Jellyman: I forgot to mention that there is no apparent damage to any foliage or apples. The link below had some pictures that I just found of 2 types of leafhopper. They look very similar in their thoraxes and eyes but are not spot on. Currently, the aphids are dining on my peppers and tomatoes. I don't spray anything unless I know what it is and even then I wait to see if the population is on the up or downswing. Ladybugs usually do a good job of cleaning up aphids (albeit in a delayed fashion) in my vegetables. I do appreciate your comment and thank you. Here is a link that might be useful: UC Leafhopper nymphs photo

I'd ask for a recommendation from a experienced southern CA gardener - rather than a rampant hosta-phile from the Great White North. Some things just don't transplant well... With proper care (watering, maybe some shading, good site prep) you should be able to put that little Fig right in the ground. As no one else mentioned it: Maple species will have opposite arrangement of foliage, whereas your Fig should have alternate arrangement of simple leaves. Shape of the leaf should almost never be your first clue on plant ID.

I would leave it one more year. It may sucker and die on the top, but the new shoots will prosper. If these shoots come from above the graft they will be true to variety. If they come from below the graft they will be rootstock. Save one of them and graft whatever variety you may like. You could save more than one shoots and add a second variety if you chose. I have a couple of these. Multifruit trees. If your space is that limited it may not be worth fooling with, but I enjoy challenges like that. I'm young and have space. Maybe it will recover completely

Harry: My first concern would be to get it in the ground in a permanent place or if keeping it in a pot, you would have to go to a much larger pot soon. I am worried that if kept too long in that #3 container it will become so root bound that the tree will stunt out. Deal with the roots first then work on the shoots. As Calistoga suggested, you need to decide what form you want the tree to grow to. Growing with a central leader on a standard apple may give you an awfully tall tree that is very hard to prune,pick,spray. Years ago many growers of standard apples would vase prune (also called center prune) where they would pick out 3-4 lower lateral branches and then cut the main leader off at 4' in height. This would help to reduce the tree height when full grown. These days vase pruning is commonly done on peaches but not so much on apples because of all the dwarfing rootstocks available. I have apples on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks. Some are pruned central leader and some are vase pruned. In your case it depends on how tall you want your apple tree to grow to. Since standard apples are slow to bear and get so big, I would also take a tip from the modern method of tall spindle growing and tie down or put weights on any lateral branches that start growing too upright so that they are totally horizontal. I have done this on a few apple trees I grafted on a crabapple rootstock. It works! Laterals that I tied down to be totally horizontal by using a soft string and tying to a stake in the ground had fruit buds the following year. My goal on these was to get them into fruit bearing mode as soon as possible. Producing fruit will slow the growth rate down so the trees do not get so large. Glad to hear your son is interested in fruits! He is now a modern day Johnny Appleseed. Who knows? It could turn out to be a really good fruit. I know of a family whose grandfather did some hand pollinating on apples and saved the seed. He came up with a large very juicy apple variety that they have since grafted to replicate. It is now their "family variety" since both grandpa and dad have passed away. A true family heirloom. They named their apple 'Chin Dripper'.