I can't get my HONDA LAWN MOWER (HRM 215) to turn OFF
Comments (38)
itzbinnice
8 years agotele gram
8 years agoRelated Discussions
How to Fix Honda HRM215 Lawn Mower
Comments (12)I just "inherited" a Honda HRM215SXA lawn mower which I am told runs great but has transmission issues. I am somewhat of a "shade-tree mechanic" and I would like to fix this thing myself. Does anyone know where I might find a parts list with corresponding part numbers? I downloaded an Owners Manual, but that does not contain a parts list or any exploded views. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I own one of these and was having problems with the self-propelled skipping-jumping in and out of gear. It was the cable adjustment at the top near the handle. Start with that, if it will not move (and it's the harmony model) check that the drive belt is on the thing and not broken. Transmissions on these are pretty durable. Usually cable adjustment or belt....See MoreHonda Harmony HRM 215 - Removing the14 mm Roto-Stop Assembly Bolt
Comments (6)Not sure if this mower is any different than my trimmer but when I replaced the pull start spring on it I needed to stop the clutch from spinning in order to remove a part that was in place prior to it to get to the spring. All I had to do was stop the piston from moving up and down to 'lock' the reciprocating parts in place. To do this I took off the spark plug then put 1/4" nylon hose in the combustion chamber till I could no longer force any more into the spark plug home. This effectively bound the rotating assembly and allowed me to remove the party easily. So as long as this mower is like pretty much all other single cylinder lawn equipment, that should do the trick. PS- don't be afraid of damaging internal parts using tid method. If the puny parts that made up my trimmer withstood this practice, I'm sure a Honda can bear it too. Also if you have no nylon rope, just make sure to use a rope that doesn't have tiny strings that easily come off of it (twine). All though honestly if done debris was kept behind I believe it would just combust with the first stroke and maybe give a bit of a hint of smoke out of the muffler. HTH....See MoreResurrect, or start over? Honda HRM215 (old) or new 21" push?
Comments (7)@ bluemower - Thanks very much for reply! Absolutely would be easier to decide on this, if I had better knowledge of the old mower's "ailments" :). The challenge is finding a person/shop local to me who knows Hondas and is willing to honestly assess the condition of my mower for the problems you listed above. Some big shops in my area don't have the best reputation with customers. They tend to push sales of the equipment they carry, rather than stand behind decent repair service. Contacted a few smaller places I found via Internet searches today, which say they can service any mower make/model. I'm asking directly whether they can repair/rebuild older Hondas. Hope #1 is for the HRM215 to be repaired at affordable cost - and before the front yard becomes a meadow. :-) I do agree with what you said, that the old mower is several notches in quality above most of the basic push mowers available. Decision-making is tough since I really want to avoid being "penny-wise and pound-foolish" and end up with a new mower which turns out to be a throw-away in a few years' time. However, we've only had two mowers since 1987 (a Craftsman and then the Honda), so I don't have any experience on how quality's changed among the different brands. Labor outsourcing, materials used, all those things have been impacted while the companies chase profit margins... If a new TB130 or 7021P would run me $250-$300 before tax, what's the prudent "break point" on repair costs for the Honda to where you'd say, go buy a newer mower? If the repair expense tipped the decision, what push mower would you steer me toward? Is there a middle price range that significantly pops up the quality, or is there a lot of hype in the mix? I know residential-grade mowers lack the sturdiness of their commercial "big brothers", but perhaps there's a brand or two which has more consistency throughout its product lines? I'd be grateful hearing whether there are particular features that you'd swear by paying more $$ for, which help performance or life-span of the equipment, vs. optional stuff that creates more maintenance hassles than it's worth....See MoreHRM215 carburetor questions
Comments (4)(noticed that my cut-and-paste editing of the message draft ended up skipping 'Q3' - sorry! - but never mind for now) - He got the mower to start, although couldn't get carb off because of not knowing how to undo the linkages without breaking or bending something. The carb is held in position on two long bolts going into the head, and he didn't see a way to rotate the carb to slip them off, even with the fuel line unclipped/off. So he just blew carb cleaner through everything he could access and started it with some Seafoam to clean it out. But it doesn't want to hold the idle at low speed (wants to sputter and stall). Maybe a jet is clogged after all. Of greater concern: We could see where the oil leak was, seemingly from the gasket where the crankcase seats onto the flared section he said was the sump housing. We'd spotted some oil dribbling along the general area when the mower had been tilted onto its side, and he tightened the crankcase bolts found to be loose underneath (from the bottom side of the deck), hoping the gasket would seat better. But it doesn't - the oil just poured out when he had it revved high, directly under where the cylinder head joins the crankcase. He said when the mobile mower tech comes, to have the compression tested. If it's low, he didn't think it was worth the $$ to tear down the engine and start replacing parts. I would be really grateful for anyone who's done work on Honda engines to say whether keeping this mower going is better than buying something new on the market. I like the way it mulches, the plastic deck is still in good shape, and if quality replacement parts could be gotten (Plano Power Equipment seems to be a good supplier), it might be a better mower with "refreshed" parts than what I could buy new today. But what kind of labor am I looking at for engine work? Gasket replacement doesn't appear to be expensive parts-wise (for either the crankcase or head gaskets) but time spent to pull apart - ??? I have no idea how long it takes to take apart and re-assemble a lawn mower, by someone who knows what they're doing, of course....See Moretele gram
8 years agoitzbinnice
8 years agotele gram
8 years agoawesome. You are the best. I will attempt to clean the carb again, drain the tank and add a stablizer to the new gas and see what happens.
As for the shut off thing, I removed the top cover and exposed the grounding wire and it seems to be in solid connection, except if there is something that I am not seeing. I took couple of pictures showing the throttle in fast throttle, choke, and stop. My untrained eyes shows things are normal, but what do I know. pics attached below: first pic shows it in STOP, second is half choke, 3rd is FAST, 4th is the grounding from top, and last is just the ground
itzbinnice
8 years agotele gram
8 years ago
mdstamen
8 years agotele gram
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotele gram
8 years agohey, I think the thing circled in this picture is the gas shutoff valve. its a picture when I pulled the stop throttle to STOP position. Please note that the engine was not running at the time. Does it look like the piston is inside all the valve all the way? It looks like something that at some point was able to make it to the green arrow. And, if that's the case, would that make it not stop? The other thing I noticed is that when the throttle is at the turtle(slow) or when I change the throttle position from choke to slow while the engine is running, I do not notice any change in speed or sound of the engine showing any impact of my action. A picture is attached. I am going to upload a video next once I put a new pull start in to start it.
mdstamen
8 years agotele gram
8 years agobobkel
8 years agotele gram
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agotele gram
8 years agotele gram
8 years agotele gram
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agotele gram
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agotele gram
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMdstamen, I think the spring and the grounding wire that comes from the coil are the only two things connected to it. I have labeled them 1 and 2. Please see the attached pic below.
So, I think what I am calling the grounding wire is the switch (#2 circle)? If this is the case, it looks like the switch is actually glued into that plate with no moving part or parts on the other side.The three springs you see below #1 and the things they are connected to are pretty much the only things that are moving. I can also add that the lever that the spring #1 is connected moves when I throw the gear to STOP or in choke. As you can see that's why the spring is stretched when in choke and It contracts when the throttle is in STOP. Please not that that this was while the engine was not running. I don't know, if it makes much difference when engine is running.
mdstamen
8 years agotele gram
8 years agotele gram
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agotele gram
8 years agocjtibbles
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agocjtibbles
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agossewalk1
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agossewalk1
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agocjtibbles
5 years ago
cjtibbles