If it is not overly complicated I can provide you material take off list from chief architect.

[my def flooring 11 7/8 + 3/4 I joist, 19.2" off center 17' spans]. Let me know if you want to use dimensional 2x10 x 12" x max span. (Normally supplier figures these out). I need to know how many inches house sites over terrain 12", 24", ect. and window sizes - W3060 etc.

It will give you an idea.

My advice...take your hand drawn plan to a professional and make sure everything will work the way you anticipate. If you want to post your drawing, we can all offer our input.

A professional can help you with materials, too. I don't know what experience you have with building....or if you just want to estimate building costs. But, you need to have a professional help you with a major project like this, unless you have vast personal experience.

Hope that helps :)

We sent our plans to several local lumberyards, they did a take-off list and prices for a bid, no cost.

Our house is pretty simple except the kitchen is different. The house is going to sit on a cement slab, 1st Floor is 682spft 2nd floor is 560spft. This is my first build and the only carpentry experience I have is cabinetry so all of this

"[my def flooring 11 7/8 + 3/4 I joist, 19.2" off center 17' spans]. Let me know if you want to use dimensional 2x10 x 12" x max span. (Normally supplier figures these out). I need to know how many inches house sites over terrain 12", 24", ect. and window sizes - W3060 etc."

Doesn't make much since to me. I do know the windows though: 3x48" 8x36" 4x24" we do not know the hight for all of them yet because we are going to be very savvy with this build so whatever hight we find with that width is what we'll use.

Here are the hand drawings of the house:

Oh and we don't have 4 kids btw, we are just having our first one. Thats just to see the max capacity

I will definitely try to get these to a professional. We live 5 hours from where we will be moving and won't be down there for a couple months so thats why I was just trying to get some online help in the mean time.

I built from my plans, so i dont know anything about working with a professional. but for me our local lumber yard did a material list and cost estimate for free and took about 2 weeks. They include things like lumber, doors, windows, and give allowances for things like electrical and cabinetry; so you will have a good rough cost. After that get your financing in order. take into account the added cost of a general and any contractors if you are going to use them. then you start building! I suggest you know your plan in-and-out and most of the materials you are using. Once you start building it goes really fast and you dont have much time for decisions.

Just looking it over quickly, if you are in an area that uses any building codes, the house won't be in compliance. Both the upstairs hallway and stairs are too narrow. You haven't included any wall thicknesses, either. By the time you subtract the wall thickness, and make a code minimum hallway, the bedrooms will be too narrow to fit a bed as shown and still walk past it. Typical interior walls come out to 4-1/2" thick; exterior walls will be that or more as a minimum. If you're in an area with no inspections and code enforcement, have at it. I do recommend that you do better drawings with the wall thickness factored in so you really know what you will end up with. You can download Sketch-Up for free and figure out how to do nice drawings with a little practice.

It looks like you are designing around standard building materials (multiples of 4') and that is good. You want to make it a little smaller all the way around so the panels will reach. For example, typical tongue and groove subflooring isn't 48", it's actually 47-1/2". Your 20' dimension will be 2-1/2" too big. I learned that the hard way building my barn, and wound up using 6 more sheets than i had planned. I think you should spend a bit more time on your drawings, and then take them to a lumber yard for a take-off, as others suggested.

Not remotely buildable or practical. Especially the kitchen. Angles waste space and create terrible inefficiency,and create expense.

The accuracy of any construction cost estimate depends on the quality and quantity of information available to the estimator. No offense, but your hand sketches are not yet at a point where they can be used to produce an accurate estimate. You will be well served to take your sketches to a residential designer, architect or design/build firm and have them produce 1/4" scale plans which, as others have noted, make efficient use of materials and are code-compliant.

ok, you guys hush. I made those so you can see your mistakes in [5min].

Your staircase either begins or end in the middle of the bath, no hvac, HW, or a second bath. Not sure where your house bearing support for second story should be (or are you thinking of using 20' spans running perpendicular?).

Enjoy

Have you even bought land? It's hard to design a house without knowing what you're designing for.

Wow guys just got home from work and it is great to see all of this input. I'll try to touch a little on each comment:

Neonweb2, thank you for letting me know about what a lumber company will do once I make some adjustments to my plans that will be the first place I will go!

MushCreek, I will be sure to check out Sketch Up, I can see that I wasn't thinking of the codes for hallways and stairs.. Do you know the measurements to be at code? I have been waiting for a call from someone in Jackson County about all the codes so I don't know any of the codes yet. Also thank you for letting me know about the beam lengths, I will add those adjustments!

Sophia Wheeler, why is this not buildable? How is it not practical. In the kitchen we weren't going for space effective we were going for a big bright circular kitchen and thats design is one that my wife and I both really enjoy. If it is not buildable as you say then we will have to change it up but I am curious why it is not??

Charles Ross Homes, no offense taken but thank you for the advice!

Brian S, You are awesome for making that lay out for me it really does help to see the mistakes. What software did you use for that?? And I will definitely work on fixing the stairway and hallway. It looks like I should just make it a little wider??

tcufrog, We do already have the land. It is 6 acres about 4 are already fenced in with a pregnant horse on it. the land is all very flat but the back right field has a 40x40 low spot that can fill up with water during high rains.

Kitchen: Think this through: The kitchen is the hardest working room in the house. It's the room where you're working, cleaning, trying to be efficient and fast -- and you're saying you care more about LOOKS than FUNCTION in this room, of all rooms? No, no, you really don't want this.

Why is the kitchen not functional? Angled cabinets are expensive, yet they provide less storage than standard cabinets. The island (which is too small to support 4 stools) is placed at such a way that it blocks comfortable access to the kitchen; the aisles on each side are too narrow. You have no work zones, so you'll be walking back and forth across the room constantly -- too many extra steps.

I see that you intended the kitchen to be the bright, shining jewel of this house ... but, really, it isn't. I suggest you ditch the idea of the SHAPE and focus on BRIGHT and FAKE the shape a bit. Keep the room square /rectangle, but angle your corners and go with LOTS of windows and no upper cabinets. Without uppers, you'll need to consider a modest-sized pantry too.

Other downstairs notes:

- Why set the dining room off with walls? You won't have space to move around the table comfortably, and in a house this size, you really need to consider going with open floorplan. I suggest that you go with an L-shaped banquette table in that corner. It'll take less space and everyone loves them.

- The stairs aren't working. I'd consider an L-shaped stair hugging the lower right corner ... then tuck the desk UNDER the stairs. This'll save space and look cute.

- The living room is sort of squished into the back end of the house ... and then you have empty space towards the front of the house. I'd consider going with a window seat (great space saver) and going with more of a rectangle shape for this room.

- Coat closet by the door? Storage for games, books, movies, and other things you want in the living area?

- The bathroom doesn't work in its present spot. I wonder if it could scoot over near the front door, providing a bit of a barrier between the entry room and the dining room.

- You need a back door somewhere. I'm pretty sure two exits are a standard "must have" for fire safety.

Upstairs:

- The kids rooms are too small, and I'm not in the camp of "kids need a full-sized suite!" If you're going to stick to something this small, consider giving the kids toddler beds once they're out of cribs ... then loft the beds when the kids are older. Note that the kids don't have dressers or desks in these rooms, and their closets are SMALL. Large closets make it possible for kids to keep their rooms clean. Getting larger closets for both of these rooms will be easy: For one room, steal space from the hallway -- you don't need a hallway going all the way to the end of the house for no reason. And the other room can get a good-sized closet using the space over the top of the stairs.

- Actually, all the bedrooms are too small. A twin bed is 75" long, a queen or king is 80" long, and that's just the mattress -- not the bedframe. So you'll have 18" at the foot of the bed, not enough room for those double doors to open. A tiny bedroom would have 3' at the foot of the bed -- a comfortable bedroom would have 5' at the foot of the bed.

- Size is a big issue throughout this plan. Start measuring things around your house -- it'll help you start to develop a sense of how big things realistically are. Sure, you could build your stairs 30" wide and allow only 18" to scoot around the island into the kitchen, but in the long run, you won't like it.

- On the subject of the master bedroom door, you probably don't want it to open straight across from one of the kids' bedrooms. As they get older, that'll be a privacy issue.

- The bathroom needs some work too, given that it's going to be shared by the whole family. It's not a bad size, but you have lots of wasted space in the middle of the bath ... and no storage at all. I'd try to go with a split bath: half bath for the parents' room, half bath for the kids from the hall, shared bath in the middle.

Wow, I'm the 'optimist' on this forum....and I think your plans are bad! Sorry, but they really are.

Have you tried eplans.com? They might be a good place to start. Here's a link...and a possible plan :)

You can delete garage and second story will work just fine. You could also rework kitchen and have big bay in breakfast room or move sink to that area. Just a few ideas...

http://www.eplans.com/house-plans/epl/hwepl68256.html?from=search

Again, roof lines could be simplified and porches would be optional....this is just a good place to start :)

You can usually look up building codes by state. Since Jackson County isn't much more specific than Main Street, you can start by familiarizing yourself with the International Residential Code.

You can start with Chapter 3 - Building Planning, but skip over 301 and anything of an engineering nature to start with, or you might get lost before you get to the stuff that will help most at this stage.

This is a good resource to fact check when people start mentioning "codes", as there are many misconceptions going around, such as the difference between a Means of Egress and Emergency Escape and Rescue Openings.

Just adding square footage to make things work doesn't really add much to the overall cost. It is the kitchen, bathrooms, plumbing, heating, and electrical that are the big expenses in a house (and strange shaped rooms, or a lot of changes in direction of the outside walls and complicated roof lines). Making the house 2' bigger each direction gives you another 100 square feet on each floor, but only takes 8 more feet of wall to get there, and the square footage cost of concrete and roofing is only a fraction of what the average of the whole house will be.

L-Lass, that's a nice plan.

ghjtyubnm, I took a stab at adjusting your plans. Here's the first floor. At 677 sf, it's still not large ... the kitchen is a rectangle, but you could still put in lots of windows and give the sunny, in-the-middle-of-everything feel without actually having an expensive, round room. Since you needed storage, I added a pantry under the switch-back stairs. This'll give you some decent space, and it's on the "right side" of the kitchen -- that is, you reach it before the work area. I put the sink /dishwasher on the longest kitchen leg, and you have prep space on each side of the sink area.

Note that the bathroom and the stairs give you some support in the middle of the house, and the walls are "stacked" for economy.

Yes, you can see the half bath from ... everywhere ... but when the whole downstairs is 677 sf, it's kind of unavoidable.

The built-in seating in the dining room will make it space-efficient, and the stairs still tuck it into a private space ... but you have more space to maneuver than you did in the too-small dining room. If you include plenty of windows, it'll look good. Now that I'm looking at it again, I think I might go with a straight bench instead of an L-bench. It might make movement a bit easier.

The living room is larger, and I moved the desk to the back /added a window seat (with storage underneath!)

. This gives you a place where someone can sit "away from the action", yet still be involved. And if you need to hold a small meeting, you can turn that living room chair around, and 4-5 people could comfortably talk in the office area.

I didn't label the coat closet by the door. I don't like that the doors will knock against one another, so I was thinking of leaving it open -- which would give you a drop spot for keys and a place perhaps for coat hooks instead of an actual closet.

And you'd have space for bookshelves under the stairs.

The kitchen side is 10', the stairs are 6', and the living room is 12'.

You do still need a place for mechanicals. Hopefully those could fit under the stair landing /at the back of the pantry. If you need upstairs mechanicals space, the linen closet could be used for that purpose.

Second floor:

The kids' bedrooms are still small at 10x10, but they are do-able, and when they're older you could bunk the beds. Each bedroom has a 5' closet, which is pretty minimal if two kids are sharing AND have no real storage in the rest of the room. Note that the closets provide a sound barrier between the two bedrooms.

The master bedroom isn't particularly spacious, but it's plenty big to hold a queen bed, and it has a walk-in closet with 5' of storage for each adult. After I drew this, I noticed that it could've been two reach-in closets flanking the walk to the bathroom, which would've been more like your original pix.

I expanded the bathroom pretty significantly, giving the kids a half bath AND the adults a half bath. The adults' bath is 1' wider, which means you 'll have a bit more storage in the vanity. And I added a small linen "nook" in the tub room. You'll need this for towels and other necessities. Concerns about this design: Doors getting in the way; I don't love pocket doors in a bathroom, but they might be the best option in this small space. And you have minimal space to hang towels; I'd go with hooks.

Note that the kids' half bath is stacked directly on top of the downstairs powder room. This'll be cheaper to build because all the walls are "stacked" and the plumbing is all consolidated into one general area.

I added a laundry closet. Can you believe none of us noticed that was missing? This isn't ideal since it can't vent directly to the outside. I started to place it in the end-of-the-hall linen closet, but I was trying to keep ALL the plumbing in the back wall for economy. Note that you could stack the washer/dryer to provide a place for "waiting loads"; this'd keep you from having piles of dirty clothes in a rather small upstairs hallway.

Note that the linen closet could be "turned" to be a second closet for either the master OR the front kid's bedroom -- this 'd be nice if you had two kids of the same gender sharing that room, while a third got a room to himself -- it'd mean that each kid would have a personal closet.

Or, if you don't think you need another closet, this could be a lovely little nook with an overstuffed chair and bookshelves. Or a window seat. This would allow natural light into the upper hallway.

I like that the MANY doors in this upstairs don't knock against one another.

Yes, the stairs appear minimal, but that's because you don't have space here for a dramatic, open staircase -- but it won't impair the function of the stairs.

At roughly 1300 sf, this drawing is a little larger than yours, but it works better. I think the biggest deal was drawing the stairs to the middle, which allows the nicer, outer areas to form the rooms. I suspect you could find better ready-made plans in this same size range.

Note that I didn't include any windows, and we're all ignoring the exterior, which is a mistake.