Thanks! I am glad that other people agree about the gray. Bill, thank you especially for the specific suggestion - it gives me a starting point to ask about when I go back to the showroom. I can't believe but forgot to mention that we are also using rectangular strips - I think 4" x 12" of the darker color stone in the mix (the lagos) as a border around the perimeter of the floor. The reason for this is to tie the bathroom in from the adjoining hallway, which will have lagos on the floor. That is the reason why I wanted to have one wall with the mix, to carry the color up, instead of going all white. We already picked the grout for the lagos for the hallway, so I think that same color grout should be used on the perimeter lagos in the bathroom too. Is it weird to change grout colors like that on a floor? The brown grout we picked for the perimeter fades away in between the brown tiles, so I hope it will seem natural, especially as a carry-over from the next room.

I just came across this thread, and don't know if anyone is still reading, but wanted to write, because I just put up my backsplash (in a new white shaker style kitchen). Everyone who sold the white subways said to use white for the grout. But most people in Gardenweb were saying to use gray? I didn't end up buying at home depot, but a guy there said it best. He said that the "authentic" color of grout used with subway tiles at the beginning of the century was always white. I told him mine looked creamy to me, and he said "If the tile reads white, at all, when you look at them, use "bright white". When you see subway tiles in a movie and the grout looks gray, that is done to make them look very old and that the grout has gotten dirty/discolored after many years. He said it is was in the 1980's that gray or black grout started to be used with a white tile. The brick pattern doesn't dissapear with white grout. You can still see the brick pattern under lighting because the tiles aren't totally flat. It's a cleaner look with white and authentic to the early century rather than the 80's. The original subway tile did not have beveled edges. This allowed a smooth surface as opposed to the modern tile which really defines separation in the installation.

Kelly - I bought the matching caulk in the tile section. It's premixed "Simple Grout" from Home Depot and they have a set of matching caulks. I used "alabaster". I cut plastic drywall knives into notched adhesive spreaders to fit the skinny areas. I don't have a picture of them, but it was way easier than trying to use a trowel. Use painters tape to keep the tile adhesive off the counters. (see pic) Remove tape so it doesn't get stick in the dried adhesive, and dig excess out of the corners and from under the bottom row. Grout the tile, again using blue painters tape to keep the grout off the counters and off the tile and out of the corners and the bottom gap. Wipe the tile clean as specified to get the haze off it. Let it dry. For the caulking step: Use blue painters tape and tape off the countertop and the tile, leaving only the gap between tile and countertop open, and the gaps in the corners. Caulk carefully and remove tape before caulk dries. Then seal the grout to keep grease stains off it. Tape during the tile setting phase: Tile detail with spacers and tape. We carefully shimmed the counters to be equal heights, and declared the line to be officially "level" ... all funky cuts happened at the top where the cabinets make them invisible. The dark strip is a wood prop to keep tiles level where there is no counter. I added one row after the top part dried, behind the stove.

Hanks everyone! We still haven’t decided yet! Contractor hates us! It’s Bedrosian’s Classic 2.0 Bianco Carrara polished. The floor tile is their 2x2 mosaic in matte. The liner real Carrara marble chevrons. We did a sample board and the marble looks awful with all of the grays, but not sure about mixing white grout for the liner and gray grout for the field tile.