Q about checking a contractor's references
daisychain01
9 years ago
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9 years agocyn427 (z. 7, N. VA)
9 years agoRelated Discussions
About to start my basement - vapor barrier and insulation Q's.
Comments (5)The most expensive but best insulating process is closed cell spray foam. For a large space, with ten foot ceilings it might be no more costly than board insulation. XPS is more labour intensive. For NYC, I'd use t&g 4'x8' x1" boards; if you can't find those, then use 2'x8'x1" t&g. Seal all the joints with building tape--Tuck and Tyvek and two popular brands. I've not used sealers, but a building writer whose information I've always found to be sound, swears by Drylok. (I assume this is not a rubble or brick foundation.) The advantage of steel framing is it's neater to put up (no sawdust) and there are no subsequent nail or screw pops. However, as it's sensitive to moisture, I'd have the baseplate resting on strips of XPS not only to create a thermal break but to keep it away from any minor floods that may occur. Since one inch of XPS is R 5, I always add high density fg batts, adding another R 15. No vapour barrier is necessary, though if this is a permit job, the inspector may insist on one. It wont' hurt anything. (See Building Science links in my first post.) After two years, a number of tiles cracked at pressure points on a brand new home I built. And that's with the tile on top of at least 10" of reinforced concrete and power tamped gravel. Since then, I figure it's a lot cheaper in the long run to use an uncoupling substrate such as Ditra. (If you dont', be sure to keep a lot of extra tiles just in case.) Ditra and cement add maybe 3/8" extra to the flooring height. NYC labour. My condolences!...See MoreQ. about Miele 4840 Washer?
Comments (34)Gordonr I am not comparing the W4840 with the 1215. I am comparing the 1215 6K 220V with the 3XXX 5.5k 110V. I posted a question in the Wiring Forum about the difference between 120V and 220V and why NA uses 120V and the rest of the world does not. A lot of technical discussion over there but here is the easiest answer to one of my questions: "Is 220V really more efficient than 120V?" "Yes. Given a certain amount of energy needed in watts, the higher the voltage, the lower the percentage voltage drop and the less the energy loss over the same size wire. That's why the power company can supply a whole neighborhood with two relatively small wires at 7200 volts (or more). The high voltage is potentially more dangerous, though, so it is transformed to a lower voltage for consumer use. It's amperage that determines the wire sizes needed and a 120V system has to transmit almost twice the current (amperage) as a 220v system delivering the same amount of energy (watts). Because ampacity-to-wiresize is basically a square function, the wire has to be roughly four times as large. Otherwise, severe voltage drop will occur over any appreciable distance and more energy will be lost to heat generation due to resistance."...See MoreWhy does contractor ask check by made payable in his name?
Comments (35)@Patrick Keohane - I have years of posting here to back up my claims and so the people on this forum can decide for themselves. Your example simply shows why you should not be commenting on this thread. My father owned a plumbing company with someone else's name on it. He first joined as a minority partner and later became the managing partner, the person whose name was on the company eventually left altogether. So let's use your example, as I am sure you are aware, LLC's are a durable business entity. Therefore, using your example, Billy's Bob can admit new members to the LLC at will. So Suppose Billy Bob has a cash shortage and offers his brother-in-law Willy Rob a 20% share of Billy Bob's Badass Remodeling, LLC. He is no longer a single member LLC but because it is a durable business entity, he typically doesn't have to file anything new (we might want to note that LLC's are State entities and not Federal so each state may have different rules but I am not aware of any State requiring a refiling when admitting a new member, so it doesn't matter what he writes under it). So now, Billy Bob isn't the sole owner of Billy Bob's Badass Remodelling, LLC. Now suppose Nancy signs a contract with Billy Bob's Badass Remodelling, LLC. to remodel her home, but she makes out checks to Billy Bob rather than the LLC. Willy Rob finds out about this and is upset because Billy Bob has not been giving him his share and goes to see his uncle who is an attorney. The uncle, realizing that Billy Bob is judgment proof, sues Nancy instead for breach of contract for not paying the company as she agreed to in the contract. Nancy is clearly in breach of contract and will have to pay, she, of course, can turn around and sue Billy Bob for his theft but we already noted Billy Bob is judgment proof. I can assure you that I am correct but you are likely not going to see that because you seem to believe that your relatively myopic experience with your two businesses gives you a complete picture. The reality is that you are not an expert on small businesses, you are an expert on your small business... and that in no way qualifies you to comment on business law. I believe you are making the point that if an employee/owner can accept cash, then that same employee/owner could accept a check that he converts to cash. While that seems perfectly logical it is not correct, checks are assignable financial instruments and cash is not. It really has to do with due care... a business is negligent in their duty if they let anyone accept cash, you are negligent in your duty if you assign a check to someone who is not authorized in the contract. ETA: I am not going to respond further to this thread. It was dead and buried before the resurrection and there is no reason to bring it back from the dead for this rant. I have thoroughly explained one of the reasons that you want to write checks to the contracted entity and that alone is enough to overcome your assertion. Meanwhile the only retort is ad hominem attacks. You have offered no rebuttal to any of my points just pretended that attacking my credibility is sufficient to ignore those points. My argument doesn't rely on credentials to be correct. So feel free to explain why I am wrong if you can....See Morequestions to ask contractor's references?
Comments (3)Your post indicates that the contractor was recommended by friends so you need to try to cut through that relationship and find out how the job really went for them. If the project didn't finish on time try to find out why. It's not unusual for a project to run long. More questions based on issues I've seen around this site and in my work: Did the contractor and crews disappear for a while without an explanation? Start a new project and drop the current one? Ask for accelerated draws or payments? Was it hard to get the last few details finished? Everyone has different levels of tolerance when it comes to defining a good job so it's really hard to go by what someone else says. You have to go on instinct as well. When you meet does the relationship work for you? The best way to make sure you get a good job is holding back 25% or more and not 10%/15% that is usually in the contract. Even otherwise good contractors are sometimes willing to let that amount go and walk away when the cost of finishing the project exceeds the final payment. You also need to "back load" your payments so the more they complete, the more they get paid. The contractor will try to get most of the money up front. If they need materials, ask for invoices or pay the supplier directly. Make sure they have enough to pay their subs, but don't just follow a set payment schedule. This is more work for you, but worth it to ensure a good project. If the contractor won't agree to those terms, find another....See MoreBethpen
9 years agodaisychain01
9 years agocyn427 (z. 7, N. VA)
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