As a professional contractor there are several factors when deciding on a stain and the process used. Before applying a new stain, the existing stain needs to be removed. If its the same type of stain with the same color and its completely run its course, (usually within 2-3 years) then you can just clean and re-apply over that existing stain. If your changing colors or type of stain, it needs to be completely removed. The best method for applying stain is the old fashion way, by brushing. I dont recommend rolling or spraying for three reasons. One, the prep time needed with taping off and covering areas etc. which can take several hours. Two, when rolling or spraying you have to back brush anyway so the labor time spent is just as long and three, it simply looks much better. Always try to stick with oil based semi-transparent stains. They are the easiest to remove and re-apply, they look the best and provide the best type of coverage for both UV and water protection. Finally, the best overall professional grade wood preservative or sealant is TWP. Comes in several colors, provides a lower VOC and applies like warm butter. The cleaning and prep process is more important than applying the stain itself so be sure you properly clean the wood with an oxygenated bleach (DO NOT USE CHLORINATED BLEACH). Its a powder form that can be easily mixed into a 5 gal. bucket of water. Spray on with a garden sprayer, let dwell about 15-20 minutes then rinse off at low pressure with a pressure washer (800-1000psi). Second step is to neutralize the cleaner with a wood brightener. Spray on with a garden spray, wait 5 min. then rinse off. You will be amazed that when you apply the brightener wood will literally lighten in front of your eyes. This brings the wood back to its natural PH and that is a critical step often missed. After you have rinsed (and be sure you rinse thoroughly) let dry for 48-72 hours then apply the stain. ONE COAT ONLY! Today's stains only need one coat applications especially oil based stains. Hope this helps...good luck with your project! Here is a link that might be useful: Professional Power Washing Contractor

Man if you think that sd stripper hurt there was a poster wanting to use md80 and a powerwasher on a celing. Speaking of md80 would normaly be the product to get that stuff off but not working upside down faceing the result. Sanding might be your way to go as well even though this sounds like a lot of work Im sure you have found out chem strip is not easy either.after sanding A MILD oxalic base brightner being very cearfull and wearing protection then a water rinse. This is usually something a pro would do decked out in moon garments and a breather unit. TWP is a build coat finish the differance in uv expousure will be less then the flood product and you will never have to remove it. J.

Our cedar railings were stained for the first time (when deck was built) two years ago. It's now time to restain (we live in Boston). We're using the same stain (BM Cedar Deck and Siding Stain). A few questions: Do we have to sand off ALL of the old stain before restaining, or can we just smooth it out? Also, once sanded, do we just wipe it down with a cloth before staining or wash the railings again? Finally, should we put on two coats? We don't have to do the decking, because the decking is Perfection composite decking. Thank you!

We will actually allow redwood to dry a month or so, but not for the reasons stated. I just feel, the drier the surface is, the better the penetration. There is no stain/sealer that will look like fresh redwood. The approximations are not even close. Basically your choices are on the brownish side or the orange/red side. I would suggest sampling on scraps of the same material. Don't rely on the sample sticks, which are not the same as your material. You will most likely have to clean and prep, as John says. Do not use a pressure washer. The redwood is too soft for anyone but the most experienced users.