Wow lots of interesting stuff here! I think there are multiple issues here, and, since the health of the plants isn't great, I would deal with all possible problems rather than hunt down one specific one. If it were me I would do the following, since doing them would fix any of the most likely problems that you may be having. I would change the mix to a free draining one. I would check the roots, and pot into a container that is only a little larger than the rootball. I would put them in a partially sunny position after the repot until they get used to their new mix and pot. I would then move to a sunny location once things started to settle. I would make sure the room had plenty of humidity with gravel trays or a humidity. I would make sure the room was warm, and provide bottom heat to the pots if possible. I would inspect for bugs. Mites and scale seem the most prolific - possibly mites in your case. Webbing is a telltale sign, and sometimes hard to spot, but not always present. I would treat with Toni's spray regardless (she can tell you the ingredients, or you can search previous posts.) If you do spot bugs, use Toni's spray or a suitable one for fruiting plants from a garden centre. I would water these (after the repot) only when the new medium was closer to dry than damp. In a new medium you won't have to worry so much over watering - if it is the right medium it is unlikely you will overwater unless you go nuts with it. Fertilize only very lightly until the tree is back to health, then feed with a high nitrogen feed every couple of weeks. Citrus bounce back, but they take time. These are not by any means the be all and end all of things you should do, they are merely what I personally would do :) Danny

hermustangs, if you'll read the "new to GW" thread below on this page (or if it's left this page by the time you read this, search for it) you'll find explicit instructions on how to post photos; very easy to do. I think you'll get many more responses if you include photos. I'm not good enough with colors personally to try to answer your questions without seeing the rooms. Good luck!

And now for something completely different. :-) (not to scale) Here's what I did. Since you want to keep the sight line from the front door to the fireplace, I removed the peninsula lay-out in favor of a galley-style lay-out, shifted the hall door way a bit over, enlarged it and centered it on the front door. This additional bit of wall to the right gives your wall oven column a safety buffer, too. (You can add a coat closet to the left of the doorway, facing the hallway to the right. Or you could purchase an armoire, perhaps more in keeping with your home's vibe.) Some people aren't keen on seeing the sink (and quite possibly dirty dishes) from the front door but you already have that view in your current and proposed lay-outs so I assume it must not be a concern of yours. You could, if you wish, install glass double pocket doors at the hallway entrance like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/druid-hills-master-bedroom-remodel-traditional-bedroom-atlanta-phvw-vp~76261) [Traditional Bedroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bedroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_715~s_2107) by Atlanta Architects & Designers Soorikian Architecture I incorporated the seldom used closet into the kitchen, creating a gigantic pantry with additional storage space for other items. This also allowed me to set the full size fridge back so it mimics a counter-depth model. The pantry doors would work something like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/farinelli-construction-inc-traditional-kitchen-phvw-vp~622305) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Mechanicsburg Design-Build Firms Farinelli Construction Inc Or this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/teri-turan-traditional-kitchen-atlanta-phvw-vp~216308) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Tyrone Kitchen & Bath Designers Teri Turan One wall of the galley holds the pantry, recessed fridge, 36" cook top and wall oven/Advantium column (I saw your other thread) with plenty of counter space for prep and small appliance use. I calculated counter and overhang depth at 25.5" (24" deep cabs, 1.5" counter overhang). The island is huge, admittedly, but it had to be in order to hold the DW, 36" sink cab, 18" trash pull-out and counter seating for 2. I angled the very end of the island across from the fridge so that there would still be plenty of room to move past the fridge even when the door was open. The island is 30" deep - 27" cabs with 3" counter overhang total (1.5" on each side) to provide a bit more clearance between back of faucet and counter edge. If you can't afford to do custom depth cabs, do 24" deep cabs and add shallow storage to the back like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/wood-and-color-kitchen-traditional-kitchen-phvw-vp~45952) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Other Metro Interior Designers & Decorators Polly Blair or this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/utensil-rack-traditional-kitchen-chicago-phvw-vp~44160) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Glen Ellyn Kitchen & Bath Remodelers The Kitchen Studio of Glen Ellyn I also removed the half wall between kitchen and stairway. You don't have to do this - there is sufficient aisle between island and wall - but I thought that widening the hallway doorway and the stairway doorway would encourage people to walk to the left of the island and not through your kitchen work zone. NKBA recommends 44" aisles behind seating but 1.5" shouldn't make a huge difference, IMO. However, if you want a bit more aisle on this side, you could steal that 1.5" from your work aisle. A tighter work aisle will encourage people to walk to the left of the island but you need to make sure it will work for you and not make you feel cramped (NKBA recommends 42" aisles for 1 cook kitchens, 48" for 2 cooks but many here go with slightly narrower aisles and have no issues with that set-up). Or you could go with 24" deep cabs and 3" total overhang for the island. There is a bit of flexibility in this plan. You'll notice that there are no corner cabinets in this plan. That will save you some money - corner cabinet systems are expensive - which will help you stretch your kitchen remodeling dollars. Anyhoo, this is what my brain envisioned when I looked at your first floor lay-out.

I don't, but if you click on the link that says "More Info" below the photo, you'll see which pro posted it on Houzz. You could then message them to ask whether they still have the color/brand on file. I would bet money that the Benjamin Moore store could find you a sage green in their Historic Color palette that is very similar.