i removed about 2 oz of oil to make sure it wasn't that stupid. dad didn't seem concerned about that saying it was an insignificant amount. difficult to get an accurate read on the oil level due to the stupid plastic dipstick design but it seems at the correct level. i probably should stick a screwdriver in it to get an accurate read, but like i said, it isn't over-filled oil. i know the symptoms of too much oil -- heavy black smoke and very erratic performance. this is a slight black smoke, excessive fuel consumption (rich burn, burning fuel 4 times faster than it should), slight erratic performance, and degraded rpm. new spark plug was installed and gapped to 0.76mm (factory gap was actually correct). removal of air filter was tested. it is a new air filter replaced 2-3 weeks ago and frequently dusted -- i also typically use a very porous 2ndary filter (similiar to the filling of a comforter) as well to keep larger stuff off the air filter. it isn't those things. i've used new gas from two different sources. i've thoroughly cleaned and checked the carb (needle valve was perfectly clean like brand new and functioning correctly with the floater, the bulb was perfectly clean like brand new except of course with clean gas in it), everything looks good, and really, there isn't much that could go wrong with the carb with everyday use, unless i was burning sand and sludge. i also examined and cleaned the breather and it looked in good condition. the breather was clean except for the expected oil and functioning perfectly. i'm really just asking for advice on what to expect for tearing down the engine, if there is anything special that i need to know. my dad thinks it ran hot with the choke getting stuck and not releasing fully. it is likely internal to the engine. hopefully, it is just a worn belt considering 500 hours (5-10 years of residential use) is about the life of a residential mower engine, but i may have to replace rings and hone the cylinders if it was because of the automatic choke release being used and not releasing even though the lever was fully released due to dirt build-up around the linkage for it. everything else was just fyi to give my review and experience with the craftsman mower and honda engine.

You could be right on the parts engine due to what else you've seen in regards to the oil and noises. However, if in fact what is happening is fuel is continuing to seep into the engine when sitting, once that is corrected- all may be fine. Here's what I would do. Verify that the fuel shut off valve actually works. Run up the machine, shut the valve off and when it dies- change the oil again. Refill with oil and for good measure just remove the spark plug and walk away to ensure the fuel has evaporated. Re install the plug, turn on the valve and crank it up. Now what do you have? Here's the way I see it. On occasion, you will find one of these that fuel slightly seeps past the float valve. This in itself could be giving you the symptoms you describe. If your test run as described above goes well, that is what has been happening. If not, I suppose that it is possible that enough wear is present, enough carbon is above the piston to make a difference etc.

Hey guys, I got some bad news to report on this 9hpVanguard engine. After I got it running right and put the console and switch panel back on, I tried starting it and stopping it repeatedly. I never ran it for more than a few minutes and not under any load to speak of (just spinning the snow thrower blades). All of a sudden I hear this metalic screeching and I shut her down...and following that, she is real hard to turn over, almost cant budge it with the rope pull start. Well it seems like I siezed her up - the 'autopsy' report is that on one occasion, I disassembled/reassembled the carb for a soak in cleaner. Well, on re-assembly, I put the float in upside down and this allowed gas to flood into the carb and overflow into the cylinder, down past the rings and into the sump with the oil. This gas in the oil, caused the oil to lose its lubricating properties and she frooze up. I started up a new thread on the diagnosis and rebuilding of the seized engine over on the tractor forum. I sure appreciate all your help and I am very disappointed that it came to this but I hpoe to turn it into a learning experience. Tim

Was the trimmer working fine then started to make life difficult kinda slowly? To each his own, but here's my take on this. First, change the plug. As far as priming, I push the bulb until I see fuel reach the carb through the hose, then I give it one more push...too much then you have too much fuel for a choke setting and have to work it out resulting in more pulls. If you are priming more than 5 times and there is no leak, you are likely going to flood it. Does the trimmer have a 3-step choke? This is similiar to most of the homeowner types found today. With the fresh plug, try to start in this manner then tell me how it's doing.... When cold, prime about 3-4 times..no more. Choke fully closed, full throttle, give it a few pulls until it starts to want to run. When it fires up..this is important, you may not be able to reach the choke to switch to the 2nd setting before it dies, that's o.k...if you do, well done, but if it dies, move to the 2nd position, full throttle, should fire right up and stumble from the choke..lots of smoke..yadda yadda but it will stay running. Once it's started in the 2nd position, you may ease off the throttle and blip it a few times to warm it up, after about 10-15 sec of this move the choke to full open and easily apply the throttle until its wide-open and stays running, return to idle, then WOT and if it responds quickly off you go. If the motor dies during the warm-up in the 2nd position, DON'T re-prime, whatever you do or you will flood it.....a very overlooked instance. This is also important... If it dies in the 2nd pos, you can pull the starter no more than 2 times and if it doesnt fire, close the choke fully again, NO PRIME and pull the cord and you won't need full throttle, just when it fires in closed pos, move to 2nd and blip the throttle, like when it was cold, then open the choke, you have to repeat all the steps if it dies before warm. This has worked on every two-stroke trimmer I have owned, a few chainsaws seem to run better when cold but the little trimmer motors need finesse. Nevermind what the owners manual says.....what are they thinking :) Also, give the trimmer a shake before you start it in case any oil may have settled but generally it stays in suspension. Good luck. Don't forget the plug.