Blank slate - need help with a color scheme.
Justin James
9 years ago
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redtartan
9 years agoJustin James
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Need serious help! Blank slate large backyard
Comments (4)Basically, are you just wanting to know where to plant all this stuff that you already bought? I suggest that you open the photo of you lot in Microsoft Paint and enlarge it some. (Actually, with the way GardenWeb does photos, we don't know what's its real size is. Maybe it's fine, but here, it looks tiny. view it at 100% in Paint and if you think it needs to be larger, you can "resize" it by %. Experiment. Do a "save as" in case you don't like what you produce and wish to start over.) Then you might use one of the paintbrush tools to plot in where you think you want to plant whatever. Just a dot is fine. (Research each plant--easy on Google--and decide what it could be. For example, the Burr Oak is a large shade tree. The red cedars are a large screen.) Just concoct something out of what you believe these things to be, scratch it out the best you can and post it here for feedback. You can mark trees with dots and label them with the text tool. (It only works when you are working on the drawing at the 100% scale. If you work on it at other sizes, the text tool is inoperable.) You can use the eraser tool to get rid of unwanted "junk" lines & marks on the drawing in order to clean it up a little. (for each drawing tool there is an adjustment scale to make it wider or narrower, so pick what works for you.)...See MoreBlank slate: Need help
Comments (45)I'll hold off on the detailed analysis until I work up one with a cooktop & wall oven - not until tomorrow, though. Quick Look: Perimeter counters, base cabinets, and upper cabinets are all 3" deeper than standard. 28.5"D counters, 27"D base cabs, and 15"D uppers. If you cannot get 27"D base cabinets, then pull the cabinets 3" out from the wall when they're installed. -- Sink run...gives you more space for the sink, faucet, and other fixtures and allows the upper cabinet to be 15"D and down to the counter without the loss of landing space in front of the Dish Hutch. Note that a Dish Hutch can be more of a traditional look, so if you don't like it, then the upper does not have to go down to the counter. (I'd still keep the deeper cabs & counter.) -- Range wall...helps make the Refrigerator look counter-depth. The refrigerator is also made to appear "built-in" by flanking it with finished end panels on the sides that are deep enough to cover the sides of the refrigerator and a full-depth cabinet above the refrigerator that's pulled out to line up with the front of the refrigerator carcass. The doors will still have to stick out past the counters & cabinets so they can be fully opened. Trash pullout in main Prep Zone in island but close to Cooking Zone and Cleanup Zone as well as the Prep Zone b/w the range and main sink. Pantry houses a large appliance garage along one wall with base cabinets below. The counter is 30" deep to allow for an 18"D appliance garage. If it doesn't need to be that deep, then you can reduce it. The base cabinets are also deeper, if possible - 28.5" or 27". Dish storage is in a 36" Dish Hutch (I think it's become my "signature" along with a plate rack when the sink is against the wall!) It's close to the DW for ease of unloading as well as very close to the seating island for ease of setting the table! The refrigerator is offset from the island so it's not blocking the island aisle and it's located so it's easily accessed from the Prep Zones, Cooking Zone, MW/Snack Center in the Pantry, the island seating, and the Great Room -- all without outsiders using the refrigerator getting underfoot of those prepping & cooking! Since it's only the 2 of you 90% of the time, I put in a 42-inch aisle b/w the range counters and the island. The aisle will be a couple of inches narrower in front of the range. If two of you are working, there are two Prep Zones, so you won't be in conflict with each other. Layout #1 -- Range and Table-style Island with seating for 6: . Layout #1 Zone Map:...See MoreNeed help on my living room. Blank Slate!
Comments (8)The French doors at the two ends of the room could be removed to make room. If you have to allow for them to open you'll have less space for the sectional. I would float it in front of the FP. You need a large piece of casegoods or a long console table and big art gallery opposite the fireplace as a visual counterbalance to it, and you need to leave walk space behind that wing of the sectional so both doorways can be accessed. Subtract depth of the casegoods (12-18" for a console, secretary or bookshelves) and the width of the walkway (36" or a bit less may work) and a small passage (18-24") between the sectional and the fireplace hearth so you can squeeze in from there. That should tell you what length the sectional can be. I estimate about 7 feet for the wing perpendicular to the FP and as much as 9 feet for the section facing the FP. If you can get a reversible chaise sofa you'll have more options. It won't be as large as a full sectional, but it will be more conversation friendly when you have guests because you can add a pair of chairs to the room. Gus Modern makes a nice apartment sized one....See MoreBlank slate office...need help/ideas please :)
Comments (4)Here's what I might try: Obtain a L-shaped desk with a right-hand return. Position the return along the window wall to the right of the window. The desk extends away from the window wall towards the closet (when sitting at the desk you look to your right to look out the window). Allow some space between the return and the adjacent walls to eliminate the impression that the furniture is jammed into the corner of the room. Check if the "cable box" can be mounted vertically. If so, attach a piece of painted wood to the window wall and hang the cable box on it. You don't want to set the cable box on the desk. Unless the computer is enormous, obtain a bracket and hang the computer underneath the return. Position the computer so you will not bump with your knees it when sitting at the return or desk, or switching between them. Attach cable guides to the underside of the desk and return to keep wires off the floor. Optionally attach a keyboard tray underneath the return. Obtain a table for the printer and position it under the window to avoid putting the printer on the desk. If the printer must go on the desk, put it in the corner near the window. If there's space, put some shelves along the wall between the window and the closet. If not, hang some shelves or cabinets over the return to the right of the window. Optionally change the closet door to a folding door so it doesn't project so much into the room. If there's space above the safe, attach some shelves or cabinets there. -- amateur...See MoreJustin James
9 years agoNothing Left to Say
9 years agoredtartan
9 years agoJustin James
9 years agoredtartan
9 years agoMtnRdRedux
9 years agoMagdalenaLee
9 years agoAnnie Deighnaugh
9 years agoianna
9 years agojlc712
9 years agozorroslw1
9 years ago
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