help with first time tomato grower??

9 years ago

(xpost from Tom disease pest which seems far less active than this forum).

My plant looks healthy except for these lesions. Not sure what's causing them, and other pictures posted that look similar have yet to be diagnosed. Ideas? Should I be concerned with the lower branches so close to the soil?

I've been watering about twice a week, but only when the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry. Drip irrigation, with a half dose of Fish Emulsion Fertilizer twice a month. Located in Berkeley, CA and the weather has been mostly dry ranging from 45 nightly lows to 80 highs.

I'm pretty new to gardening, so recommendations for action and products would be greatly appreciated.

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Comments (5)

User
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I'm far FAR from being an expert but I think your tomato plant looks pretty good. My tomatoes always have leaf spots and they tend to grow out of the problems as the weather warms.. Your watering and fertilizing sound fine. You could remove the affected leaves if there aren't too many and then watch and see if it show up on other leaves. Yes, I have heard it is a good idea to remove the bottom leaves if they are touching the ground as that is how a lot of diseases get on the plant. I do it and it seems like a good idea. I see you have some type of watering system, make sure water is not getting on the leaves.
runic112 thanked User
edweather USDA 9a, HZ 9, Sunset 28
9 years ago
I agree your plants look good. My only thought is that they might overwhelm those small cages if they get to any decent size.
runic112 thanked edweather USDA 9a, HZ 9, Sunset 28
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Like MTO, I am not a container expert by any means, but I have grown some plants in containers, so here is some additoinal information: Container plants will need watering more often than tomatoes in the ground, probably daily or more often in times of high temperatures. Dig down with your finger about 3-4", is the growing medium wet, dry, or just right? If it is wet, don't water, if dry then water. If it is just right, check again the next day. If the medium is very dry, normal watering may have no effect on it, the water will just run off the top and down the sides of the container then out the drainage hole(s). In that case a slower delivery method is needed to allow the growing medium to absorb the water. That is the principle behind those glass watering globes you see advertised. You can slow the delivery down by taking a large plastic container (a gallon milk jug, or even a 2-liter bottle, you'd just have to repeat more with a smaller container) and make a very small hole in the bottom so that it just drips and place it in your planter and fill it up. Repeat as needed until the growing medium is thoroughly moistened throughout the container. Mulching the top of your container with compost, straw, hay, rotted leaves, grass clippings, even shredded paper or sheets of paper or cardboard helps maintain a consistent moisture level. Plants that are grown in any kind of container will need feeding more often than plants that are grown in the ground because each time they are watered, the water run off carries away vital nutrients. Many container growers will use a dilute solution of a liquid fertilizer every week or two depending on the condition of the plant. You can get more information on growing in containers over in the container forum. Betsy Here is a link that might be useful: Container Gardening Forum
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Jeff: I didn't mean to criticize you for deleting the post, I meant to complain about how the Houz version of the site is different from the old Garden Web. In answer to your question about what happens next, it takes about 6-8 weeks from the time a flower forms until it becomes a ripe fruit under ideal garden conditions. It's not unusual for the first flowers that form to fall off without forming fruits. Early girls can ripen a little sooner than beefsteak type tomatoes. Also, I would encourage you to stop worrying about a few bugs. Ants and grasshoppers won't hurt your plants, but too much hot sauce or dish liquid might hurt them. As someone said earlier, you're more likely to have problems with diseases than insects, and home made insecticides can make your plants more likely to get diseases by damaging the leaves.
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Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
9 years ago
I also say that I don't think your plants are diseased.
Those so-called "lesions" often are seen on older lower leaves..
I would just go ahead and remove them, as unhealthy plant parts attract diseases. JMO

Sey
runic112 thanked Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
digdirt2
9 years ago
Looks like mite damage to me when you enlarge the pic. Strip off the damaged leaves and dispose away from the garden. Check the undersides of new grow for any signs of tiny mites - might need a magnifying glass to see. If none discovered just monitor the plants for another week or so. If any signs spray with one of the several miticides available.

Dave
runic112 thanked digdirt2
runic112
Original Author
9 years ago
Thanks for the reassuring responses everyone. I'm relieved I don't have to go to drastic measures this early in the season. I'll check for the mites and keep an eye on it.

@edweather I got these cages for free, and as this was my first season gardening I already had plenty of expenses getting the beds up and running. First thing on the list for next season is a roll of wire to make some much larger cages. I'm hoping with some constant pruning of suckers going forward I can make these guys work.

Thanks again, and I'll update in a week with results.

help with first time tomato grower??

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edweather USDA 9a, HZ 9, Sunset 28

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help with first time tomato grower??

Comments (5)

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edweather USDA 9a, HZ 9, Sunset 28

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