I plan to cane prune mine as I have everything other table grape. I think anything will work cane pruned but some things don't work well spur pruned. My understanding is that spur pruning is popular because it is easier and cheaper and for some things you don't even need a trellis. If you are started as a T on a trellis you could do either this winter. You could try cane the first year and spur the next. See which you like.

Sorry to hear about your blueberry issues. I have not heard of phomopsis on blueberries. They are usually quite disease resistant. I'm no expert in this disease, but if it was me, and take my advice for what it is, I'd prune all affected branches, even if it means cutting all to the ground. Blueberries will regrow, and cutting to the ground is often recommended for old overgrown blueberries. Downside of course is that harvest will be delayed for a couple of years when it has to regrow from scratch. Once you get rid of all the diseased branches, spray sulphur fungicide prior to rain to avoid reinfection. It may take awhile to recover from this. I'm glad it's not me. In my experience, it's usually not worth trying to save diseased branches of most plants. If there are experts around familiar with this fungi on blueberries, I'd like to hear from them. There may not be many.

I am growing seedless table grapes in zone 4b/a. My plants are in 50 foot rows planted 8 feet apart, 5 plants per row. The trellis is a Geneva double curtain (2 parallel wires, 4 feet apart @ 6 feet from the ground). Rows run North – South. Due to the cold I am growing multiple trunks to have backups in case of winter kill. I have the following questions: 1) Is there a benefit to having a fewer number of trunks in that energy more easily reaches roots? Eg. 2 trunks with 1 or 2 canes each. 4 trunks with 1 cane each. 2) Is it better to have fewer long canes or more shorter canes? Eg. 2 canes, 8 feet long each or 4 canes, 4 feet long each? Total cane lenght each (mature) plant of 16 feet. 3) General advice it to trim trunk at top wire and in next year grow a cane from trunk along top wire and then either cane or spur prune. Right now my trunk has grown up to top wire AND 8 feet along the top wire. Why can’t I just leave the whole thing as one long trunk as opposed to trimming and growing a cane to replace the potion of trunk I cut off. Something to do with the canes fruiting better right? I am going to experiment with different growing options and cane vs spur pruning. Given that I have multiple trunks I will probably try both cane and spur pruning for each plant as well as laying down the trunk vs leaving trunk exposed during winter. Now onto my training questions. I have several options. As metioned it is a Geneva double curtain running north-south with a east wire and a west wire. Option A) 1 trunk growing up to east wire and growing cane 8 feet north with other trunk growing up to east wire and growing cane 8 feet south. I would alternate plants, eg the next plant in the row will grow on the west wire. Option B) 1 trunk growing up to east wire and growing cane 4 feet north with 2nd trunk growing up to east wire and growing cane 4 feet south. 3rd trunk growing up to west wire and growing cane 4 feet north with 4th trunk growing up to west wire and growing cane 4 feet south. Option C) 1 trunk growing up to east wire with 4 foot canes growing north AND south. 1 trunk growing up to west wire with 4 foot canes growing north AND south. What do you think?

I have been plagued by Phomopsis on my 3 year old Concord grape vines. In the past, I used captan after the phomopsis presented itself in late spring. However, I want to use a dormant spray to try to knock this out before spring arrives. What do you recommend? Thanks...