We found it helpful when considering this choice to think about the color of the lighting. Fluorescents are "cold," and will not show the true color of your countertop or backsplash. That may not be important to you, but if you're installing $$$ granite or quartz, please spend the extra money on LEDs so you can enjoy your beautiful surfaces and appreciate their true colors. We chose Kichler LEDs for our kitchen and put fluorescents in the DR (because we don't spend a lot of time in there). Our LED UCLs are now failing (18 months after installation) and our lighting provider has agreed to provide replacement fixtures (but not installation) for free. I'm more than a little annoyed, but still love my LED UCLs.

To follow up, the Juno lights as installed look good so far (although my kitchen is flooded with natural light right now, so I won't know for sure until it's dark out) - I took a chance but I love that there's an off/switch on each of the 3 bars (2 24's and 1 12) on the left hand side and a dimmer dial on the right, plus the on/off switch on the wall for all 3 (which are connected), so we can very much customize the amount of light is on and off each time we turn the switch on and off on the wall. or we can leave the wall switch on and use the on-bar controls. It's a lot more versatility than any other LED light that I've seen. And when on full blast the lights are pretty bright, and when dimmed they are pretty dim, so far. What I might do to get around the problem of having reflections on the shiny (Zodiaq cloud white) countertop, is use the stick-on diffusers provided with the environmental lights package, and put those on the Junos and not return them to environmental lights. One thing re environmental lights - they know their stuff, were VERY helpful and I'd love to work with them. I just prefer a dimmer dial. And Juno's customer service is not 24/7 like some electrical support shops - it's just M-F, which I didn't like as much. And the dimmer-dial LEDs we used aren't even on its website, for whatever reason. I tried to call its customer service line today to ask why they aren't on the website and make sure they still support them before deciding which to install - but they aren't available today (a Sunday). For what it's worth, the Juno bars we installed have a 5 year warranty and the environmental lights have a 3 year warranty. I'm not sure why the difference and it wasn't a big factor in deciding, but worthy of note.

With switches like the Lutron Caseta, RadioRA2, Leviton LevNet you can have all the main controls in a central cluster and a wireless remote switch or switches. As for the light being too short, you could use different lengths of the same bar joined together. An example would be the Philips eW profile eW Profile product description

The lights I am looking at are environmental lighting modular ultra thin LED undercabinet lights. https://www.environmentallights.com/15272-mod-t-sw20.html They say they have easy plug and play technology but also indicate that they have a Low Voltage Connector Cord, Male-to-Bare Wires for hardwiring. https://www.environmentallights.com/15301-mod-cord-b-78.html Here's my kitchen. You can see white wires that come out of the wall for undercabinet lights. These are all on the same switch. Can these modular lights be wired to the white wiring using the bare wire low voltage connector cord and then controlled from the wall switch? Or are there other products that are needed to make this all work. I've read things about transformers and drivers. Can anyone explain the basics to me. You have the undercabinet LED fixture. The wire comes from the fixture and connects to what? A transformer? A driver? A special power supply box?