Howdy, I've been reading this forum, and it sounds like I may have a similar problem as some of you have mentioned. I've got a cub cadet with a 21 hp intek model 331877-0036 type G1 code 1012282D. The mower shop I bought it from said the engine only has 6 hours on it. It does look new, but I've only used it about 3 hours and now I'm having trouble starting it. It sounds like it may need the valves adjusted, as it will turn over with the plug out, but barely cranks with it in. Does anyone have a manual or any helpful advice on whether this is something I could tackle?
    I'm fairly good at fixing things, I used to rebuild pumps for a living and have done a lot of my own mechanical work.
    My e-mail is sra4137@netzero.com Thanks if you can help

  • marcobee
    11 years ago

    i recently purchased a used Murray riding lawn mower...it worked awesome with no problems i stored it for 3 weeks...i quick jump (battery died due to weather)...and started right up...BUT I DID NOTICE WHEN I STARTED it, THE ENGINE I SAW SPLASH OF LIQUID SHOT OUT OF THE FRONT (NEAR SPARK PLUG AREA...
    i stopped and attempted to restart...it started..no problem...ran for about 10 minutes on med idle....then i started to mow, when after 15 minutes...started to struggle then white smoke then off......i waited a few minutes, started after 5 minutes white smoke and OFF...
    in the past i had that problem, someone said to check oil take some out....and it was fine.....now the oil level was fine....but i noticed my muffler or the exhaust pipe (which is LOUD) was pretty much off (couldnt tell cause because heat shield was holding it in place- didnt have tools with me to check it out...would this be a problem for oil residue coming out? and wite smoke and turning off?
    need some help on this....
    i thank you all in advance for any idea how to tackle this ...thanks again!!!!!!

  • Red01
    10 years ago

    OK here we go.
    I run a small engine repair shop and have run into this problem on both Kohler and B+S engines.
    If its a gravity feed fuel tank as opposed to a fuel pump system check the oil level. If the oil level is way up the dipstick you have fuel leaking into the cylinder and you can't compress liquid. remove the spark plug and crank the engine, do not stand in front of the engine as you may get sprayed with gas. If this is the problem replace the needle valve and seat [if applicable] in the carb and install a fuel shutoff in the gas line. Change the oil and filter and make sure you shut the fuel off after each use.
    If this is not the problem remove the valve cover and check the valves and rocker arm studs for looseness while the piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke. If one or both are loose remove both rocker arms and remove both push rods to see if one or both are bent due to backfiring. Do not mix them up when reinstalling as the exhaust pushrod is steel and the intake is aluminum. If all is well reinstall and adjust the valves as follows. Turn engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE with a long rod or screwdriver inserted in the spark plug hole until the piston is at TDC, continue turning counter clockwise until the piston is 1/4 inch below TDC. This disengages the decompression mechanism.
    Loosen the torx set screws located in the rocker arm nuts, adjust valve lash to engine specs with a feeler gage and tighten the set screws to torque specs,
    crank the engine to see if this has solved the hard starting problem ,if it has ,reinstall valve cover your done.
    hope this helps ,
    Red

  • mownie
    10 years ago

    All good info except about how push rods get bent.
    Neither backfire nor afterfire will bend push rods.
    Push rods get bent when there is a mechanical obstruction to movement in the valve train.
    Obstruction to movement may be due to a valve seat coming out of its bore, a valve guide coming out of its bore, or when a valve sticks to its valve guide allowing the push rod to get caught on the edge of the rocker arm ball or cup.

  • bill_kapaun
    10 years ago

    You can usually tell somebody just signed up when you see year+ old threads surface.

  • wheely_boy
    10 years ago

    At least someone came here yesterday and posted something. Time to go back to the Vidalia Onion Forum.

  • zxcvsteve
    9 years ago

    hello guys, I have a husky with a
    tractor with a briggs intek 18.5 motor.only two years old. it will turn over but wont fire. I took the plug out and sprayed some pb blaster small engine tune up spray in there and it will run on that till its gone. I have the air cover off and when I turn it over gas sprays out where the air should go in. What does that mean? any ideas? thanks

  • tomplum
    9 years ago

    zxcv, you should really start an new thread w/ proper engine #s .Seeing as though it wants to run w/ the presents of your cleaner, it could be water/ debris in the carb, no fuel or a funky anti backfire solenoid. If it really isn't running, just kind of making noise/ backfiring it could mean that you have a rocker issue, loose exhaust seat or sheared flywheel key.

  • crw9
    9 years ago

    Can you still operate a briggs 24 hp mower with a blown exhaust valve? Noisy but still runs,154 hrs. And 8 years old don't know whether to fix or buy new.

  • Roger Ogden
    9 years ago

    Hey Gents, Ive been all over the web and on forums hopefully this will be the wnd of the maddness haha.. Anyhow i have an LT1018 CUB CADET with the 18.5 ELS 500 B&S. MODEL# 13AL11CG712.. i am looking for a SRM OR WORKSHOP MANUAL either or IF their is any differance, already have the IPL but i am wanting to do a complete rebuild of the motor.. Already have most of the New OEM parts to get me started just looking for repair manual now... I can be reached at ogden1371@gmail.com or rgrusmc1371@gmail.com

    Any help or input would be greatly greatly appreciated.. Thank You

    Fallujah Vet

  • Jered Rabren
    9 years ago

    Make sure throttle cable is closing choke all the way .My sister bought one with 22hp intel and had been hard starting since new,look at it today and cable just needed to be adjusted so it would close the choke.

  • Bud Dinwiddie
    8 years ago

    replaced headgasket on 17.5 briggs. To clean piston I brought it to top. after putting tne head gasket and putting back together it now backfires thru carb and oil coming from muffler . Did I mess up by moving piston?

  • Derek Savanella
    8 years ago

    I've been looking for that bump too but seem to have found one in the intake valve. I've had a tough time starting mine since day one as well. Just adjusted the valves again and it started very easily. However, once it warmed up sputtered and coughed and the only way I got it back to the garage is by alternately choking it. Any ideas?

  • rexlex
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    savanella - chk to see that yer afterfire solenoid at carb is working. If so, may hafta do a carb overhaul (cleaning) unless you have disturbed the flywheel..

  • keever0117
    7 years ago

    Looking for detailed valve adjustment instructionsfor briggs 25 hp Intek Model #445777; Type:0231 21 ; Code#03081413. Thanks, in advance for your help!

    keever01@yahoo.com

  • tinkerer200
    7 years ago

    I can send you a Service Manual for your engine IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me engine model number and what you want.


    Walt Conner

    wconner5 at frontier dot com

  • David Gray
    7 years ago

    I have the hard start problem with my 24HP craftsman model 445677-0413-E1. I am going to adjust the valve but how do I find Top Dead Center?

  • Dale Golding
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Bought used riding mower w/ engine trouble. 21 hp intek plus b&s (could not determine model etc on engine, shroud, inside of hood). Craftsman 2000 42". Will crank in choke but only for 10-15 secs. Will not run out of choke. Tried everything me and 3 neighbors could think of. Today I did comp test w/ only 30psi....should be around 120 on 3 yr old engine. What should I do to fix the compression problem?

  • Dale Golding
    7 years ago

    Opps just noticed last guy posted in on July 4th 2016 and hasn't got any comments of help since then and it is August 25 today.


  • ssewalk1
    7 years ago

    Check valves for proper valve lash setting or obvious worn seat or cut valve . Compression , inspect for excessive carbon on sparkplug which indicates carbon within internal engine components . Could be stuck ring , or just tired ? In future better to start New Thread Bro !

  • Dale Golding
    7 years ago

    sstracker1 thanks for the help....I will see how to start a new thread next time...sorry about the disparaging remark

  • ssewalk1
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    No Problem Dale , Just a footnote , also look for any oil from the head area could also be a blown head gasket , get back to us once all has been inspected , should you need any further help !

  • Dale Golding
    7 years ago

    I think I now did set up a new thread thru forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/tractor....but can't seem to find it on this site

  • ssewalk1
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Your There ! The heading will move around when comments are made lol !

  • Duane Cronquist
    6 years ago

    Ok. I have a Briggs and Stratton 17.5 Power Built it turns over real hard. Take out the spark plug to check compression and it turns over like new, put the spark plug back in it turns over hard. Any ideas on what it might be?

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