2nd floor Take 2 or is it 200?
mary8153
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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Can 1 AC Unit Cool 1st & 2nd Floor of 200 yr old house?
Comments (1)I suggest that you find out about the suitability of using an attic air handler and current ductwork. You may need to under cut the doors about 1 inch to allow for return air. While my home is not as old as your, it does have radiators for heat, and plaster walls and stone foundation. Our main return air is in the ceiling in the upstairs hall and is about 24x36, and unit is above in the attic....See MoreFloor joists for 2nd Floor Addition
Comments (12)Since it sounds like the engineering work has been done to ensure that the addition will have the necessary support on the first level & in the basement I guess there are a couple of ways to think about this. 500 sq ft of sheetrock would be about 20 sheets (factoring in waste). Sheetrock would cost about $10/sheet & then assume $25/sheet to hang & finish. That amounts to about $700 not including the new ceiling texture or replacing any crown moulding, etc. So maybe the engineer is thinking in the scheme of things what's $700. However, from the sound of it busdriver's suggestion seems totally feasible. Since the roof is being taken out I don't see any issue with running the I-joists from front of house top-plate to the back of house top-plate (again assuming the I-joists are sized for that & the support underneath is sufficient). Since you have that middle wall running perpendicular that means the I-beams are only spanning 15'. I'm not sure why I-beams are required as 2X12's (SYP #2) on 16" centers easily meet the 15' span) so you may want to inquire about that. Personally, I like the I-beams but if this is being done on a strict budget you might save a few bucks that way. I would not sister (make a connection) the I-beams to the 1st floors 2X6 ceiling joists. I would keep them isolated so as to keep the 2nd floor addition forces (live & dead loads) away from the 1st floor ceiling. Sounds like TOH ran another plate around the perimeter & where internal load bearing walls were & then placed the 2nd floor joists on top of that. I would think you could install (lifter plates for lack of a better word) which would be 2x4s 22.5" long installed on top of the top plates between the 1st floor ceiling joists and the I-joists would sit 1.5" above the sheetrock thus isolating the forces on those from the 1st floor ceiling sheetrock. You would need to make sure that would pass code....See MorePicture Window - 2nd floor
Comments (1)There are, for rent, hand crank lifts. You'll need a couple of people to help....See MoreShould I have 1st floor crown molding and 2nd floor nothing
Comments (19)36+18+42= 96 inches. That is at 8 feet. What crown are you putting that closes the gap on a 9 foot ceiling? Or just "helps" to close the gap. The standards regarding crown vary quite a bit regionally and at different price points. It was not even a discussion on my last 2 builds - it was assumed to be in every room. But budget matters and region and style. Unfortunately, we don't know any of yours. Ok, you mention "modern" but I can tell you that what that word means to you isn't the same that it means to me. Nothing personal - it just may not be as descriptive as we hope. To me, a modern does not have crown or baseboard for that matter. But - easy to add later. In my market, you would pay a trim guy and then a painter behind him whereas during a build, the painter is there already (not extra trips). Your trim guy will charge about twice as much as the builder pays and the painter about 5 times as much. Your builder charges 150% markup perhaps. So it is basically a wash. You get to spend the money and make the decision later. But then there is the mess and noise in your house. Are your ceilings 8 feet upstairs? That would make a difference....See Moremary8153
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