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Pressure tank water pump pressure switch cycles on and off...

9 years ago

Trying to find the "home location for the two nuts on the water pump pressure switch. Is there such a thing as the home location? I can get the pump to come on, but cant get it to shut off. The closest I get is that it trips off, but cycles back on rapidly. I can see the brass plate under the switch swinging and that's what is causing the pump to come back on. THe smaller #2 nut has a direct affect on this, but I've tightened it and loosened it fully, and don't seem to get it to just go off.

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Though your system may be different, the pressure in the air tank is usually set to around 32lbs when the system is 'not in use'. That is, when the tank is installed or when the system is depressurized (pump off, faucet open). The pressure switch has a high and low setting which should be something like 30psi and 60 psi. If the bladder in the tank has a leak, water may burble out of the air valve at the top when you measure the pressure.
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When there is more than one check valve on a system and the upstream check valve fails, when the pump shuts down water leaks out back to ground. If the leak is small, you will only notice the problem when the pump has been shut down long enough to form a vacuum in the line (because there is no way for air to enter the pipe). Then you get water hammer when the pump starts. Pull the pipe and replace the check valve.
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Check the lines to the switch and the switch itself for debris. Make sure the contacts are all clean and clear, not rusted or degraded, no insects living in the box, etc. It is possible you may need to just replace the switch. If you do replace it , get a Square D - no sense messing around with cheap garbage.
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Ok, but would the Cycle Sensor work reliably to protect from dry running without having a pressure tank? The water (gravity) pressure in the house is just about sufficient as it is. The pump is a 3 wire Franklin 1 hp. Thanks
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