I have 120 citrus in ground and 5 potted, 6 mango in ground, 3 lychee and 20 avocado in ground with an average age in ground of 2 years. I live in Miami. My trees are immaculately perfect. Trees range in size from 3.5 ft to 15 ft. For 2 years I struggled with fertilizers and micronutrients as each new disappointment arrived. eg yellow leaves, leaves with yellow veins and the reverse, defoliations, burnt tips or leaves etc, etc, etc. To make a long story short, the combination of 9-3-6 Foilage Pro without vinegar and Soar micronutrient sprays combined with Orocit agricultural oil to act as a spreader sticker and insect suffocater helped more then anything to get citrus perfection. If you are buying the FP I recommend greenhousemegastore as they sell a gallon for $40 the lowest price on the web. I called Dynagro to buy five 5 gallon containers and they wanted $250 each plus $157 postage for all 5. But a local company got it for me for $150 per 5 gallon container so you can figure what I now think about the manufacturer Dyna gro. Also, I experimented recently with vinegar to lower my ph because my watering water has a ph of 8.4 and I ended up causing some crazy burned spots in the center of some leaves so since I've had perfection without the vinegar I'm not going to use it again. A technique I have used since the beginning is that I surround my tree trunks with a round wall about 24 to 36 inches in diameter so that when I pour my water mixed with FP it does not spread out but goes straight down. Home depot has plastic edging that can be attached to each other and then stuck in the ground in a closed circle so the water and FP goes where you want it to go. I use 3 ozs of FP in 5 gallons of water and use 2.5 gallons on the smaller trees and 5 gallons on the larger trees. If it's the dry season I'll do this 1 X/ month. Rainy season 2 X/ month. Rain washes the nutrients out. And I spray every 3 weeks. Every leaf on every tree is perfect. This is the Home Depot edging I use: Home Gardener Borderline II 2 ft. Plastic Edging Model # 21005 Store SKU # 268035 No other fertilization is necessary. 9 of my citrus get very little light and with this technique they are thriving too. These trees are on my 1/2 acre lot along with my house so they are pretty close together.

Well, if you could post a photo, you would get a lot better advice; but short of that you have probably made some of the classic Meyer lemon errors. First, when you dramatically change the light conditions a Meyer will drop most, if not all its leaves, to replace them later with leaves better suited to the new light conditions. To move a Meyer from outside to inside without the leaf loss, you need to move it from full sun to partial sun for 2 weeks; then to full shade for 2 weeks; then indoors; reverse the process when putting it out in the Spring... and please DO put it out, if you can; you will be rewarded with a happy, healthy plant. Second, when you bring it indoors to a sunny window, the plant gets warm; but the roots generally stay cool; and citrus roots don't like to grow into cool soil... the solution is to put some sort of heater to warm the soil, or to put the plant a little further from the window. The thing to remember is first the roots grow; and then the leaves and branches.

Yes, for the existing damage, being waterlogged would be a likely culprit. Also the reason for not having roots near the bottom of the pot - root rot. However now that you've repotted - and its been awhile since you did that, right? Now your concern is that it isn't showing new growth. I'm not sure that it would under the current circumstances - but I'm not sure that's a problem yet. I'm surprised that the closet is only 65F even with 4 32W T8s in there! How are you measuring that temp? I get 85F easily under 4 32W T8 bulbs. I keep a fan running most of the time to keep the temps down. I think your light is sufficient for overwintering maintenance, but most likely insufficient to promote new growth. It also matters how close to the lights the plant is - I keep mine within an inch or two of the bulbs and will be adding lights hung vertically along the back now that they're getting bigger. With your setup, light penetration is probably not that great given the size of the tree. On the other hand, with so few leaves, I suppose there's not much to actually block it. But seriously, fluorescent light doesn't penetrate very far even in the absence of a lot of leaf coverage, so your 4 T8s are not, perhaps, as effective as one might think. What kind of critters are you trying to keep out of the plant - like pets? Cats or something? Because there is a problem with shutting it up in the closet like that, several actually. First is lack of air movement. Second is potential heat build-up from the 4 T8s. (BTW I'm assuming the closet is empty of clothes - right?) Third is humidity buildup. All of these can contribute to pest and disease problems over the long haul. I, too, have my lights set up in my closet - but I removed the closet doors and there is NO CLOTHING whatsoever in the closet. Just my wire shelves with the plants and lights. I keep an oscillating fan running most of the day. I've never bothered with a fan before but I was sort of shocked by how hot it can get under those fluorescents. They easily topped 100F when I first installed them. Now that we're on heat instead of AC, they can get up to the high 80s even though I have the vent closed in my room. So I would be surprised if its only 65F in that closet unless its on an outside wall with no/poor insulation? My advice is to remove the fruit, keep the lights as close to the plant as possible, get some air movement going - block the animals out with pressure mounted gates or something if that's an issue. Be patient, expect the plant to be pretty dormant for awhile. As long as it doesn't get any worse, that's something. If, after a few weeks, they're STILL not doing anything, you may just need more light. In the absence of other issues like over or underwatering, of course. I haven't had an indoor tree that size for decades - not since my mother "accidentally" killed my bonsai while I was at summer camp one year. So maybe my expectations are off. But given the recent trauma, and given the light levels you are currently able to provide, I'm not surprised the plant is in a holding pattern. Just an observation - after a disastrous experiment with half "cool" and half "warm" (so-called) several years ago, I ONLY use 6500k bulbs now. That year was the only year I've had seed starting failures, and the whole season was pretty much a dead loss. I have no idea what the old 40W T-12 bulbs were rated at, colorwise, but it seems to me they had to have been not very good - yet we routinely started everything and anything under T-12s for literally decades. They got hotter, too. So I wouldn't THINK that it would matter much what the "color temperature" is with the T8s, but apparently it does. My plants just seem to do better with only 6500k bulbs. You might consider swapping the 3500k bulbs out for more 6500k ... just food for thought.

Hi Mike, It has been outside since early August when i purchased it. The leaves were a darker green then, now they're on a lighter side ( I can see some yellow blotchy-ness) . I've brought it in two weeks ago (seems longer but its probably because I'm worried about it :) I have small pine bark mulch that i can use in addition with some garden lime. The leaves do not look like the ones on your trees! Yours are beautiful deep green! Tonight i'll get better pics to post on this thread, hopefully I'm over-reacting and its a part of my learning process on how to grow citrus. I am waiting to water and perhaps the color will change a bit once I'm able to water with some vinegar. I have been spraying with dyna-gro foliage as of late but to counter the low humidity I in the begging i used some dyna-gro bloom, sprayed it a few times. Maybe that helped the bud explosion. You cannot clearly see the buds coming up they're coming form every node! Here is one pic that i have of it closeup! Thank you for all your help! Adri z6a